• How to Make Down Firing Subwoofer ver. 2 - BUILDING - Part 2 of 3

    32,927 views 3 weeks ago
    Hello World! Welcome to the second installment of this 3-part mini series on rebuilding the first down firing subwoofer project https://www.youtube.com/wat...... I did on later 2018. I didn't liked how that box sounds in general so I decided to give it a whack then salvage the parts and make the best sounding enclosure for it. I hope this time it turns out way way better. Bigger enclosure, larger port tube, thicker polyfiber fillings and used the proper software and instruments to measure ultra accurate values.

    If you haven't watched the first part of this mini series, then please watch it now on this link https://www.youtube.com/wat......

    Without a further ado, let's get this thing built!
    00:00 - All measurements and calculations are done in Bass Box 6 Pro. Initial enclosure and port tuning is calculated to 37Hz in a 16.75"x10.5"x16" MDF box.
    00:35 - Link to the TinkerCad layout and design: https://www.tinkercad.com/t......
    00:55 - JBL Stage 810 8" 4 Ohm subwoofer being traced to cut its mounting hole.
    01:05 - Chinese-made solid aluminum circle cutting jig turns out real useful in cutting holes.
    01:35 - DIY routing table is put to good use everytime a routing task is needed. Watch the whole video building the router table on this link https://www.youtube.com/wat......
    01:45 - Cutting the flush mount hole for amplifier board. Amplifier board is the AIRS PW-280. A Class D 280w RMS subwoofer amplifier.
    01:50 - Cutting 45 degree corner angle braces from scrap MDF.
    02:30 - Gluing and nailing all cut MDF panels together.
    02:45 - Gluing and nailing the amplifier board compartment. You need to enclose the amplifier board so that air pressure won't do any damage to small and vulnerable electronic components on the amp board.
    02:50 - Cutting a 3" PVC pipe to size according to Bass Box 6 Pro circle port calculation.
    03:00 - Cutting and routing the PVC port brace.
    03:55 - T Nuts and carbon-steel bolts for mounting the main hardware.
    04:00 - Cover the inside walls with a polyfiber matting. Staple gun to secure into the MDF inner walls.
    04:45 - Edge routing using roundover bit to give it a smooth look and feel. Sand using 120 grit sandpaper prior to painting.
    04:55 - Bondo body fill all gaps and imperfections before spraying primer paint.
    05:20 - Favorite part: Assembly. First, screw down the rubber footings.
    05:45 - Next, push down the plastic aero port into the extending PVC. Use extreme care when pushing the port tube. You may break and crack it. A small bead of No Nail all purpose glue is applied in the PVC lip to ensure air tight and strong bond.
    05:55 - Stick a rubber gasket on the underside mounting rim of the subwoofer speaker for an air tight seal.
    06:05 - Hook up speaker cable and place down the subwoofer and amplifier into their position. Then bolt it down and tighten.
    06:40 - Final product multi-angle showcase!

    That's it boys and girls. I hope you all enjoy this second part of this project. Make sure to SUBSCRIBE and hit that LIKE button if you want to get more DIY subwoofer builds in the future. And please watch out for the 3rd part of this mini series which we are going to test this thing. Cheers and have a good day or night to you all! Show less
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