 For John Park's workshop, it is time. Thank you everyone for stopping by Randall Bone and Beata Graffa of Dahogan and Dave Odessa over in our YouTube chat. I said that because Randall said, here we go again. Indeed, what is going on over in our Discord? This is the place to check out if you're wondering where the chat is at. If you're over in Facebook, Twitch, one of these other lands that don't seem to have a chat going on, check out our Discord. It is at adafruit.it slash Discord. You can look for the live broadcast chat channel right there. Got lots of other channels, but this is usually where people are hanging out during the chat. So come on, during the live stream, I should say. So come on by. Who we got here? Hey, C Grover, BlitzCityDIY, Starman, Mike P, Thin Man, hello, hello. What good stuff do we have today? Yes, in fact, we have Watchwinder 2, Mechanical Boogaloo. Maybe it's Electromechanical Boogaloo. But we'll be looking at my refined design on the idea of a automatical Watchwinder for my watch here when I'm not wearing it for this type of watch. I will also have a fresh coupon code for you to get some savings in the store. I have, what do we call it? A product pick of the week recap. We've got a CircuitPython Parsec. I also will be diving into some of the design in LEGO Bricklink Studio for the CAD design of most of the project there for the Watchwinder. And I will take a little bit of a detour into an unsuccessful attempt to build a similar device to the Watchwinder that is meant to fool a step counter on a smartwatch. It didn't work, but I've learned a lot. And I have actually an idea of trying a different approach. Having learned what I've learned, so I'd like to share some of that with you. That should be the show. So that's what we've got. That's what should be happening to answer the question. That's the stuff I've got today. Todd says, Mechanical Boogaloo, good name for a craft work inspired funk band. Yeah. Covering craft work songs in a funk style. Let's go with this first. What's this? This is today's coupon code, Hourglass. And that's because it occurred to me while I was working on this, that I'm kind of turning the watch upside down and then writing it sort of like an Hourglass when you go to flip it. So that's our coupon code. That's my thoughts behind the coupon code. And that'll get you 10% off in the Adafruit store. So head right over here to Adafruit.com. Main page is the store page. You can click on such popular links as View All New Products or Products, Featured Products, View All. What's featured right now? We've got this Proto Doubler Pie Cowbell. Oh, those are out of stock. But if you go back to the new products, View All, you'll see we've got a couple of variations on that. So some of these are in stock. We've got these Terminal Pie Cowbells and a Terminal Pie Cowbell with a pre-soldered set of header sockets next to the main thing. That's pretty cool. Here's to these Doublers. Doublers are out of stock. Those are popular. Lots and lots of good stuff. And if you wanna throw some in your cart, if you're building a project and need some things, this is a good day to do it because Hourglass will get you 10% off in the store until midnight tonight, east coast time, roughly. So you can go throw things in your cart, look for that coupon code, field, type in Hourglass, and off you go and you should get 10% off. And that's good on things. That won't work for concepts. So no discount on the gift certificates, the subscriptions, the software, only on physical things. No conceptual discounts today. That's too metaphysical. There was a question over in or a statement over in the chat from Tyeth said, isn't a washing machine employed for quick accelerometer vibes? Yeah, it seems to really vary depending on the device. Which of these tricks work? I know, yeah, at some point, people were putting Fitbits in their dryers inside of a couple pairs of socks. Just trying to get them to give them their 10,000 steps wild. But I'll show you, yeah, I'll show you what I've learned, at least with this one. I think it can vary for some reasons. I'll discuss based on how sophisticated the sensor fusion is on the device itself. All right, well, what else? We have a show on Tuesdays that I like to do, which is JP's product pick of the week. I pick a thing. We put a big discount on it. I show you some demos. This week's was this very cool analog switch. Here's a little one minute recap that I have for you. Take away me from two days ago. It is a Stema Analog SPDT Switch Metro, and it is running over the Stema for power, ground, and signal to the analog switch board. And then I have this orange wire is one audio input. This white wire is a second audio input. And then the green is the output for the audio, whichever one I'm switching to. And that's all going into a little powered speaker. Both of those audio sources are running into the normally open, the normally closed switch. So here's every four seconds, the sound should switch. Switches to iPod, switches back to Mario there. Now make it a lot faster. So kind of like a little DJ fader is the Stema Analog SPDT Switch with the Max 4544 chip. Yeah, whoa, just looping there. I'm curious what people are gonna use those for. Please let me know. Let us know in the comments or over in our chat if you've gotten some of those analog switches, or if you ordered some, they're probably not there yet, but when you get them, what are you doing with them? What's your use for a solid state switch like that for signals? All right, next up, I have a circuit Python Parsec for you. Okay, so for the circuit Python Parsec today, I wanted to show you how you can use the chip name to determine which code you wanna run on your board. So you can write code that can work on a variety of different chips, but maybe you have special things you're gonna do in your code depending on which chip is on your microcontroller. So in this case, I'm just testing really for two, but this could be for as many chips as you like. So I'm testing for, is it an RP2040 or is it a SAMD21? And you can see here, I have a feather, this is the feather RP2040. This one's plugged in right now, and you can see I have the NeoPixel that's built onto the board cycling through a rainbow cycle just on the one LED. If I unplug this and plug in this circuit playground express, which is a SAMD21 Cortex M0, you'll see that we have a different effect. It's running a rainbow across 10 NeoPixels here. So there we go, it's restarting. You can restart, you can do it. I'll restart you for you. There we go. So what's happening in code here? Oh, you know what? I'm gonna tell it to connect to that. So you'll see here, when we connect, it actually does a little test to see which chip is it on. And when it finds out that's the circuit playground express, it's gonna use 10 NeoPixels in the code. When it finds out that this one is an RP2040, it just uses the one. Now this is kind of a ginned up example here because there are other ways to do that, but imagine you're looking for a chip that you can overclock or one that has different ADC available. So your code will vary depending on what you know to be the features of that chip. So what happens is when we start up, we use this import OS, and then if the import, rather if the OS uname sysname is RP2040, then we know we have an RP2040 chip there, and I'm setting it in this case to just use one LED. If the OS uname sysname has SAMD21 in it, then I know that I'm on this Cortex M0 and I'm gonna do a different thing. Then in this case, we're just setting the number of LEDs and we run our little color wheel NeoPixel demo on the proper number of LEDs. But again, remember, this could be something like, hey, if I'm on RP2040, then I know I have PIO available. If I'm on an M4, I know I have a couple of ADC channels for doing stereo. So it's a way of testing which chip is on the board and then you can run your code accordingly. And that is how you can run different code on your chips depending on which chips you have plugged in. And that is your circuit Python Parsec. Yes, circuit Python. All right. And you know what, the thing that threw me is I think my REPL decided to misbehave. And I can't remember what the, I've run into this before. You know what? I know what it is. I'm gonna do a little bogus print at the beginning here because I'm expecting it to spit out the name of the board that we're plugged into. Let's see here. In fact, I think I had updated this code. So let's, yeah, M-Zero. Okay, let me fix this even a little better. And then I'll just redo that bit so that we have a nicer edit later. So print checking the chip dot, dot, dot. Okay, you see here when I save the code, it's gonna reload it. And the first thing it's gonna do is check for which chip it's running. You can see in my REPL outlet, so it's checking the chip. This one's an M-Zero. If I go ahead and unplug this and I'm gonna plug in this feather. And I'll resave that code onto the feather there. It's okay to overwrite it because the same code can run on both. And now I will open this up in the REPL. And when the code starts, you can see here checking the chip. This one says, oh, it's an RP2040, a minute acts accordingly. Okay, hopefully what I just did there explains it a little better. And we'll make it easier to create a coherent edit later for the little two minute version of this. I will say also there are versions of this you can use that will check the exact board. So you can say, I need to know exactly which board it is, not just which chip. It's a similar setup, but you may have different uses depending. Let's say you're using only QT-PIs, but when you plug it in, you might have a M-Zero QT-Pi, you might have an RP2040, you might have a ESP32. Depending on which one you've got plugged in, you might wanna run different code. Let's say you can do that. Let's see. Hope that wasn't too confusing there. Okay. Next up, what have we got? I want to dive into this watch winder. So I think, I just grabbed a, let's see if this has enough battery. I keep trying to show this, I really need to take the watch band off of this watch to make it a little easier to show. But one thing I'm trying to show here, maybe I'll just go to a website that shows it. On, there we go. On the back of this watch, there's a clear case back. And you can see right there, some of my little escapement mechanism is ticking along. Let's see if I can adjust this focus here. Okay, so you can see this little escapement mechanism moving along because it has a power reserve of some mainspring tension. This watch doesn't actually have a sort of traditional stem winder. The only way it can wind is when this offset rotor moves. And so I'm gonna move it as if I'm wearing it and you'll see it fall back into place. Let's see, oh my gosh, this is so hard to, there we go, okay. See that little movement there, okay. So that is a motion that happens when you're walking around, just swinging your arm, doing things. So as that goes, and it can go all the way around, it can go in either direction. There are a couple of little pinions that it can push and pull on that will wind that mainspring. And so this stays wound just by wearing it. And it's designed to be sort of an appropriate amount of winding for when you're wearing it so that it doesn't stay fully compressed all the time. It needs to, the spring needs to unwind a bit or it can degrade its effectiveness. So the idea with these automatic watch winders is on days when you're not wearing the watch you might have 30 or 40 hours of reserve on a typical mainspring before it's gonna slow down or just stop. So in order to not lose time or especially the date and day function on this when you aren't wearing the watch, you can get these mechanical or electromechanical motorized winders that just rotate the watch. Some of them will just rotate for a while and stop to let it unwind a bit. Some will go in both directions. That's the gist of it. So last week I took one of these stepper motors. This is a stepper motor. I believe this is one of the ones we sell in the store. Happened to have spacing that I could use some nylon screws, M3s I think to screw in a couple of technic beams. Technic lift arms, these are called, from Lego Technic, which allowed me to kind of graft it into a gearbox. The gearbox I was using was this one here, which I've made. And audio is back. Thank you for the warnings. People pinged me and I appreciate that. Batteries died on my receiver pack, these are wireless. Okay, so the question is, how much did you miss? What was I doing when I lost audio? I'll back up and say so last week I had as my sort of first version of this taken one of our stepper motors and geared it down a bunch. And that was with this gearbox here, this technic gearbox. And that gave me some lower speed, higher torque. And I was able to turn the watch on that. The thought I had was, what about using one of these little TT motors? They're easier to work with, they're simpler. They are cheaper. And not insignificantly, we have a little adapter that goes from this sort of flatted shaft to the technic cross axle. I sort of had to mangle one carving off part of its interior and banging it on with a hammer to get it to work on this stepper. So I decided, I'll leave that one on there now that it's there, but I decided to give this a try. So with this, I believe I already have more torque at lower speed than that stepper. And since I want to control this from a circuit playground, express, and a cricket board using make code, I don't have a ton of software control over the stepper in there. Make code makes life really easy and simple, good for this kind of project, but you don't have a lot of control over stepper settings, just kind of either running it forward or backward. So motor, we can, same sort of thing, we can mostly just adjust the power we're sending to at the speed. But in doing so, I realized, let me see, do I have an extra one of these here? I just, no, I just have the one here right now. I realized that it would be worth trying out a much simpler gearing setup, which is this worm gear. So this is a Technic, little Lego Technic gear box, real common. You'll get these in lots of different Mindstorm and Spike and other robotic sets. And you can see I have the shaft of the TT going into that little Technic adapter. It's turning this screw or worm gear. And as that turns, it then is rotating this gear here, which I have a shaft on and that's what's gonna turn the watch itself. So much, much simpler setup there. This is mostly just to sort of stabilize the weight of it. This is, you can see, got some clutch to the pin that's in there, but it can turn freely. So even though the motor is meant to turn that, if it gets blocked on something, we're not gonna burn out the motor. So pretty simple setup. And then a lot of this is just space for being able to put my little Circuit Playground Express Cricut. I 3D printed one of these lovely mounting plates that's Lego compatible that Reese Brothers built for one of our Rover projects a few years ago. And then I've stuck it to some Lego plates, mostly here and put some tiles on it to make it look nice. So let me show this in action and I'll show you some of the design behind that and where I'm going with it. So nice thing also with this is that these are pretty forgiving as far as the angle goes, just as long as it's rotating to get that little rotor spinning a bit, it's gonna do the rest. So let's jump over here and I'll show you this in action. We can take it apart a little bit. It's pretty easy to put back together. So all we have here is a focus, sorry for the camera wobble. So all we do is plug in a five volt, I have a five volt two amp DC power supply to the Cricut. The Circuit Playground Express is bolted mechanically and electrically to the Cricut. So we have power ground, I square C, which is how most of the Cricut functions are controlled and then we have a couple of these pins A0 and A1 connected. The rest of them you could still use with like alligator clips coming off of your Circuit Playground Express, but that means that the Cricut board through I square C mostly can read or write these eight signal IOs. We have four cap touch pins here, NeoPixel out, Speaker out. We have drive pins, which are for more like solenoids or unipolar steppers. And then we have these two sets of motor pins here. Sorry, let me go a little closer. These two sets of motor drive pins can be used as motor one, motor two, or you can gang up the four of them or five depending on the type of stepper you have. I think when I was using this stepper, there's, yeah, this is four wires, so those basically go in a certain order into those four pins. But here we're just using it as simple DC motor mode and you can see the layout a little better there. I experimented a bunch. There's a certain height we need for clearance of the watch here. There is a variable distance between the motor and the gearbox because this axle has a half an inch or so that it can move side to side. But I wanted to get this a sort of Lego system stud unit width away to rest on a little stack of bricks here. And it was actually easier to rest it there or I, in fact, used just a little bit, I know it's blasphemy in Lego community, I used a little bit of double stick foam tape there just to adhere it to one tile. So that's stable and not moving around makes it a little quieter, too. So if you power this on, you can see I've got, I don't know what the gear ratio is, but if I, sorry, I'll zoom in here and try to hold it steady. But you can see here, we've got pretty quick rotation of the shaft itself that's being geared down, maybe, I don't know, 10X or something to this here. So I believe I'm running this maybe at 75% speed or 50% speed, we'll look at the make code. And that works well for getting a pretty nice reasonable speed on the rotation there. So if we look here, I just have the thing running for five seconds or so and then it reverses direction and I'm also changing the colors of the neopixels just so I know that I've changed direction and it's fun. You've got neopixels there, you're gonna use them. Pause for a moment and then reverse direction. So also nice thing about using the Cricket, it's got an on-off switch that totally cuts power to the whole thing, so it's a nice way to be able to control that. This is unchanged actually from last time, which is my mounting method of choice is wrap your watch around a wheel and tire and then since that gives us some squishy, we can squishy that into this open brick here and you can see we've got enough clearance there for not bumping into stuff. You can move this off to the side. I think in the final design, I've widened this out a bit. I'll show you so that we can move the Cricket off to the side, which means we would accommodate a bigger watch as well. Last week also, I was just kind of hanging the whole thing off of the shaft. That wasn't too nice, it could sag a little bit, put some strain here, so I added a lift arm here that's pinned into a couple bricks and then this has a low friction pin, so this is sort of a free running axle right there. Don't do that, don't wiggle it until you drop your watch. Okay, so we'll just squish that in there. You could, if you were feeling fancy, go ahead and use an axle to hold that wheel in place if you really wanna make sure it can't fall out. That'll just secure that in place so now the wheel can't come out. It's just an extra step, so I don't think it's necessary, but there it is. Okay, so this, we should be able to demo here, and I actually haven't run this for a couple of days while I'm not wearing it and then check the time. I will before I put out the guide on that. I'll probably start that after the show, but this movement here, there's no choice, but for that little pendulum-shaped rotor, as I call it, to be turning. Going in two directions, it's actually not really all that necessary. Probably the only thing it's doing is helping the motor from getting memories of DC motors tend to, if you run them only in one direction, they tend to start to run really inefficiently in the other direction, but this particular watch doesn't care which direction that rotor spins, so it'll be fine just running it in either one or both. And the way I'm doing it here is mostly for testing purposes. Really what you should be doing is running it in one direction for quite a while, stopping, and then running it in the other. And the best guide on that is just looking at the instruction manuals of existing watch winders. My dad actually has one. He has a nice, expensive, commercially available watch winder for a nice watch of his that he showed me, and that's what gave me the idea for this whole thing. And it has four settings for speed, and they count that in rotations per day. So I think it's, is that right? I think it is, yeah. So something like 800 rotations per day is one of the settings or so. And then you can tell it to go clockwise, counterclockwise, or do both. Todd asks, but how fast can you spin it? If you go 100X faster, will it wind 100X faster? I will not try that. So let's see. I think that, oh, in the chat, by the way, I have my iPad here now finally back, so it's easier for me to keep an eye on the Discord chat at least. DJ737, TTC motors have two different main gear ratios, two versions, high torque or high speed variety. There's one to 48 and one to 90. And I don't remember which one this one is. I don't know if Adafruit sells both of those in yellow. I think we only have one ratio in yellow, and then we have a couple of these blue ones that I think are in a couple of different ratios that are different than those that you mentioned. Can I time travel by spinning it backwards? Great question. Okay, so let me pause that for a second and I'll leave that there. I won't run it while I'm doing this, just because I don't want the background noise, which is admittedly an issue with this. It's noisier than a commercially available one. So if you wanna spend the money on a commercially available one, you can probably get it quieter than that, or you could build a case for this, which is I think what the commercially available ones have done is they've encased in foam and wood and plastic, most of the noisy bits. So this one is a somewhat refined design. You know, I grabbed the bricks I have on hand, put it together, do some refining. I started to try to go for some consistency in the color and putting some tiles on so that it looks a little nicer than exposed studs. But then what I like to do since I'm gonna make this available as a downloadable model, which I'll show you how to do this. You can upload it to Bricklink or Brickowl and download or rather buy the parts used or new from a third-party seller. You can get them quite inexpensively. So to do all of that, what I like to do is go over to Bricklink's studio, which I think I've shown this before, but maybe not in a ton of detail. So this you can see here is my version of the model, like I said, I've made it a bit wider. There happens to be a Lego octagonal plate that is very similar to Cricut size. So there's not an easy way to import just a generic STL model or something like that into studio, at least not that I know of. So rather than try anything like that, I'm just putting something to represent the Cricut and the Cricut 3D printed plate there that is still on the system's grid, so that'll work. But you can see, yeah, I've expanded the space out there. I've built it up in what I think is a reasonable number of parts that are common parts. It's very easy in Lego CAD software to pick parts that are exactly what you want and are also super rare and very expensive. Most of the parts here I think are 10, 15 cents, but you can, I think for two of these parts, these are like $5 parts here, because those are a bit somewhat unusual, a six by 24 plate. But you can get into parts that cost 10, 20 bucks just because they're rare and that's what you're gonna pay for them. So I tried to keep it reasonable and I'll show you how you can look at that as you go. So let's, first of all, this isn't a tutorial on how to use studio, but I'll just show you some of the steps of how I put it together. You can, let's see, go into a mode here where essentially you have layers or steps. And so you can kinda clump together the parts you're building into individual steps, which makes it much easier to put out your instructions later. So you can see here, step two adds three of these plates on top of the previous one. Step three, I've added some smaller connectors. Step four, I've added a plate on the bottom. So this is sort of the foundation of it. And one of the neat things, if you're at all familiar with Lego, Lego instructions from the Lego group, they often have in the manual little symbol that says, flip your model over. And I figured, oh, this is actually a pretty good way to do this, is start with this one piece, flip that over and lay on these three pieces. And so I'll show you in the instruction maker how you can do that so that you can make very clear to follow instructions, which I think is neat. Another thing you can do, you can see here I'm putting together the little stand back here for my gear box is make sub-assemblies. So you'll notice there's a step here where I went from having three bricks and a plate to having one, is it one more plate? Yeah, one more plate and an axle and a worm gear and the gear box and another axle and this gear and a little red peg there. All that stuff looks like it's one step, but that's because I essentially grouped them together so that in instruction building, you can say, make this off to the side, not every single piece you build all starts from linearly from the first piece to the last piece. So it's easier sometimes to essentially build a sub-assembly off to the side and then plump that onto the model. So here in sort of the main CAD building of it, I put all those parts, but then I grouped them together. Then later in the instruction maker, we can call that out as its own, it's actually automatically called out as its own little sub-assembly so we get separate steps for it. And so then I'll breeze through this, this is my little, what's this part called? Technic Brick 6x8 Open Center. And you can see when I click on a part, either in the instruction or the steps over here or just pick it in the main view, down at the bottom it tells us things like the official part number, the nice name for it and the average price. So that's a $2 plate right there. This is a $2 brick, even this, let's see, oh, that one's a grouped sub-model so it can't tell us the individual prices for that yet. But I'll show you where we can see that info in a second. So then I've added a little lift arm here and little supports for it and then my wheel. And again, the wheel is its own sub-assembly so that we put the tire over the wheel hub. There's some assembly for what I rest my motor on and then I start filling in some tiles just for it to look nice. More tiles, more tiles, more tiles. And I did these in grouped sets that make sense. So this one here, let's see, this is step 23. That is these four corner, four by four pieces. It is better than just throwing them all down at once or you just wanna come up with a way that feels like it would be clear during building. You don't want people counting X number over so if we put some big landmark pieces then in the next step, the only pieces we're using are four by four and it's really obvious where those will go. Then in the next step, we're filling in some of these other shapes like one by fours and two by twos. And then I have four bricks in here that the 3D printed Cricut plate, base plate, will go on top of and there it is. So two, let's see, I don't even know. Is this gonna show the ones I already built? To go into instruction mode, there's just a button we click. Okay, yeah, so in instruction mode you have sort of automatically arranged on the side here the steps that are based on those steps or layers that you had created. So those are a nice way to just see what's the flow of this thing. If you go into page design, you can see there I could import a fancy renderer and put some text, but if you go into page design it automatically does that very nice Lego instruction manual thing of in a little box tells you which parts you're gonna use and shows you how to connect them. Here on my second page, you can see I picked the part and then off to the side here, you can go to change the view. And so I was able to flip it upside down, I won't do that now because I'll mess it up. I was able to flip the view and then even insert a little icon of this arrow flip. So I put in one of these things, I don't need two of them. So that just tells you flip this upside down and this is the little call out box that says there's three of these gray parts that you're gonna put in here. You can also add text for things like if you put in axles, you could say this is a six brick wide axle, that sort of thing in case there's multiple parts to avoid confusion. As you can see, next step, I throw in these little two by fours and then finish the underside with this last big brick. Yeah, DJ Devon three says it's like fritzing for Lego. It really is, it's fantastic. I love it. It's been a long evolution of Lego cat. I've used them over the years from some real primitive stuff to this one now, which is actually based on old L draw concepts and file formats, but it's just very, very modernized in the UI, which is great. Next, we're throwing in this base. Hopefully that's clear enough where that goes. You can see back there, there were one away from the edges, but you can change your views, sort of rotate your camera to make it clearer. We'll put that stack in. And then here's that, you can see since I made that gearbox a group, not only does it call out those individual steps without the rest of the model there to worry about, it's also small enough steps with small enough parts that I changed the layout to have multiple steps per page. So I have two columns on this page, two columns on this page, oops, two columns on this page. And now we've got the whole thing built and we set it on top of the stand there. And I maybe should have done a little rotate view. There's an icon for saying, hey, we're looking at the backside. We were previously looking at the other side and then I flip it back around. We throw this little piece on here, whoops, sorry, add the holder. Again, this was a separate grouped sub-assembly so we don't see the rest of the model as we build that little arrangement of pegs for the lift arm and then clip that to the end. You can see here it's not, I don't love the camera angle, but I adjusted it. It's actually kind of a pain you're just typing in X, Y, and Z values, which is tricky on a camera, to get a view where I could see where that was sort of floating off of the bottom, not touching. And then we add in the little base that's gonna support it here again, two columns of the assembly of the tire and the wheel and those were a group so they pop out as their own without being part of the bigger model and then I drop them in place. Again, sub-assembly for putting together this little guy who rests the motor on. Throw in these tiles, there was no elegant way to do this. I may have to break that into a couple of steps because you kind of can't see around. There's a lot in the way there. So if you have any suggestions, let me know or I'll check some instruction manuals to see how LEGO handles that. But this does do the nice thing of highlighting red the new parts that you've put down because sometimes it can be hard to tell, well, what even changed from this page to the next? And here you can see I was able to just camera around because check this out, this is actually a live, oh, I say that but now it's not behaving. There we go. Oh, it's sort of let me, oh, it won't let me, I think I'd have to shrink a bit but yeah, you can within reason adjust that camera which is great so you can decide what you want to show. I'm just gonna undo, lay in the rest of these two by four tiles, rest of those, these bricks that the Cricut will set on, boom, and then a nice render. Actually did a newer render at a higher quality level. You can see here there's some faceting going on on the tires there because I said at like a medium render level but it has a nice, I think it's a global illumination renderer that is called eyesight maybe. I believe it's also used in Blender but nice looking renderer to exit out of here and that's a, you can export that as PDF is generally what you do and then just share that PDF so that people have the steps. The model info stuff I wanted to show you is if I go to model, model info, here you can see I'm at $40. There are 81 parts and those are comprised of 27 unique parts, multiple of some of those. If you look at this price each column you can see what's expensive on this, it's mostly those big plates. So it's $5 for the six by 24, $2 for the eight by 16 and then it just gets cheaper and cheaper from there so nothing unusual or rare. Some of these are 10 cents, seven cents and this is based on average prices on Bricklink. You can then make adjustments if you want. You can in fact look at a part and if you click on the color selector for it you can say give me the cheapest color for the selected. So this is great if you have filler parts that aren't gonna be seen or if you happen to like red. So if I change that to red and that one to red, let's see what the cost is on that part. $3.21 it says down here at the bottom instead of what was it, $5 basically. So you can make adjustments. You can also use Bricks that you have and if you want you could just remove those from your model here and then export that. Yeah, Ty, you can swap large expensive plates into smaller same style plate pieces. Yeah, I don't think there are any automated ways to do that but if I just delete that part right there and go look at some more common plates, let's say six by eight, how much is a six by eight? $0.64, so yeah that's probably cheaper right to fill in three of those. And look, it's got fantastic snapping stuff, that's another feature of this. So if we do that, let's see what we bring the price down to I can never remember how multi-select is supposed to work in here. This reduces some of my stability on the base here just because of these being exactly aligned with the seams so you probably wouldn't do it exactly with these pieces but let's just check, did that move the needle much? I bet it's in the $35 range now. $34.84, so yeah, you can definitely, and I have no idea if it's easy to write plugins. I don't think there's scripting in here but it sure would be neat to be able to say, okay, I wanna come up with some plausible alternatives that are cheaper. So if that's what you wanted to go with you can then export this as a XML or comma separated value list and bring that over into Bricklink where you can then use that and I won't go into that. That's lots of websites, we'll show you how to do that. It's pretty straightforward. There are competitors like Brick Owl that do the same sort of thing. It's a matter of in those sites using their tools that will say, I wanna buy this as cheaply as possible and it will then do a whole bunch of database magic to say, okay, if you buy it from these three stores including their shipping, this is cheaper than the cheapest store that has all your parts, which is nice. So I think it's plausible to get this for 50, 60 bucks when you start including the shipping into it. So I ordered before I made all of this stuff here I ordered just this stuff which came out to about 30 something dollars to get that just so I would have a nice version of it that was the exact parts that I designed here and not just the semi random colors that I had laying around. Let's see, I think beyond that something I'm looking into doing and I haven't used Studio that much but I am gonna look into file export and translation to see if I can bring it into things like Maya or Rhino. I think people have been bringing these into Blender and then you can do some more interesting stuff with motion and animation and pivots and stuff like that. If you are worried about some of the stability of this, you can go ahead and run a stability check and it's telling me, I think, I don't know how to ask it what these clutch power warring issues are but the main thing is worried about is that I didn't put the axle in so it's telling me that that wheel isn't really supported properly in there so you might wanna look into that. I'm not sure what the pink is on this if that's, it says it's a caution. But I don't know what the caution is about so you can turn off stability check there and there are probably other cool tools in there I don't know about. So that's what I was doing yesterday was building a nicer version of this so that I can put this into the guide and it'll make my life easier to just have instruction steps than trying to photograph putting this whole thing together this'll be nicer and easier to maintain. So last thing I wanna do is jump back over to the other branch of Inquiry which was taking something like this smartwatch, let me go to a down shooter. So this is the Bangal JS it's an open source smartwatch we have these in the Adafruit store. You can see in the upper left corner I have a step counter I think that's daily that I have it set to. This has an accelerometer gyroscope IMU built in at the firmware level one of the things that it is constantly keeping track of is your accelerometer and gyro data towards figuring out pedometer steps. So it's at 265 right now if I kind of walk a little bit with sort of a natural swinging motion got it up to 274 I was bouncing it a little bit. So the question that Lamar had was can we use your watch winder to fake out these things? Shorter answer is no, just rotating absolutely doesn't and you can kind of see it it'll turn off its backlight. You can see it right here this kind of motion it doesn't care about that. Me just kind of jiggling it. Nope, so, oh wait we got some. So on some axis not this one maybe this one it's a little inconsistent we're getting some there. So I wanted to try other contraptions and most of them failed is the short answer if we go to, let's go to this workbench view I think just that one will work. So what I wanted to do was try some sort of figure eight stepping or pendulum kind of motions and what I did was I attached this to one of these Technic wheels and put it onto some beams and tried some movement to see if any of them would give me what I needed. This one's spinning a lot just the way I've got it right now. Does that spinning fake it out? I'm willing to try anything, let's see. It was at 302, 308, yeah so that some spinning fast spinning this way could work potentially. I don't have an answer but I'll show you the most ludicrous but sometimes successful sometimes not successful answer I've come up with which let's see if you can see that. I have that gearbox that I built for the stepper motor but on the end of it now I have this sort of eccentric linear arcing vertical pendulum kind of shape that's being described. If we just put the watch on that doesn't do much of anything but if we get to a, let's see what was the version of this that was working. If we hang it from that and if we're allowing it to freely swing from a shape like this it seems to be potentially successful so this will be, is that what I want? Not really, okay well we'll try this just for fun. Yeah that's way longer than what I was testing before. Let's make this a little bit more reasonable. Yeah that's a better demo of it. So I want a, there are essentially with these pins that connect these beams there are ones that have friction nubs on them and ones that swing freely. We want the swing freely style so that we don't reduce the amount of free swinging motion that it can do. So gray are usually the frictionless, relatively frictionless ones. At least they're not intentionally frictionful. Yeah this is gonna, on this side. Okay, yeah that should sort of work so let's, so that's the idea with this. Let me check the, so we're at 331. This may do absolutely nothing. It's real nuanced where I've been able to get motions that actually mimic what it's looking for well enough. I'm also not sure if it requires the pedometer type of motion to be consistent for a little bit so it's not just you're picking up your coffee mug and stuff like that but it may be looking for somewhat repetitive, similar motion. Okay let's see. And nothing, so that did nothing 331 still. The most promising thing I think at this point is to entirely just pull that apart mostly and do a pendulum motion because this seems to work. So here's 331, okay. A fairly long, I think mimicking your arm swing kind of motion 349. Yeah so that works pretty well. So I may just get to build a clock escapement pendulum type of situation which would be fun. I don't know if there are other better ways to impel this thing to do that. I'm just moving back and forth ever so slightly to keep that going but I think possibly a clock escapement with a couple of motors that act sort of like winches to pull a weight up one way or the other. Could be a fun way to do that sort of thing. But 399, yeah so this is the most successful fake out of this thing so far that I found is just swing it. I don't really wanna swing it like a fan. I know some people attach Fitbits to fan blades and stuff, I don't really wanna do that with this but that potentially works as well. Todd says the current design is a good hypnotist's tool though. Mike Pease has ever played the incredible machine? Yes, getting those vibes here. Maybe so much of my life was informed by playing lots and lots of the incredible machine. Yeah, it's ridiculous. By the way, also just to continue on this thread that Tyeth was asking about with swapping large plates into smaller ones, I did see over in Berkling's studio there is when you have a part selected down at the bottom it says find alternative bricks, find compatible bricks, replace copy and mirror. And I've never touched those, I didn't know they were there. Search for similar parts, okay that's cool. That throws up a bunch of stuff that at least hits some of the same search terms like tiles that are within the size of the existing one. Find compatible bricks, don't know what that means. And it comes up with nothing. Replace probably lets you pick one and do broad replacements across the model. Anyway, some stuff to explore there. Also I went with this white because it was kind of clean looking. I will say it's not the easiest thing in the world to put together models when you have almost everything in the same color. So that's kind of one of the reasons I went with that middle layer, that sandwich of gray there just because a lot of parts were going on top of it. All right, well I think that's gonna do it. Tithes just keeps some balloons, fan string and candles on hand. Well trained for those MacGyver moments, absolutely. Can you just put these on your dog? I don't know, I think some of them get faked out by just attaching Fitbits to dog collars. Okay, before I forget I will say since the thrust of this really was my watch winder more than this wacky thing, hourglass, not hourglass, hourglass. That is our turning of the sands of time over and over. That is also our coupon code for today. So if you wanna go get some great stuff in the Adafruit shop, for example, you could do worse than to type in TT motor. And we've got our 200 RPM, three to six volt motor. We've also got, if you go on, I think to page two, where is the, nope, maybe it was on the first page. Yeah, right underneath it. DC Gearbox TT motor to Lego compatible cross axle. That is the little part there that fits neatly onto the end of that TT motor. You could, by the way, go with these metal or metal and plastic ones, but I didn't have a need to and I think they're louder than the all plastic one. The plastic is just quieter for reasons of physics. But those are some other options that I believe same shaft, so you could use that Lego compatible cross axle there. So those are some things you could get. I will say right now the Cricut for Circuit Playground Express is out of stock. The Circuit Playground Express is in stock, so you could get 10% off of that. And I showed last week, and I'll show it in the guide, you can use your make code to program that, makes it super easy, but you can alternative to that is to use Circuit Python or Arduino on Circuit Playground Express. That'll work just fine. And there are Cricut libraries for all of those. Typhus, do you ever grease your plastic and Lego for noise friction reasons? I have never done that. That's a great question. I don't know if there's a recommended grease to use on Lego. I know there's people who make enormous, crazy, technique, contraptions would be a good question if they're using some sort of grease that's okay for the ABS plastic. Good question. But anyway, if you wanna go and get some of this stuff or whatever you want, it doesn't matter. We'll give you the discount anyway, as long as it's things that we have in the shop that are actual atoms that we'll send to you in a box. Hourglass that you get 10% off. And I think that's gonna do it for today. So thanks everyone for stopping by. We'll be back with a, I believe there's gonna be a deep dive tomorrow with Scott or with FOMI Guy or both, or FOMI Guy on Saturday, I'm not sure if those things happen. And then on Tuesday, I'll have another product pick of the week. On Wednesday, we will have 3D Hangouts. We'll have show and tell, ask an engineer and more. So thanks everyone, have a great rest of your Thursday, your Friday, your weekend. And I will see you next time, Prader Fruit Industries. This has been John Park's Workshop and I'm John Park. Bye-bye.