My Shrimp Versus Food Series, here I will test my Shrimp against food items and see how they get on. Dont worry I always do alot of research before I add anything to my tanks and I always feed them in moderation. I also changed the thumbnails back to what you really want to see in shrimp videos not click bait wording o thumbnails but just good old shrimp balls on food. Let me know in the comment sections your ideas and results with different types of food and also let me know what you think I should try next. You can also let me know if something you have tried did not work or you think it might be dangerous.
Setting up your Shrimp Aquarium HOW DO I SET UP A SHRIMP TANK?
Setting up a shrimp tank is easy. Whether you want to house Ghost Shrimp, Cherry Shrimp, Amano Shrimp or even Crystal Red Shrimp the process will be the same. Generally hobbyists wanting to start a shrimp tank have had some experience with fish aquariums. This is useful but not entirely necessary. We will approach setting up the shrimp tank in stages below covering the most important steps.
planted shrimp tank Most species of aquatic shrimp are favored for their small size. Shrimp can be housed in aquariums as small as 5 gallons. However 10 gallons is more common and recommended. As with any aquarium more water volume will increase the stability which is very important when caring for shrimp. Shrimp can be more sensitive than fish to changes in water quality. Ghost Shrimp & Cherry Shrimp are hardier varieties and recommended for beginner shrimp enthusiasts.
Before setting up it is important ask a few questions that can go a long way. Is there a power point nearby for electrical equipment? Is it close to a tap or bathroom for water changes? All-in-all make sure you think carefully about the placement of your new shrimp tank. It is extremely hazardous to move when filled with water.
The Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp has a unique reproduction process of which some aspects are unknown. What is known can sometimes be skewed or misunderstood. This article is meant to try and fully explain as much as possible the reproduction process of the Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp. This article is meant to explain the process for shrimp which do not have a larval stage during reproduction. This article pertains to those species which produce miniature adults directly from the egg during reproduction.
Of course when attempting to understand the reproduction process one of the most important aspects is the ability to sex the shrimp. However, this is not that easy. Some species are very easy to sex whereas others are virtually impossible to sex with what is known now. Species such as the Red Cherry Shrimp, Yellow Shrimp, Snowball Shrimp and a others are very easy to sex. Other species such as the Red Gold flake Shrimp, Cardinal Shrimp, Harlequin Shrimp and others can be extremely difficult to sex. Sexing really does depend on the species you are observing. Check out each species info page to read the detailed information on that particular species and how to sex it.
Age: Sexing of course depends on the age. Trying to sex adults is a lot easier than attempting to sex juvenile shrimp. Juvenile shrimp can be very difficult to sex, sometimes impossible depending on the size and species. Sexing sub-juvinile shrimp will most likely be impossible due to the fact that the shrimp is not old enough to display any gender identifying attributes, etc. It is definitely a good idea to only attempt to sex adults.
Size & Coloration: With many species the female is typically larger than the male. Also, the female is sometimes darker or more robust in coloration. As with the Red Cherry Shrimp, the female is not only larger but a much darker red coloration. The male Red Cherry Shrimp is instead almost colorless at times and much smaller. Females of some species may also display a line down their backs. Below is a photo of two Red Cherry Shrimp, one male and one female. Notice the size difference and more importantly the difference in coloration.
Male and Female Red Cherry Shrimp
Gender Attributes: There are also other methods to easily sex a shrimp. Certain identifiers, or attributes, can differentiate a male from a female without question. These attributes typically involve the female and certain aspects of her anatomy that do not appear in males. Some of these attributes also occur at certain periods whereas some with appear at all times. Of course a female currently holding eggs will tell you that it is indeed a female. However, when eggs are not present there are other ways to tell.
The "Saddle": Once of the most common and distinguishable attributes is the appearance of a "saddle" or miniature undeveloped eggs in the ovaries. The term "saddle" comes from the fact that that the undeveloped eggs appear on the back of the shrimp, behind the head, which looks like the saddle on a horse. Below is a photo of the Yellow Shrimp with both eggs as well as a "saddle". Notice in the first photo how the "saddle" actually looks like a real saddle you would find on a horse. In the second photo notice the tiny undeveloped eggs that actually make up the "saddle".
Yellow Shrimp with Eggs and Saddle
Close up of the Saddle
Curved Underbelly: Another way to tell the difference between a male and a female is the appearance of a curved underbelly, or the region underneath the tail. When the female is pregnant the underbelly acts as a defense against potential damage to the eggs. The curved underbelly appears in females of many species of shrimp but there are some species which do not possess this characteristic regardless of sex. The lack of an underbelly does not necessarily mean that the shrimp is a male. It really depends on age and more importantly the species of shrimp in question. Below is a photo of a Crystal Red Shrimp Female with a distinctive curved underbelly.
Crystal Red Shrimp Female with curved underbelly
The "Act": Mating between a male and female shrimp happens extremely fast. In a matter of seconds the male latches onto the female abdomen to abdomen, deposits his sperm, and quickly then releases the female. Sometimes you can actually observe a male constantly harassing a female in an attempt to grab onto her. Next time you think that the shrimp are fighting it may be a male trying to mate instead. Below are a couple of photos of a male Red Cherry Shrimp latched onto a female and depositing sperm.
WHAT SHOULD YOU FEED YOUR SHRIMP? What should you feed your shrimp?
Many people wonder what exactly they should be feeding their shrimp. The good news is the preferred food for shrimp is biofilm, which is literally grows on every surface in a healthy and cycled aquarium. Biofilm is a collection of microorganisms that is anchored on a surface in an aqueous environment. While biofilm is an excellent source of food for shrimp, particularly young shrimp, as the shrimp population grows there will come a time when m is no longer able to sustain the population. When this happens you will need to start feeding your shrimp.
Shrimp will eat a variety of foods. I have personally fed my shrimp the following:
Various flake foods Hikari Crab and Lobster Bites Shirakura Shrimp Food Several varieties of Ken’s premium sinking sticks (see Kensfish.com) Pears (very small pieces) Spinach Cucumbers Mosura Shrimp Food BorneoWild Shrimp Food Of the foods I have fed I prefer the Mosura, BorneoWild, and Shirakura foods the most. They are designed for shrimp and hold their form in water and don't break apart as quickly which will pollute the water. I also like cucumbers as a slice will stay good in the water for several days and the shrimp seem to enjoy them.
If anyone has any special recipes of their homemade shrimp food or any other types of food they have fed their shrimp please contact me and let me know and I will add it to the article.
How much and how often should you feed your shrimp?
The most important thing to remember when feeding shrimp is it is ALWAYS better to under-feed then over-feed. When the population of shrimp is small, you won’t need to feed them at all as they will feed off the available biofilm. If you try feeding your shrimp when the population is low and there is enough biofilm, your shrimp will probably completely ignore any food you add. As the population grows, you can try feeding your shrimp a small amount of food to see if they will eat it. Make sure to remove the food if your shrimp are not eating it within an hour. I would suggest trying Mosura or Borneowild to start because shrimp readily eat it once the biofilm runs out. Most importantly, these foods hold their shape for hours when submerged, allowing for easy removal of any uneaten portions. Hikari Crab & Lobster Bites and Kens premium sinking sticks both disintegrate in water quickly making them impossible to remove without a gravel vacuum. The tiny particles that get into the substrate will also lead to planaria, flat worms, and other undesirables.
Once your shrimp start eating the food you give them, you can start feeding them several times a week. You should only feed them what they will eat in a few hours. You will have to try various amounts to find out the right amount. I suggest starting low and slowing increasing the amount. Overfeeding will result in poor water quality and ultimately the death of the shrimp.