 Bonjour et bienvenue, this is La Modeliste and welcome back to my channel. In today's tutorial, I'm going to demonstrate how to sew the Mugler hoodie jacket for which we created patterns in the previous tutorial. Throughout this guide, you'll also acquire various sewing techniques and hacks to help you in your future sewing projects. By the way, I'll be demonstrating some of the sewing steps using a different fabric so you can clearly see the process in the video. So get your patterns and your sewing machines ready and let's dive in. For the corset patterns and panels, I've used 4.8 of an inch or 1.27 centimeters for the sewing allowances. For the hem, I didn't use any sewing allowances because I will bind the hem with a bias tape. For the center back panel, I decreased the measurement by 4.8 of an inch to cinch the waist a bit. For the hoodie top pattern, I've duplicated it into two patterns. One pattern for the front, I've used 4.8 of an inch allowances all around except for the neckline. And one pattern for the back. This has the same sewing allowances like the front pattern. Only difference is it should be unfold at the center back. And on your patterns, do not forget to mark the plating references. For the sleeve, I've used 4.8 of an inch or 1.27 centimeters all around except for the hem. For the hood pattern, I've used 4.8 of an inch or 1.27 centimeters at the top seam. And 2.8 of an inch or 0.6 centimeter at the facing and the neckline. And later, I will use an eyelet to insert at the facing for the drawstring. Make it sure to use the zipper that we used last time to draft the patterns. For sewing demonstration, I will use this thick shirt or knitted cotton. For the final garment, I've used a lightweight neoprene for the hoodie top only and one-way stretch lycra fabric for the corset only. I've also prepared bias loops for the back of the corset and a thick bias loop that will be used for the lace-up and as a drawstring. First things first, cut your hoodie top patterns on your fabric. And using your tailor's chalk, mark the plating references. And at the wrong side, draw the plating lines like so. And at the right side, fold the pleats. And pin everything in place at the wrong side. And do this as well for the back hoodie top. Next, simply sew the pleat according to its shape. So this is the back hoodie top with the pleats and the front hoodie pieces with the pleats. Next, sew the shoulder slope together. And after that, use a serger machine to overlock the shoulder slope seam. Next, push all of the seams towards the back side and topstitch the shoulder slope seam by two-eighths of an inch or 0.6 centimeter. Next, cut the sleeve and the hood patterns on your fabric. And attach the cap of the sleeve to the armhole of the hoodie top. And sew according to your sewing allowance. After that, search the armhole seam to overlock it. Next, because the sleeve is too long, I will decrease the measurement at the hem by three and a half inches or nine centimeters. After that, topstitch the seam at the sleeve side by two-eighths of an inch or 0.6 centimeter. Next, let's sew the underarm side seams together. Face it right side to right side and sew according to your sewing allowance. And later, give it a search to overlock the seams. So this is how the top will look like assembled with the sleeve. For the hood, make it sure to mark the placement for the eyelet and the facing notches. Next, face the hood right side to right side and sew the top seam. After sewing the top seam, don't forget to give it a search to overlock the seams. Next, push the seam at one side and topstitch by two-eighths of an inch or 0.6 centimeter. Next, mark in the width of the facing using your tailor's chop. And mark in the facing sewing allowances as well. We will use these marks as guides to press the facing off the hood. Next, I will insert the eyelet on the hood for the drawstring. Snip the marking making a tiny hole, get the eyelet and insert it to the hole at the right side of the fabric. At the wrong side, place in the lock of the eyelet. Using this tool, I will hammer this to the eyelet to close it permanently. Next, press the facing and its sewing allowance in words. So this is how it will look like. Next, sew at the edge or topstitch at the edge off the facing by one millimeter. So before attaching the hood at the neckline, at center front, mark in the sewing allowance for the zipper. And place the hood from edge to edge right next to the markings. And sew according to your sewing allowance. So in here, I've prepared a one inch thick bias tape to conceal the neckline seam. I am going to place the bias tape at the neckline seam and pin it in place. And sew in the bias tape. And this is how the neckline looks like. Very clean and professional finish. And here's how it looks like on the final garment with the hood attached. For the corset, I will only be demonstrating it one side. But in reality, we should cut the patterns times four on our fabric for the lining and the self. I've also notched the waist for sewing references. For the back panel, I cut it separately placing it on fold. I've also notched the width of the loop placements and notched the distance of each loops. Next, I will place the loops individually and pin everything in place. Next, sew the loops to secure. I've sewn the loops four eighths of an inch from the edge. And this is how the loops look like attached on the back panel. And I will attach the next panels, sandwiching the back panel. Pin both lining and self in place, sandwiching the back panel and sew accordingly. Next, sew the panels together as if fusing two fabrics into one. And press for a clean finish. And for the next panels, do the same sandwiching sewing procedure. So this is how the corset panels look like all attached together. Next, top stitch each seam by 3 eighths of an inch or one centimeter. These top stitches will act as the boning channeling for the corset. So this is how the final garment for the corset looks like. Next, it's time to attach the hoodie top to the corset. Pin the hoodie top to the corset and sew according to your sewing allowance. And next, push all of the sewing allowance towards the hoodie top. And top stitch by 2 eighths of an inch or 0.6 centimeter. So before we sew the zipper and bind the hem, let's insert the bones first onto the corset. After inserting the bones, we can now sew the bias tape at the hem. And here is the hem finish. Next up, let's attach the zipper to our garment. Next, open the zipper to separate. And match the mark at the zipper with the seam between the hoodie top and the corset. And pin in place. And sew the zipper to the hoodie corset according to your sewing allowance. Next, push all of the excess tab from the zipper inwards and sew in place to secure. Next, close the zipper and using your tailor's chalk, match and draw the marks to the other side of the zipper. And do the same procedure for the sewing. Next, top stitch at the zipper seam by 2 eighths of an inch or 0.6 centimeter on both sides. For the rib cuff, get a ribbing fabric and mark in the exact measurement of the wrist without any sewing allowances. Cut two pieces for the left and right sleeves. Pin in place and sew the seams by 2 eighths of an inch or 0.6 centimeter. And give the seams a press. And next, face the wrong sides of the rib cuff together and pin in place. When sewing, stretch the rib cuff and sew it by 2 eighths of an inch or 0.6 centimeter at the edge. And lastly, sew the ribbed cuffs to the sleeves and remember to stretch it out while sewing. So this is the front and the close up details. And this is the side view and this is the back and the close up details. Anyway guys, I hope this tutorial gave you enough tips on how to sew the hoodie corset. And if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to comment down below and I will reply as soon as possible. And if you're not subscribed yet to my youtube channel Lamo the Least, make sure to hit that subscribe button. And if you liked this video, give it a huge thumbs up and I will see you guys again on the next tutorial. Apiento!