Typical Primitive Slackline Experience

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Uploaded by on Nov 9, 2007

How to rig a 3:1 and 4:1 Primitive Slackline system using carabiners for pulleys. This points out the common trials, pitfalls and errors of using this method.

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Uploader Comments (slacklinejoe)

  • thinly veiled propaganda for commercial setups...?

    4:1 carabiner pulley system works fine for shorter lines. if you're ready to walk a 50ft line, then sure, a commercial system works with less effort.

    However, with a clever set-up using a 4:1 + another 3:1 or 4:1 on the free end of the line, works well (even solo) for the longer lines. $0 + time + effort OR $150 commercial setup...your choice.

  • Disclaimer: I work for a company that sells primitive setups, as well as all other types including ratchets and pulleys.

    The title page says it all though, it's designed as a humorus look at common mistakes. It also promotes actual thinking about the mechanical advantage that is needed and the issues of friction in the system. People throw around 3:1,4:1,5:1,9:1 ratios but often don't have a clue what the actual efficency is of their system. In many cases, higher ratios don't more power.

  • They are of course light. Unfortunately most instructions recommend tri-loading carabiners in a semi-dangerous way. This can pop the gate open or break the nose off the biner.

  • Unfortunately I know of nearly a dozen instances where carabiners have broke on a slackline. The only ratchet failures have all been too low rated for. All hardware should be atleast 2,200 lbs strong or more.

  • Basically all I'm doing is pointing out that you should expect to grunt a bit and have extra people with you using this technique. I've had people assert that 1 person using this technique can tighten longer lines than pulleys, ratchets or whatever. It just isn't physically possible as the friction reduces your advantage to around 1.7:1. The math makes it impossible for a solo setup with a pre-load of much even for a rather strong person.

  • Pardon my typo.. 1.25:1 not 1.7. Using the other methods that incorporate more turns increases the friction in the system to even higher level, thus negating much of the theoretical advantage.

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  • Aweful concept. Rap rings are the way to go. That way you never need to cut the webbing after you can't get that clove hitch out.

  • Also, you have to add another pass to the line side to be able to push on the tree, and doing this gives you more MA.

  • If you tie a slip knot and pull with that, you can almost double your pull strength. Also, if you put your feet against the tree, you can like x1.5 it. So really, one person using a slip knot and a tree can totally tighten this line.

  • I used to do the thing where you stand on one side of the tree, put your leg on it, and pull, but have since upgraded to a come-along I stole from my dad.

    However, the primitive way still works.

    I use 1" tubular webbing from REI.

    and set it up like the video "How to set up a slackline" posted by clarkgrubb. It is in the related videos.

    and use some basic 2" webbing loops as slings. Works pretty well.

  • can i ask what type of line do you use? i've got 25mm mammut sling(climb spec) but i have difficulties getting a good tension when i'm alone. I think it's because of the stretching of the line. and i;m a lightweight too, also 120 lbs. thanks happy new year

  • i use rap rings too.. the only knot i have is the one i use to tie off. there used to be a goo video of this on youtube, but i haven't been able to find it recently, i never have a problem tightening my system, but then again, i don't run my webbing under itself, eliminating the friction that it causes

  • forget using clove hitches, spend an extra eight bucks and anchor with rap rings (it adds length to the life of your webbing.) I've also found it better to put two biners on the anchor side, it redirects the force so you pull away.

    To gain more MA...5:1.tie a slip knot as close to the friction point as you can, attach a biner. Attach another biner to the anchor. Run the webbing from the slip knot through the new biner on the anchor, back through the biner in the slip knot and then pull opposite

  • I use a a 4:1 setup for a 30-40 foot line and don't have any problems at all.... I only weigh 120 lbs. and I set it up by myself.

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