 We're just gonna jump right into things today. We're unboxing a $100 Sony PVM. So this one is advertised as not working. I bought it on eBay. It cost me a couple of dollars over 100 after I had to pay for shipping and taxes, but not much. So the reason this was a $100 shipped was it went to auction. It was in very rough shape according to the advertisement. Actually some of the pictures were edited in an extremely weird way. I was hoping it would be packed a little bit better than this. Ah, so here we have an example of what we talked about on the Cathode Ray podcast with Andy King and that is sealed foam. Sealed foam pieces used in this old recycled box. So let's just see that again, it needs to be not busted on the bezel and stuff from it to be important to me. Okay, and this is that sealed air product. You can see how it morphs around the actual item that you're packing it where it will actually morph into it. Yeah, so this box is super flimsy, single wall, been used numerous times. It was not new. Some more pieces of the sealed foam, how it goes in the corners. So thankfully that was used or this definitely would not have made it. What do you think, Brutus? Well, here's the PVM. And it does say trash on top of it. I don't think I saw that before, but it's not in too bad a shape. It said it had water damage. I don't know about that. It doesn't look like it has water damage, maybe it does. The button's good. All the buttons feel nice on the button board. Sony emblem is missing here, but that's okay. I was expecting all that. Now here's the part where it said it was untested because of this. A power cord had been cut off and that's what we have left here. It's just this cord needs to be replaced. It gets said water damage, but this does not look like water damage. So this stuff right here is an old residue left over from some very old tape like duct tape or something. So that's a good sign. What we have is a 1990, September, or 1343 MD. But wow, look at that condition. I'm gonna open it up and I'm gonna see if just replacing maybe this power cable will get us at least to turn this monitor on. So this is the original power cable that was connected inside here. And I actually have a replacement from a salvaged other unit of this model of PVM. So I was able to just use that without having to make a new one of these cables. And the nifty thing about these PVMs, these 13 and 19 inch that are in this format from Sony is the power supply can be set on the side like this. There's an extra set of hooks on this side of the actual casing for this power supply board. So it can sit out like this. It gives you a little bit more room or more testing and also check things that you may need to with a little bit more space. And this would be nice to make like a convergent strip adjustment or anything. You'll give yourself a little bit more space if you need to work in that area. But it's finally been replaced, this cable. We've got a Sega Genesis hooked up to RGB. And let's just go ahead now and for the very first time power this thing on and see what happens. It definitely sounds normal. You can hear the 15 kilohertz wine. You heard the gong from the automatic degausing. And you can hear those electrons starting to go in that tube. I feel the tube, it's got static electricity on it. I'm not trying to tease you too much longer but I just want to give it a second before we actually go around and look at it and see if anything comes up. There we go. Wow, look. So I see colors and on our EverDrive menu it does look like we have our color, all three colors here. But let's get a game pulled up and just see how this looks. Blue, white, that means we've got all our primary colors here. It looks brilliantly bright. And it's actually not even out of calibration or anything too badly. Yeah, so I think we may have lucked out here. Look at this. Let's check out the 240p test suite. This is the monoscope pattern. I'm gonna show you some zones on this but it is in good shape and looks to be pretty nice just as it is. You can tell that the yoke's not leaning. It's pretty well centered along the top and the bottom. But there is some screen bowing where the screen kind of bows towards this direction on both edges. If you can see that along this edge how it kind of bows in, it's difficult to see probably on the camera but if you look at it closely, you can tell. Let's go in and check out some of the closer corners for a convergence check. We get in there close and look for separation of colors. Like up in this corner, see how the blue is slightly separated out from the green and the red. And that's why there's that blue shadow or hue right in there beyond what you can see on the white line there. So there's a convergence strip that probably should be added in that corner. And that's pretty typical. This corner over here looks really clean. I don't see any separation similar to what we saw at the other end. Down at the bottom looks really clean. And the other bottom, it's not perfectly clean. It also has some blue drooping. So that's another one we could try to adjust and that's gonna be a little bit more difficult of a corner to get into. We'll see what we can do. But what I'm gonna do is take this apart. I'm gonna clean it. I'll do a capacitor kit on it. I'll see how many of these markers and other things I can get off of it. I wanna see if I can find a plate or a Sony emblem here. I don't know if I can, but I'll try to. And then we'll follow up with this thing and see how it looks after it's been fully refurbished because shoot for a hundred bucks, you really can't beat that. Thanks again for watching everybody. I'll see you next time with some more retro content.