 All right, we're back on a different generator here. This one here had oil. Once again, similar to before when I found rings bad on the engine. We've got a little pile of it there, some there. Now you can see they've replaced a clamp already once so wanted to make sure it wasn't an issue with just that but I wouldn't explain why it would be up here in the top. We went ahead and got the spark plugs out. They went with Auto Lights, this last company that worked on it and that's not usually a brand that Generac uses. Check the gap on it on LP. I know in the past they had you kind of crunch them down a little bit and see what we got here. I got the fuel turned off. About 190, that's pretty typical. Lucky there. 162, 190. So, 70, 80, 90, 30 pounds off. I've never tried that before but it works. I went ahead and adjusted the valves. 100, lock it in, see what it does when it moves the cylinder. See what happens if you're not perfectly taught dead center. So it's leaking but it's not leaking below 20%. I like pushing down on it really tight. See if I can split the difference between going one direction and the other. There we go. Let's see how that does. So we were leaking a little bit around our gauge. So for the most part, our front's fine. We have no leakage. So our front's perfect. Our rear's got a little leakage. The rings are leaking by a little bit but they're in tolerance. This is why I don't like these stupid things. See, I don't fit. When you use the real gauge, it's 20,000s. Okay, I went ahead and blew everything out. Wiped all the oil up down there below there. Got a new battery in there and we're gonna start it up to see how the voltage and stuff is. I wanna see how it starts first. Got the LP gas on. See how the charge goes. You know, you don't know if the spark plugs are the right ones because they freaking thought they were smarter than the factory and started to go with other ones. See how the spark goes. So we got a decent spark there on that. Got a decent spark here. Basically by doing that, you're causing more suction in the engine. It pulls the fuel right in. Usually it'll start right up. Could have problems with the bellows on these. They call them gas valve. It ain't really a gas valve, gas solenoid. There's bellows in there. So it's like a negative pressure gas valve. The intake stroke, it tends to pull the fuel in. Those bellows open up and then that's when the gas comes through. So now we can get it started. Let's see what our voltage is. The people that installed this chopped off my wires that I used to hook my probes up to. So I had to take the cover off, which took more time. All right, so if you remember correctly, the problem here was the transformer was blown on the furnace and that's why they had no heat. Cramming 320-some volts into it. That probably is the reason why it went bad. I've seen this a million times. We can go through and do the fix excitation test, but the freaking voltage regulator's bad. We gotta order that. And it still don't fix the way it starts. A basic rundown of what we had here. This here was oily, but it wasn't pure oil. So we had a lot of condensation in there. Down below was probably an oil leak from the hose from previously and it probably blew off of the fittings. The compression is unequal. We have 160 on the back, 190 on the front. Our leak each through our rings. It came with 18% on the rear and five on the front. So we got a little bit there. That's probably how you're getting a little bit of oil in there. And it's mixing with the condensation, which made it look worse. What's up guys, heading to a call on a generator and a geothermal. I was on this call earlier a few months ago for a no-geek call. Found out why the transformer blew up on the geothermal. You can check out that link right up here right now. But basically the generator, when it kicked on when the power went out, was cranking out about 300 and some volts. Voltage regulator ended up being bad. And then the geothermal, we did the service on everything. And basically the temperature rise across the quacks coil seem to be a little bit low, which is usually an indication of low on charge. See how it there, it's okay. All right, so this is one of the older ones. On these older ones, they had a separate voltage regulator, battery charger, start contact or relay, step down, dual tapped freaking transformer. They got rid of all this stuff and put it into one integrated control module like Kohler was doing for quite a while. I have a feeling the fuel regulator sticking the diaphragm in there. Basically you've got two sensing wires, two wires go to your slip rings and then two wires coming in with your raw voltage. I've had a couple of these go bad and when they go bad, it seems to go catastrophic instead of just, you know, fail and don't work. That would be nice if it failed in the other direction. Problem is when you cram 300 some volts into a house, tends to blow everything up. The newer generators have got protection against that stuff. The old ones like this one had frequency and a few other things on it, but didn't protect against over voltage. And you gotta set the voltage on this when we're done because they come cranked down low. And I did try to adjust it, that's not the problem. These are usually a little more of a pain in the butt to find locally. You wouldn't think it, but it is. You can get them, you usually have to go with like an NKG or something like that, but I just find it easier that it was built with this. They build the engine. Well, I try to reinvent the wheel. We'll go ahead and put it at the factory default. Just to make sure we're not doing anything that's causing any issues, but put a little smear here of this. Well, as you can see, got the voltage set right. Need to check frequency too, this meter don't do it. I'll do that real quick, but it's literally mixture of snow and rain. Look at that, it's bouncing, awesome. Middle of May, May 11th, man, I love it. I love living here in Ohio, it's just wonderful. Okay, we are on LP gas, we're checking it. When it first came on, is it like 13.4 inch? It's supposed to be between 10 and 12. Let's see what we get. Pretty much maintained it and it dropped a touch. This is digital, so don't be going flipping out on me. Oh, it's going all this way and that way. It's not as quick responding. All right, so basically backed it out one full turn. It possibly keeps it from going over the pressure that they want, because what they claim is basically that if the pressure's too high, the solenoid's not strong enough to lift up the plunger. So we're gonna basically have him try that out. If the gas pressure's too high, the plunger supposedly can't lift up because the pressure coming down on top of the plunger is just too strong. So we've got it now that while it was cranking, it was averaging about no less than 10. Even when it was under load and running, it was around 10 and a half. So that should give us a little leeway. I still think probably a diaphragm on the fuel regulator there, which it ain't even really much of a regulator, but the bellows stick when it gets cold, known problem that no one wants to admit to that these had, especially with the, I call them the first generation, is the ones that basically, this is the first step in the right direction when they added the choked solenoid and the servo governor control. We're gonna go ahead and replace this line because it's gonna cut in it. Kinda cold, we've got colder. Fat number three set in there on your drill. I am going to go ahead and replace this with other hose. It's an O6 hose, so instead of having a problem with it later, I'm just gonna go ahead and get this puppy on there now. There we go. I'm gonna move this clamp over a little closer to the fitting there. Do this one over. Skeeter two. That kind of explains why we had all this garbage down here, oil. So, go ahead and, I like that. We'll just finish wiping it up a little bit and we'll just head on to the next one. Okay, checking it out here. We've got 40 degree water coming in. All right, checking this out here. We've got 40 degree water coming in. The chart comes in between 50 and 30. So if you split the difference between them, we're between 92 and 115. We've got 98 per suction, 136 for head, head pressures right in the ballpark in between there. The sub-cooling is super heat. Super heat should be between six and 11 at 50 degrees and four and nine at 30 degrees. We're at 16s, we're high there. Sub-cooling should be between 10 and 15 and 13 and 18 and we're right in at about 11. So, we're pretty much right in the vicinity of the sub-cooling, maybe just a little lower than I'd care for, maybe another degree or two, nothing major. So, for the most part, it sounds like we're not too far off. And then just kinda looking at some of the previous charts which is why you wanna fill these out. It's got a five and a six and a half in cooling. I had about a six, so maybe that's about the norm with this thing, so it doesn't seem to be too far off from what it was back in the day. We've got 40 going in, 35.6 coming out, so you're about a 4.4, so there's 4.4 with high volume. I hate when it's right in between, but we're a dog on close, so looking pretty good. This here went ahead and chopped out that junk saddle tap, which I don't like those. They already had a ball valve there, so now it goes nice and solid and comes down to the humidifier solenoid. We're all leak-free and everything's happy, go lucky. These things right there, in my opinion, and things are garbage and they leak, and they should be sold, in my opinion. So, anyhow, that's been done better than what it was. I would've preferred to use a brass fitting to compression, but they didn't have one at the shop, and I didn't have time to go pick one up, so I went ahead and did it just brazed in the end there and brazed over the little tap where it was punctured at, so that's all good to go there.