Eleven of us shared a cabana in the eco-tourist resort of Ixtlan in the mountains north of Oaxaca. Then we spent a day to ourselves in an idyllic meadow near caves, and a clear rushing stream. The Aztecs passed through Ixtlan on their way to conquer the Zapotec capitol of Mitla and were held up by 4 days of furious resistance by the villagers here, who were used to the rugged terrain and could attack, and then withdraw into the forest and caves.
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