 Section 19, the Roosevelt Rondon Scientific Expedition and the Telegraph Line Commission. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recording by Rita Butros, the Roosevelt Rondon Scientific Expedition and the Telegraph Line Commission by Candido Mariano da Silva Rondon. Translation by Richard George Reedy and Edwin Douglas Murray. Third lecture, Part 6. Up to this point, I have restricted myself in the present exposition to only consider the results obtained by the Telegraph Line Commission in the execution of the principal part of a series of work entrusted to it. Not only to cross and explore the great wilderness of the northwest of Mato Grosso, but also to occupy it and open it up definitely to the joint activities which characterize the civilization and the life of our country. To relate in a simple lecture all the measures adopted by the commission to bring such a great undertaking to a successful end is a difficult task. And I do not propose to attempt same, but on the whole in the work effected there are many aspects of restricted interest, for they are of a technical order, and there is a part which on this occasion I cannot fail to mention lest the nature and motive of the efforts exerted to obtain that object should remain unknown. I refer to the geographical surveying expeditions with which the commission not only studied the natural resources which there are to be turned to account in the explored regions, as well as the course to be pursued in order to facilitate the installation of a double movement of coming in and going out, on which the life of such a considerable and important segment of the national territory depends. I will here therefore give a rapid glance over the capital conclusions at which these expeditions arrived, declaring, however, that I am sorry to see myself obliged, owing to the limited space into which I must confine my exposition, to pass over in silence, or without giving them all the enhancement they merit, numerous passages wherein are set out the strength and beauty of the character, the energy, and the intelligence of the Brazilian citizens who undertook them, and eventually carried them out. They were chiefly the officers of our army who conducted and accomplished them. As we all know, the region that served as the stage for the enactment of the rare aptitudes of its fearless explorers can be defined from a hydrographical point of view by the basins of five large collectors, the Paraguay, the Guayapur, the Madiera, the Gioroania, and the Tapijós, which nevertheless taken jointly form but three distinct arteries, whereas the third is an extension of the second and the last is the continuation of its precedent. Consequently, I shall put together the work of which I am now about to give a short notice around the central courses of these three basins, displaying them in the order in which they increase in importance in regard to the multiplicity of the material which they have respectively supplied for the present exposition. In the basin of the Paraguay, we shall have to detain ourselves but a short while. The river from which it takes its name is known since the colonial days, not only by reason of the constant navigation, which has at all times been carried on along its course, but also from the topographical plan of the same which was organized by the Portuguese Border Commission, of which Ricardo Franco, Lecerda y Almeida and Silva Pantes were members. Notwithstanding this, however, there is yet a correction to be made therein as regards the determination of its headwaters. It had been admitted almost without divergency that the Cetela Goas was the principal feeder of the Paraguay, but the first survey made by the Telegraph Lines Commission led us to ascertain the superiority not only as regards volume of water but even as regards the extension of the Ribeiro Amolar to which on the ground of these two facts alone its precedents in the formation of the Paraguay pertained. In the chapter dealing with the geographical conclusions with which I closed the report of the great surveys and reconnaissance of 1907 through 1909, I made mention of this correction as one of those which it is necessary to introduce in the map of Mato Grosso from the parallel 14 degrees 25 minutes and the meridian 13 degrees 16 minutes west of Rio de Janeiro up to parallel 10 degrees and the meridian 21 degrees. We can now say that to the conditions previously enumerated may be added the consideration in favor of the Amolar that its course maintains the same direction generally which is a condition proper to a main river. Thus once again the necessity of introducing the said correction in the map of Mato Grosso. We have not lost sight that the anthropo geographical argument weighs in favor of the Cetela Goas but we must also consider that the value of this argument is not of such a nature as to be able to destroy the indications resulting from the continuity of the general direction of the collector, its extension and volume. Besides we all know the opinion of Bartholomeo Rossi to which I referred in the said chapter of the geographical conclusions of the report on the surveys and reconnaissance of 1907 through 1909. This opinion is contrary to the designation of the Cetela Goas as the main branch of the Paraguay and awards the precedents to the Amolar. The same impression was gathered by Dr. Hercules Florence a member of the expedition under Count Langstorf when he saw the two rivers. In describing the region traversed by the Amolar he says we crossed thick woods of Guaguacus through which winds a river called Pedras de Amalar. Not far from this place it receives another which is so narrow that I gave a jump to cross it but which has already the name of Paraguay Sinho and comes from the Cetela Goas which are known as the headwaters of the Paraguay and lay at a distance of half a league at most. This denomination should more properly apply to the river Pedras de Amalar which runs down from a place some four leagues distant and possesses a larger volume of water but nevertheless after the junction with the Paraguay Sinho the pompous and famous name of Paraguay already appears. The Cetela Goas seven lakes were so close that we could not restrain the desire of seeing them. Going to the left in less than an hour we came to Swampy Ground where one can see marshes and here and there the Bioriti Palms. There is nothing remarkable to distinguish the site. A little stream flows there from and this is the Paraguay Sinho. From this passage of Dr. Hercules Florence's book and from the opinion of Bartolome Rossi it can be seen that the correction indicated by me although against the choice of the dwellers on the Paraguay in compensation it bears out the mode of thought of the old explorers who were sufficiently enlightened and had the occasion of ascending as far as the headwaters of the river and personally comparing the two feeders. If we should now wish to form an idea of the configuration of the beginning of the Great Basin of the famous feeder of the estuary of the River Plate let us imagine that we are ascending same and are journeying to the north of parallel 15 degrees. Continuing our voyage in this sense in the northeast quadrant we will arrive at a point where we see it dividing itself in two branches. One directing itself to the northwest becomes decidedly asymmetric in relation to the axis of the river which we are ascending. The other however slightly more voluminous conserves the direction of its axis. The first is the Santana, the second of the Paraguay Sinho. Therefore the name of Paraguay only exists from below the confluence of these two rivers. As among these it is the Paraguay Sinho which possesses the characteristics of being the prolongation of the trunk we will continue to ascend same. We will have gone very little upstream when we will have met on our right the mouth of a small river which is called the Brumado. Still continuing our journey we will pass in front of the bar of another river on our left where is to be found the town of Diamondino which it crosses. We still ascend. We now penetrate in the Planalto and there we see the Paraguay Sinho dividing itself into two branches the larger and more voluminous and besides this the one which we must continue to ascend in order not to change the general direction in which we are traveling. This is known under the name of Pedras de Amolar. The other preserves the name of Paraguay Sinho and a little further on will have terminated in the marshlands and swamps or little pools to which Hercules Florence referred. These little pools are those which received the name of Sete Lagos, Seven Lakes and were those indicated as being the sources of the famous Paraguay. We will now leave for another occasion the allusion which we intended to make to a few notions collected with regard to the headwaters of the Cuyabá and will now pass to the valley of the Guapore. With regard to the Guapore like the Paraguay known and navigated ever since the colonial days I will limit myself to refer to the principal results of an expedition which I ordered to leave from Wilhena in September 1912 under the direction of the North American mining engineer Moritz to study the course of a river which ran into it and whose headwaters had been noted in the Campos de Comemoracio de Floriano by the 1909 expedition. Following in the remains of a cutting which I had opened in 1909 and afterwards prolonging same the engineer Moritz recognized that the above mentioned river named by us Viado Preto is the tributary of a river which rises in the southeast and which at the time received the expressive designation of Nya se I do not know. Having made a canoe the engineer continued the exploration downstream during a few more days but encountering unsurpassable difficulties and with the few men at his disposal of whom many had become laid up he returned to Wilhena bringing the information which permitted me to identify the river Nya se with the corambillara whose mouth in the guapore is a short distance off the village of Guajaru belonging to Bolivia but the most interesting result of engineer Moritz's expedition was the conformation of the existence of a magnificent gold mine which was found on the surface of the ground under the same conditions in which the Portuguese had formally found gold in Cuiabá. I believe these mines were the celebrated Urucumación the wealth of which such marvels were told in the colonial days. On the other hand as the corambillara through the above mentioned Viado Preto is the watershed of the Pimenta Bueno and as in 1909 we verified the existence of gold between this river and the Barreo del Melgaso one can conclude that those gold fields extend through a considerable region from parallel 13 degrees as far as a point very much to the north of 12 degrees besides this mining wealth one must also mention in the slopes of the guapore the wealth which exists in all their forests where abundant specimens of Javier Breseliances and Bertoletia Excella grow. Engineer Moritz's expedition not only encountered numerous signs of Indians but also saw a few groups of same. He did not arrive however at entering into relations with them because they fled immediately they perceived the approach of the members of his expedition. With all the engineer thinks that they belong to a different nation from that of the Nambacuaras. End of section 19 Section 20 of the Roosevelt's Rondon Scientific Expedition and Telegraph Line Commission. This is a LibriVox recording all LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org recording by Rita Butros. The Roosevelt Rondon Scientific Expedition and the Telegraph Line Commission by Candido Mariano da Silva Rondon. Translation by Richard George Reedy and Edwin Douglas Murray. Third lecture part 7 If we accompany the course of the guapore and continue along the Madiera the first river which we will meet after the Corombiana studied by the Telegraph Lines Commission is the Jassi Perana. In my lectures of 1911 I explained how the error of the geographical charts with regard to the course and the position attributed to this river led me to include it in the plan of the great 1909 expedition. Therefore it is now known that I detached a party under the direction Manuel Theofilo da Costa Pinheiro to that river whose principal objective was to await the arrival of the expedition which had left from Teparo-Poen directing itself across the Certeo dos Parices and of the Nambuqueras to a point in which the parallel of 10 degrees is cut by the meridian of 20 degrees west of Rio de Janeiro. At this point the charts marked the headwaters of the Jassi Perana. The fact however was quite another because what exists there is the Jamari and the parallel of 10 degrees only intercepts the course of the Jassi after passing the meridian of 21 degrees. The consequence of this error in the charts was that the members of the expedition coming from Teparo-Poen had to get out into the Madiera through the Jamari without having the benefit of the assistants which was awaiting them on another river. However the efforts made by Captain Costa Pinheiro and by his assistant Lieutenant Amalcar Armando Botelo de Magaljez were not lost. On the contrary they were most useful for the progress of the geographical knowledge of important regions in our country. As it is impossible to here give a summary of all the notable achievements of the expedition under Captain Costa Pinheiro I will limit myself to cite the enumeration which he himself made in his report already published of the work effected on the Jassi. He proceeded with a topographic survey of the river from the mouth in latitude south 9 degrees 10 minutes 56 seconds 93 and in latitude west of Rio de Janeiro 21 degrees 18 minutes 22 seconds 20 up to the Cachoeira Grande in latitude south 10 degrees 23 minutes 56 seconds 40 and in latitude west of Rio de Janeiro 20 degrees 51 minutes 38 seconds 10 with a linear development of 323.926 meters soundings were made in the canal thermometrical and barometrical observations of the whole of the extension survey were taken determination of the transfer section and discharge of all the affluence and the waterfalls and valuation of the theoretic and effective potentials of the falls and rapids encountered determination of the geographical position of the most important points on the river the calculation of the altitudes of a series of noted heights the Rio Jassi Paraná says Captain Costa Pinheiro should have its sources on the Cerro dos Parices which from Cachoeira Campo Grande is perfectly visible to the observer in a slightly oblique direction to the general direction of the river from the observations which I made I should say that its course at the outside could attain an average of 400 kilometers its general direction is southeast and its tendency is more to the east than to the south the river in all its extension is very winding and the long stretches are rare its bed is very variable and one can even affirm that up to this day the river has not yet fixed it during the dry season one can navigate almost always over its primitive bed in winter however, every now and again one penetrates into a fresh bed generally narrow and undefined and which the river has prepared during the flooding season as regards the affluence some deserve special mention in as much as they already possess the appearance of rivers such as those called Canto, Farmoso, Capivari and Igarapé all on the left bank and on the right bank the Banco and the Igarapé da divisa as regards the population the Jesse is occupied by rubber tappers nearly as far as the Cachoeira Grande but its primitive inhabitants are the Caratiana Indians who are pressed by the rubber tappers are pushed back to the forest in the highest points of the valley of the river on ascending the Jesse Captain Costa Pinheiro had one of his canoes attacked by these Indians who thought they recognized in the physician of the expedition Dr. Paulo dos Santos a rubber tapper who persecuted them most cruelly we will now see the terms in which Captain Pinheiro himself describes the attack the fact which so much grieved us occurred on the 2nd of September at 4 p.m. a little above the Barasayo da Esperanza 137 kilometers distant from the mouth we had not yet made three stages after the passage of the above mentioned Barasayo when we heard cries for help which came from the canoe in front of us losing no time we rushed to the point whence came the cries perceiving as we got nearer the exclamations the Indians the Indians coming from two men who were struggling in the water we promptly fired a series of shots into the air whilst the canoe arrived at the spot where the two men who bad swimmers were endeavoring in a supreme effort to reach the other side of the river having taken them into our boat we directed ourselves to the canoe which was alongside the bank of the river in which was Dr. Paulo dos Santos who with three arrows in his body was bleeding and unconscious having taken him into our canoe which was the bigger and more comodious we endeavor to discover a missing man this man who was sick his companions declared had thrown himself into the water after having been wounded by an arrow all our efforts to find him were in vain as it was now getting dark we returned to the camp a little beyond the point where the attack commenced in order to attend to the wounded Dr. Paulo presented two large wounds on the left arm near the elbow and another in the abdomen this last wound was very slight the other man Eugenio Martens Afonso showed a small wound on the left thigh early on the following day I sent a well manned canoe to search for the other man who had disappeared for there was a supposition that he had gained and remained on the opposite bank of the river at three o'clock in the afternoon the canoe returned with the body of the unfortunate Jose da Silva which showed a large wound produced by an arrow in the ribs on the bank of the river I dug a grave and buried him he was a good man disciplined, very quiet and a worker his death upset us very much and produced great terror amongst our personnel after this sad accident the expedition continued and terminated its work without any further annoyance beyond the natural privations in common with those lonely and wild places accompanied by sickness and tropical fevers which seriously attacked Captain Pinheiro and his devoted assistant Lieutenant Amalcar de Magalhes if we continue from the mouth of the Jesse to descend the Madeira we will pass in front of the town of Santo Antonio and following on we will find the entry of another river entirely explored and studied by the Telegraph Line commission this is the Jamari which for the first time we had run over in 1909 having reached through the course of one of its subtributaries the River Pardon the conditions under which this took place and the observations collected in this first journey have already been expounded in 1911 the Telegraph Line in the part constructed by the north section leaves Santo Antonio in a direction almost due east it crosses the river Candaes reaches the Jamari crosses it and follows along its course from north to south up to the bar of the Canaan where in 1909 we encountered the Baraseo de Bom Futuro and where the Telegraph Station at Akimis exists today in maps previous to the work of the Telegraph Line commission as for example in those of Horace E. Williams under the title of O Acre e a Frantiera entre o Brasil e a Bolivia Acre and the Brazilian Bolivian Frontier emphasized with the declaration conform o Tratado de Petrópolis according to the treaty of Petrópolis the highest headwaters of the Jamari figure extended to the south of parallel 12 degrees in the middle of the section determined by the meridians of 17 degrees and 18 degrees by this localization the Jamari would have to cut the valley of the Gui Paraná passing over the rivers Barayo de Melgaso Pimenta Bueno Rolem de Mura and Ricardo Franco in short over all the affluence of the left of the Gui without counting the mountain ranges which would have to be crossed such as the Expa de Sayo and Descensas such terrible anarchy in the domains of geography does not in fact exist because the Jamari limits itself to extend its bed of scarcely 400 kilometers up to a little below parallel 10 degrees but without barely passing to the east of meridian 20 degrees of the two principal branches of which we can consider it to be formed one already brings from its sources the name which it maintains until entering the Madiera and the other is Codiquénan on leaving this place where the confluence occurs in latitude 10 degrees 2 minutes it successively receives the waters of the rivers Branco, Preto and Verde the two first of which I have previously mentioned and on the left those of the Mesengana and the already mentioned Candeas whose volume is almost equal to it and its mouth is not more than 25 kilometers from the point in which the two united lose themselves in the Madiera with regard to the population we already know that the Jamari besides being largely inhabited by white people who are employed in the extraction of India rubber and caucho possesses two Indian tribes one called Bocas Pretas and the other Arakimis the first who are settled between the rivers Branco and Preto are even to this day persecuted by the invaders of their forests with regard to the second lot whose real name is Ahopovo the name of Arakimis which is being taken from the Europa vocabulary I will relate their short and very sad history from the moment that they came into contact with the white people up to the time in which the telegraph lines commission took them under their protection in the beginning of 1911 the certain ahos who collected caucho and established themselves along the Mesengana began to get as far as the Arakimi villages were to be found the persecution of the Indians commenced on this occasion in the month of June these caucho tapers resolved to make a general onslaught against their Maloccas guided by the tracks opened in the forest by the Indians themselves they succeeded in discovering one of the Maloccas they surrounded same in the early morning whilst they were at work and suddenly opened fire and the bullets from their Winchesters rained upon their huts the unfortunate Indian men women and children only thought of flight frightened out of their lives one however named Ogunho fell assassinated by the gunfire the assailants now in possession of the village sacked it and as the time was not sufficient for them to terminate the nefarious work which they had planned they returned on the following day with more companions they separated what was still left as being good and useful and what they rejected they smashed and burnt leaving everything reduced to ashes the rubber plantations of Masagana belong to Mr. Francisco de Castro but still further up above the mouth of this river on the Jamari there existed already at that time other rubber tapers establishments only those belonging to the brothers Aruda with one of these I conversed regarding the brutal occurrences and persuaded him to use and cause to be adopted by his men employed on the rubber forest more humane treatment worthy of our civilization or at least such as would not cause us to blush when one remembers that it was used by Brazilians against their brothers inside the mother country future events took upon themselves to prove that my appeal had not been made in vain on the contrary they were fully corresponded to in the sentiments and thoughts of the person to whom my appeal had been directed Mr. Godefredo Aruda in fact in the following year 1912 the employees of this proprietor following at all hazards the instructions which they had received succeeded in establishing pacific and friendly relations with the Atakimis who frequently visited his rubber estate the notice of this success was not long in getting known to the Kaucho men of the Masagana who changing their tactics but not their purpose established friendly relations with the Indians thus they succeeded in being admitted into the villages of that river and once in them they immediately commenced to commit the greatest abuse provoking the disorganization of the Indian families and demoralized the customs and institutions of the Atakimis under the action of this deleterious influence the tribe commenced to rapidly dissolve itself their inhabitants taken away from the villages were disseminated through all the soys of the rubber estates on the Masagana and as far as the Kandaeas where most of them died of ovaria and defluxo diseases which amongst the Indians of the Amazon assume the proportions of a terrible epidemic and cause enormous mortality in February 1913 at Maneos where I had arrived from Rio de Janeiro I learned that a couple of young Atakimi boys had been taken to Belém do para by the owner of a rubber estate on the Masagana it was necessary to hand them back to their tribe and family and for this reason I demanded and obtained through the inspectorate of the service for the protection of the Indians in that city police intervention which caused the boys to be taken out of the hands of their detainer abuses of the nature of those to which I have just referred unfortunately occur in our country more frequently than one would in fact in as much as we being a duly organized nation the authorities should know that the first and the most noble of all their duties is to afford protection to those of their compatriots who by reason of their weakness or ignorance may be exposed to violent treatment dispensed openly or otherwise by individuals or groups of individuals who are powerful and pre potent as evidence of what I have stated I will mention that on the same occasion and whilst in Maneus I was obliged to demand the assistance of the police of the state of Amazonas to stop the Frenchman Labadi ex-chief of the Mollard mission from leaving for Europe taking with him as he had intended an Indian of the Wapochana tribe whom he had brought from the upper Rio Branco having succeeded in this I left Maneus taking the protection of the Jamari whilst I was ascending the Madeira from all sides I received complaints that various families withheld in their power many adikemi children then I went to fetch them and took them with me and continued the voyage taking them back to their villages which I was determined to reconstitute and protect amongst these children those named Pariba, Poroya and Antina were handed over seriously ill so much so that on arriving at my camp in the Torno Largo on the Jamari I had to leave them in charge of the commission's physician from the camp I continued the journey upstream taking with me the Indian boys Opuna and Patama on the 8th of March I took out from a launch belonging to some rubber tappers who were coming downstream a group of 16 Indians amongst whom was the mother of these boys the poor woman appeared to have gone mad with joy at seeing her sons who had been snatched away from her and whom she had thought lost forever the last part of the voyage by land was most arduous it rained incessantly and the Indians sick and worn out could scarcely walk finally we arrived at their villages the state of misery which I there encountered was enough to make the hearts even of the most hard-hearted bleed many of them had been destroyed by fire the plantations and barns had been sacked and robbed the women kidnapped and outraged the children had been stolen and carried away sickness hitherto unknown had appeared and was causing a mortality never before seen in fact the tribe which at the moment of entry into relations with the rubber was at least 600 in number could now scarcely muster more than 60 I do not wish however to delay in contemplating this picture more than sad, depressive and why not say it a shameful example of the perverse and destructive ferocity which assails civilized men when they have not the break of a human ideal civic and planetary capable of directing them and moralizing the employment of the enormous forces which science and industry placed in their hands leaving them however the liberty to judge according to their sentiments and to their intentions the choice to apply them to good or evil End of Section 20 Section 21 the Roosevelt Rondon Scientific Expedition and the Telegraph Lines Commission this is a LibriVox recording all LibriVox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org Recording by Rita Butros The Roosevelt Rondon Scientific Expedition and the Telegraph Lines Commission by Candido Mariano da Silva Rondon Translation by Richard George Reedy and Edwin Douglas Murray Third lecture Part 8 I prefer to tell you a little which will permit you to know more or less the misery and wildness of the Atikimi Nation in their territory reduced to ruins between the Masengana and the Kendeyes there still existed at the time of my visit four villages I went to those which were directed by the chiefs or upos to Tonha, Pioia and Kuraki the other which I did not see was governed by Upo Pindoro Each one consisted of three large dwellings and of one pudiko or ranch destined to keep the articles of the religious cult of this nation the houses are formed like the shell of the tattoo one of its extremities however terminates in a kind of dome which presents the only aperture of the whole construction it is the entrance to the Atikimi hut 1 meter 70 centimeters high and 0.60 wide in this detail this hut appears like that of the Urumis but differs from that of the Nambuquatas and of the Kepakiri Uats who use two openings the framework of the houses is made with six posts standing at the extremities in two groups of equal number those of the same group are joined together by a cross piece which rests on two raising pieces placed at a height of 2 meters 0.50 and each pair of symmetrical posts of the two groups sustains the top of the building on these tops are passed from one side to the other flexible rods which are curved and give the dome form to the construction from the extremity of the roof to the ground there is a big arch reinforced in the upper part which serves to sustain the rods of the dome structure the coconut palm leaves with which they make the covering of the roof are placed diagonally on the rods and fastened to them with great art forming a completely united and closed surface in the interior of the houses may be seen not only the sleeping hammocks earthenware vases baskets, kalabashes and numerous other articles manufactured by the Arakemes but also the graves of their dead who are buried exactly under the hammock which they occupied during their lifetime the earthenware pots have all of them the shape of the body of a cone some are large called burro 1 meter high and 50 centimeters wide at the mouth and others much smaller called ikoyo in each house there were always to be found the first kind and three of the second full of toto a fermentated beverage made from corn or manioc there is also a long trough of 4 meters 40 inches length with a width of 28 centimeters cut out of a special sort of wood it serves to break up the corn and to mash up the manioc root which is carried out with the assistance of a stone or granite grinder I have an elliptical shape whose axis measures at the longest portion 0.40 and 0.22 at the shortest I have already referred to the pudiko or hut especially consecrated to the religious cult of the Arakemes I will now describe same on entering one of these houses one finds a hammock at embe made out of cotton cloth whose exceptional whiteness is immediately noticed and which is carefully and intentionally maintained the hammock is stretched in the direction of the roof of the pudiko heaped with ornaments of feathers from the red arara and trinkets of polished shells displayed in triangles of small circles from the roof hangs down over it the skin of a spotted jaguar stretched out with rods and full of feather ornaments still in the roof are to be seen in total pieces of wood used for producing fire wrapped round with cord a dark polished stone in the shape of a trihedral sphere a small axe pute idiao made of stone and numerous polished shells on the walls bundles of old bows and arrows which belong to some veteran dweller of the village and still more arrows with bamboo points very much like those used by the katapunas and the patentintins from whom probably they had been taken in warfare the principal object in this place is the hammock nevertheless on first examination nothing more can be seen than two bundles one along one and the other shaped like a cap terminating in a point and so large that if placed on the head of any man it would descend over his face down to his chin these are carefully rolled up in the wide inner bark of a certain tree which is known to the indians under the name of evo tuera the long volume is simply placed at the back of the hammock the other however is sewn to the ladder so as to keep the upper part of same on top of the two volumes so zealously guarded one the long one encloses the bones of the body of an adakime hero and the round one contains his skull on examining the pudiko carefully we will observe that there are preserved all the spoils of the hero his hair divided into two plates hang down on the outside of each end of the hammock and the teeth in the interior of a small basket or chiro pamoita is suspended from the roof over the same death bed the use of a special house dedicated to religious practices is not familiar only to the adakimes even in the wilds of northwest mato grosso there are two other tribes the parises and the kepakiri wats who possess same but the special form of this cult so manifestly dedicated to the memory of a hero this yes I believe to be exclusively practiced by this nation and I even think that in the whole of America there has not been registered any other case such as this makes us remember the celebrated theory of ever met us individually considered the adakimes present varied and different grades of color which run from the well-defined bronze as for example of the chief titunha up to the Japanese yellow which we saw in the Indian woman aranjo some of them were very dark or avayunas like the boy apuña and others were very light in color or avadjus like the chief kuraki their stomachs are very much developed aquiline noses with a depression in the upper part their eyes are small and very black sharp and oblique as in the same Indian woman aranjo which are characteristically Japanese a sclerotic yellow eyebrows and eyelashes not abundant the hair is very fine and silky the teeth might denounce a remote European cross their hands are of an average size badly shaped long fingers nails like those of the nambiquaras large feet with the big toe wide open and the other toes very thick with flat nails the teeth are generally in good condition although imperfectly disposed in their maxillaries almost invariably one on top of the other long and exceeding the upper only the men pierce their ears in the earlobe and place therein small twigs or feathers they do not pierce their lips or their noses they paint their bodies with urukum and jennipappu they do not pull out their hair or cut their moustaches or the beard on their chins before they get into relations with civilized people they wear their hair long all the members both male and female of this tribe use garters made out of plated cotton yarn, pio picaturo above their ankles they eat soft corn manioc, monkey nuts bananas, papayas wild fruit, game and fish they are very intelligent of a kindly disposition and not warlike they learn our language very easily and rapidly this in a few words is the adikimi tribe the remains of which the telegraph commission succeeded in saving from general destruction to which it was condemned owing to the influence of the bad elements to which I have already alluded in order to attain our object the commission gave them near the last station on the jamari the lands which they required in order to establish their villages and plantations there they are now settled and live peacefully occupied in recovering from their past misfortunes and preparing themselves to enjoy the advantages of our civilization which they endeavor to understand and assimilate one of the chiefs wishing to hasten the advent of the era of the redemption of the adikimi people asked me to educate one of his sons according to our system exceeding to this request I brought his boy he will be included in the list of scholars at the professional institution of sao jose many people in this capital in kambukira and in other places know the boy pariba and when they hear him talking so easily and correctly in portuguese as if he had learned same from his mother when they see his gentle and polite manners when they see the vacity of his intelligence and paused conversation the sweetness of his frank and liberal nature it will be difficult for them to believe that scarcely two years ago he lived in the backwoods of a virgin forest forming an integral part of a tribe of miserable indians unknown persecuted and massacred cases like this boys are numerous and common not only among the adikimes but also amongst other indians of brazil those who are acquainted with them know by experience that the dispositions both moral and mental of which they are doded present the most admirable facilities for the modifying action which well-intentioned people may intend to exercise over them in the sense of inducing them to abandon their old habits and accept those common to us the essential thing is to merit and inspire confidence once this is obtained the road is prepared for their veneration which in them is intense and strong and which once awakened begins immediately to produce its known fruits for they are prone to imitate all they see and admire in the object of their veneration we however cannot be more lengthy in the appreciation of these facts the road still long over which we have to pass in order to review all the corners of the wilderness opened up by the telegraph line commission let us therefore descend from the jamari to the madiera and having arrived at the ladder let us continue to descend it the first mouth of importance which we strike is that of the Giparana also called Machado do Mar we can say that we already know so often and so repeatedly have we been referring to it in the course of these lectures we need not recall how it is represented in the geographical charts of Pimenta Bueno Rio Branco and Horace Williams we have already seen that in all these maps while profoundly divergent from one another the only thing that is to be found is the position of the mouth and its name even this is subject to a restriction because the last of the writers cited inscribes at the spot which should contain the double denomination gi or machado the word I shall thus limit myself to giving a rapid description of its course such as it is and as it has become known after being studied in its whole length by the telegraph line's commission at Campos do Camemoracio de Floriano the admirable springs of three great hydrographical basins of the Guapore, de Madeira and the Tavallos laying at an altitude of an average of 630 meters above sea level two rivers rise and as they were yet unknown at the time received from the members of the 1909 expedition one the same name of the Campos and the other both run down almost together from the station of Viljena and in the direction of northwest from a spot a little before the meridian 17 degrees to that of 18 degrees where at a point above the parallel 12 degrees they unite and thus form the upper the first one of a lesser volume of water and having its source lowered down is the more eastern the other more important than the former starts under the name of Piroculuina which was given to it also in 1909 and in its turn is the result of the junction of two branches respectively noted under the Kepakiri Uat names of Dijaru Juberara Red River and Dijaru Uerebe brilliant river or shiny river after its formation the gui penetrates into the section of the meridians 18 degrees and 19 degrees west of Rio de Janeiro at first it continues to run in a northwesterly direction soon after however it directs its course due north and thus maintains it up to parallel 10 degrees then it descends one more degree bending towards the east reaching the latitude 9 degrees but when it is about to pass this latitude it abandons abruptly the direction in which it had been flowing and again throws its course to the north west it rapidly crosses the meridian 19 degrees and reaches the Madeira before attaining that of 20 degrees at a point close on to parallel 8 degrees a noteworthy fact is that during such a long course the gui receives on its right bank only 2 affluence of any importance namely the rivers called San Jueio and Taruma and it is also remarkable that beyond this singularity the bar of the first mentioned is exactly on the apex of the elbow formed by reason of the abrupt change of direction from north northeast to northwest in contrast with this we have an abundance of affluence on the left bank in the gap comprised between the two main feeders the Camemoracio de Floriano and the Pimenta Bueno appears the Barreo del Melgaso already known to us after the junction of the two feeders we meet first the Luis de Albuquerque inhabited by the Oatu Rambo tribe and then the bar of the former San Pedro or Rolem de Mura a river of still dark waters into which run two others the Antonio Hoaio and the Anta Aterada the more important of the two is the Rolem de Mura properly denominated Dejaru Uwara by the Kepakiri Uwats who also gave me the name of Kepua as the designation of the tribe which lives there the San Pedro is followed by the former Muki the bank of the La Cerda y la Mieda the Luis de Alincor the Acanga Peranga and of the Ricardo Franco which is the principal branch below the mouth of which the Uwaku Cup Indians are settled according to the information of the said Kepakiri Uwats Descending further we meet the Urapa the Igarape the Boa Vista Dejaru with which we are acquainted and others which have not yet been mentioned namely the Anari the Machadinho the Juroa Sinho and finally on arriving at the Madiera the Rio Preto if we consider these indications in connection with those which we have already given in treating of the construction we will see that the Valley of the Giparana may be estimated as one of the richest and most varied ethnographical centers of the whole world there we meet the civilized men handling such remarkable and perfect implements of the industries of our days as the telegraph and gas motors beside the uncultured Caboclo the tame and half civilized Indian the aborigines scarcely initiated in the first steps of relationship with us the wild Indian not yet reached and even finally the almost extinct cannibal one might say that chance had made it a point to assemble in that strip of land a multiplicity of aspects under which nature manifests herself a little everywhere in the soil we find gold and mercury diamonds and granite the majestic forests covered with precious essences are rich even as compared with the prodigious resources of the Amazon forests but in certain places fall off to harsh and desolate jungles and in others opening up into level camps covered with beautiful grasses and this multiplicity of aspects is so great that we cannot think of detailing same even with regard to the population many nuclei remain to be mentioned we have said nothing for example of the Yuromis inhabitants of the valley of the Taruma the river which collects on its right bank halfway up its total course and of the Patentintins a war like tribe whose pacification we are promoting with the promised success of a near victory and whose villages are to be found in a portion of the natural camps which extend to the right in the direction of the river Roosevelt cut by the Marmelos and the Manicore direct affluence of the Madiera end of section 21 section 22 of the Roosevelt Rondon scientific expedition and the telegraph line commission this is a LibriVox recording all LibriVox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org the Roosevelt Rondon scientific expedition and the telegraph line commission by Candido Rondon translated by R.G. Reedy and Edwin Murray third lecture, part nine such a vast subject cannot evidently be included in the review of a rapid exposition like this we will therefore retrace our steps and re-ascend the course of the guy up to its vast headwaters in the Composte Kame Maracau de Floriano there we will see still the sources of two more rivers of the hydrographical basin which we are now examining one is the Roosevelt and the other the Ananas a name which had scarcely commenced to figure in the geography of Brazil when it had to be changed through what painful misfortune we already know in order to give place to the perpetuation of the memory of the unfortunate Lieutenant Marquez de Souza in the lectures relative to the work of the Roosevelt expedition we described the first one minutely with regard to the second in spite of the fact that we had not considered same in such detail we judged that all the allusions made to it in various places in these lectures and more especially in that which relates to the discovery of the river Capitao Cardoso are sufficient to make known the essential characteristics of its course we would still have to mention the principal episodes of the voyage so full of hardships and difficulties during the exploration which was being directed and carried out by Lieutenant Marquez de Souza with that great technical competency and high moral character which we all know at least those who had the fortune of being his friends and companions of work accustomed to admire all the acts of his professional and private life as however had the good fortune to find in worthy friends belonging to the staff of the journal de commercial full sympathy with the desire which we nourished to be still on the memory of our much regretted companion one of the many homages of which we recognize we are indebted we are placed in a position to offer to the appreciation of the public in the columns of that respected organ of the daily press of this city a minute narrative from the diary which Lieutenant Marquez de Souza himself had written of all the facts that formed the history of that unfortunate expedition it is unnecessary therefore to repeat here in a simple and incomplete summary the principal facts of that narrative which will be engraved in the hearts of all Brazilians with the bright colors of the picture with which we know how to perpetuate the memory of those of our compatriots who dignifying and honoring human nature incorporate themselves into the eternally glorious cohort of the heroes who personify the soul of our country we can thus transport ourselves to other zones of the great wilderness which we are studying in these rapid notes let us therefore march to the south without however deviating ourselves from the meridian in which are to be found the sources of the river Tenente Marquez de Souza having journeyed not more than two leagues we then cross the course of a new river the Ike and afterwards successively that of the Toloyri the Doze de Otubro the Nambikara and the Kamarare known prior to the 1909 expedition and noted in the geographical charts as a tributary of the left bank of the Huruena at the point corresponding to latitude 12 degrees 53 minutes 52 seconds and longitude 16 degrees 43 minutes 2 seconds since that year we recognized that another river also discovered by us and crossed in latitude 12 degrees 54 minutes 14 seconds and longitude 16 degrees 31 minutes 55 seconds flowed to the right into the said Kamarare we named it at the time Kamararezino or in the Parisi language Sokamarareza which it still maintains with regard to the four previously mentioned I remained at first in doubt as to whether the Nambikaras would be the tributary of the Kamarare or of the Doze de Otubro but I was always certain that the latter received on the left bank of the Ike and before it Toloyri Anyhow, what immediately was self-evident was the preponderance of the Doze de Otubro a river which descending from the opposite side to that of the principal headwaters of the Guy Paraná the already named Pirokuluena appeared to us to have its course independent not only of the basin of the said Guy but also of that of the Huruena observing that the enormous space between the meridians of 17 and 19 degrees and the parallels of 11 and 9 degrees in which the chart of Pimenta Bueno and others more recent figure four headwaters of the Guy which we have just verified do not exist remained entirely empty we formulated the hypothesis that along it should stretch the valley of a long river of which our Doze de Otubro would only be the extreme meridional portion like every reasonable hypothesis this one could and should be verified in order to carry this out I entrusted same to Lieutenant Julio Caetano Horta Barbosa giving him as assistance the inspector of telegraphs Francisco Mascareñas Joaquim Sol and five regional volunteers of the 5th Battalion of Engineers the expedition left from the highest headwaters of the EK and the surroundings of the portion of the telegraph line laid between Vilena and Jose Bonifacio at a point in which the river presented a width of 5 meters and an average depth of 15 centimeters and a discharge per second of 2222 liters by the plan previously drawn out the journey should be made by land along the river up to the point where it should become favorable for navigation but as the men for the yaks cutting work were not as numerous as this hard work exacted for the felling of trees in the virgin forest necessary in order to give passage to the pack animals Lieutenant Julio Caetano was obliged to commence the transport by water before the EK became navigable thus in July 1912 the voyage commenced by land and from August 4th onward was carried out partly in canoes and partly on foot but immediately the possibility offered itself the expedition embarked and thus came out at the city of Santarem in Pará having taken close on 5 months from the day on which they had interned themselves in the forest the essential result of the expedition was to destroy the hypothesis which had been formulated with regard to the course of the Otubro because the EK after receiving the waters of a few rivers inclined itself still further towards the east and thus flowed until it met it a little after this union the dosa de Otubro entered into the Kamara Ray whence its waters are taken to the Huruena, Tapajós and therefore to the Amazon if we now wish to have an idea of the enormous amount which had to be displayed by the young officer of our army to conduct to a good end this formidable campaign of 5 months of struggle against the brutal resistance of the hard and threatening nature of the wilderness through which he had to take his men we will proceed to read a few topics of the report which he himself made on the march of his expedition after telling you how he constructed his first two canoes on the banks of the EK both of Cedarwood with a length of little less than 10 meters and a width of the first 50 centimeters and the other 40 he says quote right in the first days I verified that of the advantages with which I had counted descending the river embarked only one remained to me which however justified by itself alone the resolution which I took the facility of transportation the progress of the work continued to be very small and it even happened that we came down to 350 meters of advancement in a whole day of tireless effort the work of the axe did not diminish and on the contrary it became more hard because it had to be carried out mostly in water the river extraordinarily blocked with very sharp curves afforded with difficulty a passage for the canoes and numerous waterfalls obliged us almost daily to discharge the baggage and transport same on our shoulders below the rapids retarding our journey and making it still more troublesome at the waterfall we had to pass the canoes by hand now over the stones now over rollers and even at times we had to take them out of the water these obstacles alone quite natural to the service which I was commencing but which I had not foreseen due to want of experience justify that working all day long with the greatest effort we did not attain an average of one kilometer per day during the first month of the service besides this sickness and accidents cropped up on the 18th of August I had one of my work men inutilized as he had wounded the big toe of his right foot the oak of the axe which almost severed it in two it being necessary to amputate it which I had done with a Gillette blade for the want of a better instrument before the wound healed another man suffered the same mishap the most serious was however that which occurred on the 22nd of September the victim being a man who was cutting a palmito for our evening meal and he did this so unfortunately knocked down by the palm tree which caused internal ruptures of which he died six days afterwards that is on the 28th of September carrying this unfortunate companion of toil with every care it was possible to bestow upon him in the situation in which we found ourselves we buried him at the spot where he died and over his grave we placed a cross with an inscription our party therefore became reduced to seven men including myself and of the work men only one the regional volunteer Manuel Pedro Gonzales was well and quote now let us see a few parts of the description which Lieutenant Julio Cayetano makes of the natural aspects of the river explored quote the ek he says flows in the wood for 20 kilometers where the compost indigenous mass commenced to appear on the right firstly at 27 kilometers they occur also on the left these camps sometimes depart from and sometimes approach the banks scarcely ever meeting the river its bed is stony all along and the banks now fear mace now marshy are abundant with palm trees principally anaha, buriti, burakuri, tukum, patua, asahi, bakaba, pacheyuba, etc according to the nature of the soil it is poor in rubber trees we met however with a few here and there but there are sufficient cedar, guanandi, favero, hatoba, pau brazil, suviera, etc on its banks salsa perilla and a lot of kanganga are to be found the compost indigenous mass extend downstream and crossing same at nearly 24 kilometers we came across a serrado extending out of sight and quote after referring to various important features of the river affluence, waterfalls and rapids whose technical elements were conveniently noted and the occurrences of the voyage such as shipwreck, loss of baggage and food and also of one of the canoes pennant Julio Ketano gives an account in the following words of the entrance of the Ikei into the Kamara Re and of the latter into the Huruena quote at 227 kilometers from the point of embarkation, the Ikei having then almost 30 meters width discharges its waters into the doze de otubro which has from 80 to 100 meters width and flows in the direction of 60 degrees southwest following same 1800 meters below is to be found the river Kamara Re which has approximately 120 meters of width and comes in the direction of 90 degrees west here commenced the large forests of Indians which follow the whole course of the river up to the Huruena and is to be found 267,400 meters away from the point of our departure end quote in order to finish these rapid illusions to the voyage of reconnaissance of the Ikei we shall still transcribe a topic of the report made by Lieutenant Julio Ketano treating of the Indian inhabitants of all the explored region quote on the 31st of October date of our arrival at the Huruena we had the pleasure of meeting the Nambikara Indians it was about 9.30 a.m. when we heard in the woods the noise of people throwing themselves off the trees and running I immediately ordered the canoe to be moored to the opposite bank we shouted to the Indians showing them axes, beads and cotton thread soon two of them appeared and I called them up showing them the presence at first they hesitated but afterwards they crossed the river and came to meet us the pleasure which we all felt was indescribable they seemed to us as friends expected after a long absence the joy they showed at meeting us was not less than ours they told us that they had come from afar and that they were going to compost novos in order to cross the river one of them placed under his arms two thin floaters made out of the Buriti palm while the other attaching himself firmly to the feet of the former by him to the place where we were we afterwards crossed over taking one in our canoe the other swam clinging to her bows on the bank where they were at first then appeared other Indians men and women who gave us tobacco honey and necklaces in exchange for what we had given them when we proceeded on our navigation one of the letter followed us along the woods advising others of our approach a little lower down where we halted for breakfast others came to meet us a man with his wife and a youth and further down still we met others to all of them I distributed presents end quote from the summary of the narrative above described it can be inferred that if a person should leave from the Madeira into the interior of the woods ascending the course of the Guy Parana or of the Roosevelt with the decision to reach the most easterly headwaters of any one of these rivers he would finally arrive at the meridian of 17 degrees between parallels 13 degrees and 12 degrees and could even cross it a few minutes further east however once he should have arrived there however little he should advance further east he would immediately commence to find waters taking the courses inscribed in the quadrant northeast the basin of the Madeira would therefore be ended and that of the Tapahos commenced as a line of division of the two basins we can take the meridian of the Valena station which is the same as that of Via Bea if the explorer should wish to proceed on his journey from this point by descending as far as the Huruena and then departing from its right bank as much as might be necessary to attain the farthest point of all those which mark the headwaters of the eastern catchment of the basement of the Tapahos he would see his wish satisfied only when having come to the end of a journey of approximately 1000 kilometers he would arrive in the vicinity of the spot once the Hingu emanates the fact is that the Tapahos is like a prodigious vine whose trunk advances into the interior of the lands at a point before the parallel of three degrees up to a spot more than half way between those of 14 degrees and of 15 degrees throwing off to one and the other side powerful branches some extending beyond the meridian of 16 degrees and others longer more numerous and stronger which from the opposite side almost succeed in touching on the meridian of 11 degrees if we consider the enormous area generated and covered by the network generated by these branches which in their turn also divide and subdivide themselves into branches and subbranches and if we remember that in them the movement of the water occurs in a contrary sense to that which occurs in the real vines we shall see that the Tapahos as a collector of the features of so vast a region must necessarily assume that status full of majesty assures to it a distinguished place among the largest rivers of the world this majesty if it contributed to consolidate the fame which since colonial days is attributed to the name of the great tributary of the Amazon it was not however a sufficient stimulus for some of those enterprising spirits who have devoted themselves to the study of the geography of our country to decide to carry out a scientific exploration of the whole of its course the telegraph lines commission was to bear the brunt of making up for such a failing not only in regard to the Tapahos itself but also in respect to its most important tributaries of the right bank for a realization of the first part of the program a scientific expedition was organized in 1911 under the direction of captain Manuel Theofilo de Costa Pinero assisted by the botanist Frederick Owen and Dr. Murillo de Campos on the 28th of December having terminated the necessary preparations for the voyage the members of the expedition 14 in number took their places in five canoes and commenced to descend the Hurawena leaving the place where it is cut by the telegraph line track a spot which we reached for the first time in 1907 and since 1908 we have occupied with a military detachment alas how many deep modifications had taken place in this corner of the great wilderness which in those years we had found emerged in the most absolute and hostile savagery the same inhabitants of those then mysterious lonesome spots who had received us in war like attitude and so ignorantly repelled into audacious assaults the friendship which we offered them are now here represented by a group of the so called cocoses who had come to assist in the last arrangements of our expeditionary column they are no longer the hard warriors of those days but yes trusting friends who were desirous of participating in the risks and the dangers which we were about to face for the first time in the descent of this famous river and the vast access they had formally defended was such staunch bravery unfortunately the total absence of accommodation of which the small craft was suffering already excessively overcharged with quantities of baggage provisions, implements and engineering instruments obliged us to refuse the request which they made to accompany us afterwards already on the voyage the members of the expedition had further occasion of finding themselves in the midst of other groups of the formerly so much feared non-Bikara nation quote every now and again says Captain Costa Pinheiro in his report on this expedition on both banks of the river we noticed large openings in the woods which indicated their plantations to us landing stages on both sides of the river corresponding to one another primitive rafts of Buriti palm leaves bound together on which they used to cross from one side of the river to the other finally we even found their war implements on the 31st of December a little before mid-day I was at the mouth of the Huina taking observations from the sun when I heard on the opposite bank some yells I listened attentively and distinguished the word on a way repeated incessantly there was no doubt they were non-Bikaras we all went to the bank of the river and saw some of them completely naked always crying out on a way and showing us corn cobs perfectly understanding their intention towards us I manned a canoe and sent it to the other bank as the canoe drew near some of them hid in the woods but four of them came to receive us handing us some corn cobs for a tribution of this we gave them some hatchets the sole gifts which we had with us they were extremely satisfied end quote besides the non-Bikaras Captain Pinheiro also referred to the apiakas it is as well to read out some passages of what the distinguished officer had to say at the time in order that we may lift a little of the edge of the veil which hides from our sight the realities of the territory of our country quote of the apiakas writes Captain Pinheiro whom we were sure we would meet in the Salto Augusto we could not even see traces in short only at the revenue office of Mato Grosso at Sao Manuel did we succeed in meeting the first apiakas already then almost civilized it was in talking with the Mato Grosso collector and other persons of the locality that I came to learn how the apiakas Indians had disappeared from Salto Augusto and other points of the Sao Manuel the revenue office of Mato Grosso was established in 1902 the first collector was Mr. Tomas Carnero who commenced his administration by entering immediately into a quarrel with the apiakas and persecuted them cruelly so many were the punishments and ill treatments inflicted on the Indians not only by himself but also by his brother Ernesto Carnero commander of the detachment of police that their revenge was not long in coming with the intention of taking a just revenge the apiakas assembled one day in the neighborhood of this place and in the dead of night without being suspected penetrated into the revenue office and killed the collector and his brother in order to take the place of Mr. Tomas Carnero Mr. Fabio Ferrer was appointed and the latter continued with a series of persecutions against the Indians stating that he wished in this way to avenge the death of his predecessor once he caused the apiakas to be invited to take coffee the Indians in good faith while rather suspicious of the invitation and when they were in the barakau store taking that beverage Mr. Ferrer availing himself of the detachment at the service of the revenue office which had been previously equipped and prepared ordered them to fire thus killing nearly all of them a woman was the only survivor to this day anyone going to the revenue office can see right in front of a barakau store Mr. Ferrer once served as the barracks the place where they were all buried in one grave after this feat Mr. Ferrer assembled nearly 100 men between rubber tappers and the personnel of the revenue office and conducted an assault against an old Maloca which existed at the old Cachoeira de South Florencia the assault took place very early when the apiakas were yet inside their Maloca as the Indians frightened by the fire came running out gesticulating and crying out exclamations they were received with shots few of them escaped to this day whoever may pass by the Cachoeira de South Florencia can see already faded the signs of this work of dismantlement and destruction Mr. Fabio Ferrer was substituted by Mr. Antonio Gomez de Lima who remained there for about three years having been considered by all as a good tax collector he was substituted by Mr. Paulo Correa who continued the persecution of the apiakas and committed all sorts of violence against the rubber tappers he prohibited, in an irrevocable manner the apiakas from descending the river so far as Sao Manuel those who transgressed his orders were severely punished finally the persecutions against the apiakas and the rubber tappers assumed such proportions that one day Mr. Paulo Correa was assassinated by his own followers he was substituted by Mr. Sotero Barreto who re-established normal conditions and inaugurated an era of peace and prosperity for the revenue station as it is easy to surmise the apiakas pressed hard persecuted and subject to the violent treatment of the civilized people and turned themselves into the forests and abandoned the banks of the Huruena the few of them who remained nearer in contact with the rubber tappers returned to the revenue station and are now there up to this day content with the protection which is offered them by the collector when I went by there at the end of February of the current year that is to say of 1912 there were at the revenue station thirty-two apiaca Indians composed of sixteen women seven men and nine children as we can infer from these words of Captain Pinheiro the persecutions and violent treatment used against the undefended apiakas by various public officials of the state of Mato Grosso on the Tapa Hose transposed the limits of the most wanton barbarity and the hardest cruelty but however dark this picture may appear to us it is well to know that it is yet wanting in many other tones no less tetrical than the former beginning with the baseness of the intentions which prompted the revenue collector Paolo Correa and his predecessors to commit such violence and atrocity the purpose was to rob the Indians of their wives besides the apiacas the expedition for the study of the Tapa Hose also met the Mundurukus some of whose villages were built at the mouth of the Sao Tome others and in the majority exist on the river Kuru Roo extending along the camps called Kapepe Uat they live there on the resources which they are able to provide by means of their small plantations assisted with the elements they obtain out of their magnificent forests the actual number of these Indians is estimated at about 2,000 souls the male portion being considerably greater than the female in the settlements of the Kapepe Uat the Franciscan friars Hugo and Luis Meus have just built a small chapel covered with pindoba leaves the two priests however were not present at the time that the botanist Hohen and Dr. Mario de Campos visited the place we can resume the other work done by the expedition under Captain Pinheiro by stating that it affected the rapid survey of the river from the telegraph station of Huruena up to Sao Manuel it calculated the discharge of the principal tributaries it determined the altitude of the different points of greater importance as also the coordinates of the Maus of the Huina Kamara Re Papagayo, Sangue and Arinos of the famous and beautiful Salto Augusto and of the mouth of the Sao Manuel a river which had become celebrated in the chronicles of the expeditions for the study of the territory of our country by the sad fact of the tragic death of Captain Telus Pires who in 1889 had undertaken to explore it accompanied by a friend and distinguished companion the engineer of our army Oscar de Miranda as a just but tardy homage to the illustrious memory of this unfortunate officer who lost his life in the midst of the hard work which he had commenced and with which he was proceeding animated only by the thought and the desire of contributing to the aggrandizement of his beloved country and the appreciation of the Brazilian geographers the idea of naming this river Captain Telus Pires and as sad fatality had fixed forever the ties which friendship and good comradeship had established between this officer and his illustrious companion of work and of suffering associating the two names so intimately that it is not now possible for any one to remember one without immediately having the other name I propose further that the waterfall where the sad shipwreck took place be called after the name of Oscar de Miranda the future of this modest remembrance but most sincere and still more merited homage would certainly be very precarious if in order to help it and recommend it to the appreciation of my co-citizens one should not have to count with the resolution of the wish of a worthy collectivity generally respected in the circles in which it should have to be launched and cultivated until it produced the fruits expected of it fortunately however we others, admirers of the names of which we intend to make a cult can appeal to the geographical society of Rio de Janeiro asking it to adopt as its own this double proposal and to protect it with the same kindness and fervor which it dispensed to the organization of that bold undertaking born of the civic enthusiasm which in the years nearest to the advent of the republic inflamed the souls of the youth of our army and irradiated from same causing to spring up associations of such beauty as that of the triumvirate formed by Captain Telus Pires with the lieutenants which they were at that period Oscar de Miranda and Jimeno Villoroy full of hope that the support asked for will not fail us and convinced that it, once at large, will immediately secure the victory which is desired we shall no longer refer to the feeder of the Tapajós under any other name than the river Capitao Telus Pires another important result of Costa Pinheiro's expedition has yet to be considered by us in regard to the mouth of this river and the comparison of its volume with that of the Rinos and of the Huruena. The first discoverers of the Tapajós and its immediate navigators considered it as being formed from part of the trunk comprised from the mouth in the Amazon up to a point in which this trunk divides itself into two branches, one which continues in the general direction of the previous course and the other whose bed one sees laying in a sense most accentuatedly deviated to the east to this last in olden times the denomination of Trés Barras or Sao Manuel was given this is our Telus Pires the other received the name of Huruena and with it continued as far as the upper headwaters in the Chapadao Plateau dos Paracés the dwellers on the banks of the Tapajós consulted by Captain Costa Pinheiro still conserved this tradition for them the Tapajós commences at the confluence of the Huruena with the Telus Pires the modern geographers however accepted Pimenta Buenos theory published in his map of Motogrosso which consists in making the name of Huruena die at the mouth of the Arinos the Tapajós therefore figuring as the result of the concourse of the waters which descend united from that Amazon a similar modification which contradicts the historic tradition to be found in the chronicles of the two past centuries and the indications of a riparian population and of all the navigators ancient and modern are not supported by any reason of an order superior to these elements at the point in which the Huruena receives the Arinos Captain Pinheiro verified its discharge at 775 cubic meters its bed having a width of 1080 meters the measurements did not give for the discharge of the Arinos more than 1283 meters and the width of 734 meters comparing these elements it is easily seen that there is no reason for these two rivers to be considered there equal to one another the power of one does not present itself in conditions to be utilized by the other so as to give place to the appearance of a new geographical feature exacting also a new name the direction which the Huruena took continues from there downstream the volume is superior to that of the Arinos therefore it is perfectly plausible to consider this as a tributary of the other which name should be conserved and prolonged at least as far as the mouth of the Ariris the Tapahos is therefore formed by the Union of the Waters of the Old Salmanwell with those of the Huruena the first contributes in each second for its formation with a volume of 1,747 meters cube and the second with that of 2,489 in accordance with these conclusions the real course of the river studied by Captain the Ana Uina of the Paracis will have an extension of almost 1,000 kilometers of which the first 207 which go from the headwaters in the Sierra Dos Paracis close to the sources of the Guapore as far as the telegraph station in latitude of south 12 degrees 50 minutes 31.4 seconds and longitude west of Rio de Janeiro 15 degrees 44 minutes 50.4 seconds have not yet been surveyed or traversed in the section of 792,872 meters explored by Captain Pinheiro's expedition the Huruena receives through its right bank successively from above to below the rivers Papagayo, Sangue and Arinos each one of these affluence constitutes a central collector of the Paracisan sufficiently remarkable whose complete description can only be made after terminating during the current year the conjoined efforts which in this connection the telegraph lines commission developed with regard to the first of these collectors the Papagayo or the Sarawina the principal headwaters rise in latitude 14 degrees 30 minutes and in longitude 15 degrees 50 minutes where it runs in a contrary direction to the most northerly branch of the Huru we saw how the reconnaissance of the part of its course which was yet to be studied below the station of Utiariti was affected in 1914 by the Lauriodo Fiala party of the Roosevelt Rondon scientific expedition on the left and after the station of Utiariti the Papagayo receives the Utiariti and immediately afterwards the Sarawina or the river Maracana with regard to which we had made the mistake in seeing in the geographical conclusions of the volume already published of our report on the studies and reconnaissance that it was the direct affluent of the Huruena the correction which I leave here consigned is a result of the work of the above mentioned Lauriodo Fiala expedition on the right the river Papagayo receives after the station of Utiariti but before the mouth of the Buriti the river Sacre or Timalatiya which comes to it engrossed by its feeder the river Verde or as the Pharisees call it the Tarhuruina this affluent of the Sacre marks the eastern limit of the sub-basin of the Papagayo it did not figure in any geographical chart before the work of the Telegraph Lines Commission and must also not be mistaken for the Agua Verde or the Anjana Zah feeder to the Arenos which was erroneously inscribed by Father Badariot in the sketch of a chart which accompanied his memorial entitled the expedition of the north of Matogrosso, 1898 as one of the feeders of the Hakeruina giving it the name of River Verde the river Karavari or Kukuru Inasa which in the geographical conclusions of my eluded report is described as an affluent of the right bank of the Sacre was subsequently recognized by us as belonging to the second of the above mentioned sub-basins tributaries to the Huruina this sub-basin has as its principal collector the river Sanghe or Soutia Haruina which before taking the waters of the Kravari received through its opposite bank that is to say by the right of the Sacruina a river to which the old charts referred under the name of Sacruina inscribing it before Pimenta Bueno as the tributary of the Arenos Ricardo Franco himself was undecided on the face of the diverging information which he obtained on same of which some gave it as an affluent of the Huruina and others as of the Arenos where he would arrive by means of the Sumiduro End of section 22