 Today we've got a cooler that's warm. Got here, fans not running, sight glass is showing empty. So now we're gonna search for a leak so we can find. Something down there I don't like. Must be a big old monster leak for what's going off this far away. The field piece one's a little screwy compared to a D-TEC. I had a D-TEC before and it didn't act as weird as this one does. This one just always seems like it has to be taken away, has to wait extra long. It comes down to it. We're just gonna get the H10 out. I isolated that up there and started scanning around, but I found the real leakers right here. Never let you down. Let me see some oil being sprayed out. Get to where? That's leaking away from something. You can see it leaking right there. All right, got the pressure switch mounted up. Had to pump it down. The valve that was there, they put a T in there that doesn't have a depressor on it, so there's none in there. So had to put it into a timed off defrost which shut the solenoid valve is able to pump it down. Going to put some nylon on the back side of our flare nuts, tighten it up. Then we'll adjust the pressure in. Need to remount the fan cycle switch back to where it belongs. Didn't see no leaks on that. And then recharge this. Need to find out what refrigerant it is. It's got POE oil, but it's not marked. We did get the low pressure switch put in there. We got a, we use split, well it's regular tubing. I think quarter inch, eighth inch. And then we split up the razor knife and then wrap that around our capillary tube there for the control. That way it helps protect it from vibrating and then break and lose. We're just slowly getting it in here. And then once we do, like I've mentioned multiple times before, we'll add an extra 10 to 15 percent to that total amount to get it set up for winter charge. This has a fan cycle control. It does not have a headmaster control and it is obviously outside. Our total weight in the system is six pounds 10 ounces. Green total that comes up to 106 ounces. 106 ounces plus 15 percent, 16 more ounces. So we added an extra pound. As of right now, the super heat back here at the actual compressor is 20 degrees. The line is probably at least 25, 30 foot long. So we're looking good so far. Our cyclist has been staying full. Go down and check our TD across our evaporator. Time clock set correctly now. And go ahead and wrap this thing up. This is just a little bit of a hard spot to get to. She's dropping in temperature pretty quick. To me, like it's feeding pretty good. The compressor was just changed earlier this year. So this thing's already been running on the OE oil for a while. All right, we're fine tuning the fan control in. I've got to mount that once I get it back into place. We're bringing the fan on about 108 to 110 saturation, which is about 250th. And shutting off about a 90 area. Every chart I've ever seen has always told me that everything's based at 100 degree saturation temperature. I'm sure there's some that might be a little different out there. But it seems to have worked for me all these years. So it should show off when it hits down to about 90. My super heat's staying pretty steady. 17 on average. And then my saturation on my suction's been right in there. Yeah, it's right out about 90 area. And we're running about a 19 degree of out. Which will swing a little bit with this. And it's pretty warm in there. So those are going to drop. But that's a pretty basic, simple call here. Basically, we had a leak on the low pressure control. Unidentified refrigerant. It has PoE oil. The cooler's very old. So at this point, it's already having the PoE oil in it anyway. And you are just converting it. And that way it's cheaper than R22 for the customer. And everybody wins. Today we have a TXV to change out. So we've got the 38Os doing the recovery. Got our quarks ready to go there. And we're making use of the cool presser from SUPCO. This thing's pretty nifty. Puts a solid beam of water pretty much everywhere. All over the drum. We're doing 410A. And we're able to keep our pressures down. So we can make a quick recovery. It's designed to cool the compressor. If you have a compressor that's overheated. You can stick it right on top there. Just like that right there. And that gives you a solid stream of water all the way across. It has a magnet built into it. But it's a lot easier than holding it with a hose. It's magnetic. The hose is a little heavy. But it works out great for this. I've got a cooler for it. But this here will work just fine for me. This is the cool presser. Could be picked up at your local supply houses or online. It's made by SUPCO. Link in the description down below. If you like the video please like share and subscribe. Don't forget to check down below the links section. You'll find the email and all the tools that I use are all listed on there.