FIA2550 Intake Manifold - part 01

March 25th 2009 : we got one FIA2250 delivered. It still needs machining and finishing in order to ensure dimensional accuracy with the engine heads. Chadil in Brussels will take care of that. The internal air port surfaces are rough, needing finishing for avoiding massive condensation on cold start. A very nice & promising combination with those good old DCNF carbs, with their original velocity stacks.

Category:

Autos & Vehicles

Tags:

• FIA2550
• Chadil
• Fiat
• 130

[Klottelitsch]

For all out racing use or a really HOT streetracer choose american CARTER ROTARY VANE

4050 military pump plus rubber insulated bracket

4070: 72GPH, 4-6psi, $152 (Carter green) integrated reflow valve,

But YOU NEED a fuel pressure regulator plus gauge to get the higher pressure of this pump safley down to Weber 0.27 bar (3,8 PSI) dont go higher bacause float chambers will overflow easily causing an engine fire.

[Klottelitsch]

You will have to use custom molded bakelite (NOT ALLOY!!) heat insulator blocks (ca. 1.5 - 2.0 cm huge!)

plus heatshield plates from aluminium so heat cant come through these shields to the floatpools of the carbs so there is no vapor lock, I use that since 1997...

You will also need a high output multi carb fule pump, you can use

HARDI Fuel pump 8812 or 18824..

[Klottelitsch]

Fiat DINO had no hot water flowed intake manifold so it only needed one relatively low bakelite heat

insulator plate under each carb...that is not properly

insulating heat on FIAT 130 V6 !

[Klottelitsch]

Next very important step is the severe problem of

vapor lock due to hot engine water flowing through the 3 carb sports manifold! If you drive in traffic jam your engine will quit and not able to restart untill the whole thing has cooled down---You will have to need THICK BAKELITE adapter plates PLUS alloy heatshields UNDER the DCNF carbs.

[Klottelitsch]

The Pump is called HELLA UP 28...

attention other electric vacuum pumps are made for BOOSTING vacuum of an existing vacuum source (running engine that makes too low vacuum--but still making some amount of vac--these boosting pumps will fail (!) if you use them as SINGLE one and only vac source (they overheat!)...THE UP28 is correct its made for electric cars that make no vacuum by engine so its made for permanent use and wont fail or run hot :)

[Klottelitsch]

Wanna see the perfect vacuum pump :

Dont use noisy american all out racing vacuum pums use the pumps from VW TDI engines they are electric and have a very good noise rubber grommet insulated mounting bracket---they can be found on ebay.

You need a vacuum switch to activate that when you draw vacuum by braking,

[Klottelitsch]

So I have vacuum when I push the brake, there is allwys reserve of vacuum into the brake servo canister so car stops perfectly---and the carb adjustment is not influenced by the vacuum loss of the brake servo. I had to learn that, because I had a piston defect due to lean mixture on the last right cylinder where the manifold draws vacuum for the servo.

[Klottelitsch]

Attention with the brake servo vacuum connection ...dont (!) use only vacuum from one single cylinder, the permanent loss of vacuum through the brake servo when it is used in traffic can destroy the piston and headgasket..I plugged the vaccum hole and I use a remote vacuum pump driven by 12V DC activated with a vacuum switch from a printer press :)

[Klottelitsch]

Thats exactly like my manifold that I have since 1997 as copy of Sergio Limones original Abarth part, I also use the Weber 40 DCNF but with larger ramjets

so they are 43 DCNF (44 DCNF from Maserati Merak drink too much fuel and are better for all out racing)

I Combined my manifold with 288 degrees steel cams from Schrick.