Mike's Mail EP 3

This Mike's mail answers the question of what style of anchor construction and when to use it. We got called out enough over the style of anchor we have been promoting. As usual what should be a straight forward demo of how to do it and why. A few changes came into being. From the time I started this video to the point of finishing my viewpoint on the sliding X type anchor changed or at least shifted to the left a bit.

I can't give a definitive answer as to what to use and when as this would be doing you a disservice. The variables and conditions are just to great to limit ones mind with thinking that anyone way is better then another.


Will Gadd has a couple articles that you should read. He puts into words what I am thinking much better then I can. He also understands the benefits of the sliding X system but also it's pitfalls. I personally think it is one of those things that appear to to good to be true so it often isn't. It's pitfalls are great and cannot be ignored.
http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2010/03/maybe-better-to-limit-anchor-extension...

http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2010/03/equalizationextension-in-anchors-post-...

http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2010/03/belay-forces-and-look-at-equallette.html


At the end of this flick I show a demonstration of a sliding X being incorporated into a standard anchor. After watching this you should have a pretty good picture of what it takes to build a anchor.



Here are a couple other sites that helped me with this video.
TradGurl
http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/safety_4.htm
Aussie Chockstone
http://www.chockstone.org/techtips/equalise.htm

Rockclimbing .com
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/multi_point_anchor_redundant_sliding_...

Category:

Education

Tags:

• anchors
• rock
• climbing
• mountaineering
• newfoundland
• flat

[Cobra0911]

Is that "Movie's You should see" in the audio in the background lol

[mikebarter387]

@Cobra0911 might be I have a crush on aliicaian doewney or at least her voice

I dig their reviews

[dmosier]

Same question at 11:33. Where the BLEEP are the lockers in the anchor?

[mikebarter387]

@dmosier your a smart guy come on do we eally need a locker at every point

[dmosier]

Big Question Mike:

At 8:30 it appears that you clip into the bolts with non locking wire gated biners, and use a locker for your main clip in point.

Could you comment on using non locking biners for an anchor, please.

I am pretty sure that would be an instant fail on a ACMG course (or so I am told).

Really, I thought one would use lockers on the anchor always, and if you did not have a locker then use 2 biners (opposite and opposed).

I know you are no nubie, so what gives with the non lockers?

[mikebarter387]

@dmosier You've been told wrong. Lockers are required at hard points, focul points but really you can't carry that many locking biners. Say I had four pieces for a anchor #1 plus clip in thats 5 biners for one anchor, then us a munter thats 6 on one anchor point required. Next anchor is 4 more plus two I need 10 locking biners! come on! I do not doubt that some one has told you that that is required but the ACMG is about 8 years away from becoming that crazy. Most likely they will get there

[mikebarter387]

@panzergrenadier90 No it's not.

[panzergrenadier90]

its sliding v, not x.

[ceilingcatdisciple]

lol.. I want to name a route "some big ass multipitch route" now =-)

[dmosier]

Same question at 11:33.  And at 12:10

Where the BLEEP are the lockers in the anchor?