Uploaded on Aug 13, 2011
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Most of the tutorials on youtube when it comes to contouring and highlighting use powders. The reason i don't - mainly - is because i feel with creams you are able to blend more. Plus, for me at least, the whole point of contouring and highlighting isn't really about CHANGING the face its about making the face more "dimensional".
The face isn't a flat - so i want to make sure i have dimension to the skin. This also means as a nice byproduct i can carve out "sharper" cheek bones or "slim down a nose" without it looking like dirty muddy patches on the skin.
It also gives a "glow" to the skin. I know from reading makeup book (and i've only ever seen this technique once before) its used to give J-Lo her glow. As far as i know this technique is rarely ever used. I'm not sure why. Maybe people don't know about it? But its one worth mastering.
I think what separates a good makeup artist from a great makeup artist is contouring. Once the face is complete and lips applied - it doesn't even matter if no eye makeup is used. Just a coat of mascara and WOW. Knowing you can highlight your best features and play down the ones you're not happy with is a great tool to have.
One thing to bare in mind please:
If you're skin is NC15 and below - then clearly highlighting the complexion might not be the best idea - as you might end up looking like casper the ghost! So concentrate on contouring more.
If you're skin tone is NC/MW50 plus you are better off highlighting your skin tone rather than contouring.
Its about experimentation. See what works best for you.
Also, the way i have highlighted and contouring Mandys face may not be the same as i would with yours. Its about all your features. Look at your self in the mirror. Study your face. Study other peoples faces when applying their makeup.
You can use liquid foundation if you prefer but i like creams as i feel they blend better. This technique does not work as well with mineral foundations - but is worth a shot i guess.
Once yo've completed this step feel free to add blusher and some shimmer to the "highlighted" parts of the face. I choose not to - because i wanted you to see the skin after - and not a ready made up face. You can also set the makeup with a powder puff or with a powder brush. It will not negate the work you've already done - but hold everything together.
For real pros - you could use two different powders. One lighter for the highlighted areas - and one darker for the contouring areas. Again - this photographs really well. Mac studio fix powder plus foundation works great for this.
I used: Kett Cream foundation in O1 to highlight and O11 to contour with. Then i blended with R5 (Mandy's actually foundation shade). The reason i go ON AND ON AND ON about kett is that is works. I've not had a client or bride react to this and its like a wax, meaning it moves beautifully on the skin and looks like actual skin.
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and learnt something.
Thank you for your time.
rita ora r.i.p
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