KLR 650 Fork Service Part 1

Tools you'll need:
Medium ratchet
Large ratchet
10 mm socket
10 mm Allen head wrench
19 mm socket
24 mm socket
24 mm nut (rear axle nut works)
Flathead screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver

Remove the front wheel. ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oqp65pSeXMc )

Remove the reflectors from the forks (10 mm).

Remove the brake caliper. It is held on by two 6 mm Allen head bolts. Once the brake is free of the fork, make sure to support it on something so it's not hanging by the hose.

(A little out of order): Equalize the air pressure (press the valve in the center of the fork cap). Use a 19 mm socket and loosen the fork caps.

For each fork, there are four 12 mm nuts and bolts holding the forks in the triple tree - two on the bottom and two on the top. Loosen those (you shouldn't need to take them out). Pull the fork out. You may need to wiggle it around a bit and / or twist it.

Remove the fork boots. There's a "hose clamp" holding them on, use a Phillips screwdriver.

You have two options for draining the oil: use the oil drain near the bottom of the outer fork tube or remove the fork cap (careful - the spring is under tension) and dump the oil out.

After the oil is satisfactorily drained out, use an extension and a 24 mm nut to remove the fork dampener. I found it works well (if using the axle nut) if you put the crown part of the nut in the socket, hold the nut, socket, and extension upright (nut on top), and insert into the upside-down fork. This way, the nut doesn't fall out. Invert the fork and extension. Twist the extension - the nut should drop into place in the damper. Now use a 10 mm Allen head on the bolt on the bottom of the fork and a ratchet on the extension sticking out the top of the fork tube. Twist... hard. As the dampener bolt comes out, there will probably be more oil that comes with it. Plan accordingly. Once the bolt is out, tilt the fork assembly upside-down and catch the dampener as it comes falling out.

Remove the stop ring spring (hold the seals in place on the top of the outer fork tube).

Slide the fork back and forth to make sure that the surfaces are happy. Binding = unhappy fork tube(s). Then pull the two forks tubes apart. Use the inner tube (the shiny one) as a "hammer" and jolt it out from the outer fork tube.

Invert the outer fork tube and catch the valve and collar.

Remove the oil seal, dust seal, and backup ring over the top of the tube. Remove the inner tube bushing over the bottom of the fork with a small flathead screwdriver.

Things NOT to remove: the ring from the fork dampener, the ring from the valve, and anything inside the bottom end of the inner fork tube.

Clean all the parts.

If your bushings are missing their coatings, replace them. Make sure that the two holes in the fork dampener are clear of debris.

Reassembly: lubricate all parts with fork oil before replacing.

Install the small drain screw in the bottom of the outer fork tube. Install the slide bushing onto the bottom end of the inner fork tube. Only open it enough to get it over the end of the tube. Seat the bushing in the grove in the tube.

Put the dampener spring back on the dampener and insert both into the inner tube so the small end of the dampener sticks out the bottom end of the fork tube.
(See "Part 2" for the rest of the procedure.)



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Category:

Autos & Vehicles

Tags:

• Kawasaki
• KLR
• 650
• KLR650
• Motorcycle
• Dirtbike
• Dirt
• Bike
• Fork
• Forks
• Service
• Inspection

[rashvinpillay]

hi i have a question would be great if u could help. im riding a xr200r 1990 model. I have an issue with my fork as its too hard. when i hit the break and force it down, it goes down a little. what could cause this and how can i fix it. Thanks.

[ghotioutofh2o]

@rashvinpillay Where is this break? Is it a break in the road like a pothole or is something broken on the fork somewhere?

[ssrider7]

wanna be my mechanic?

i need to do this today on my kxf450,shit

[ghotioutofh2o]

Sure, if you're near by.

How'd it go with your KXF 450?

[stargate20mc]

My dad has never change the fork oil on his klr650, what interval would you reccommend changing it as in the klr manual it says 12 months or 24,000km, the clymer manual is 30,000 and in the klx250s service manual it doesn't even mention having a change date for the fork oil only fork inspect(smooth stroke and dampness) every 12,000. thanks great vid

[ghotioutofh2o]

I'd go with the Clymer manual.

[NAMTRIP]

@DecaPierce Ive got more time riding in the rain than you got riding,period.

[DecaPierce]

@NAMTRIP hit a nerve did i? you dont even ride

[NAMTRIP]

@DecaPierce SorryPunk,But I aint into the shit,but the bad news is you came out of the closet and announced your a Flamming Faggot On YouTube,by asking another person to suck your balls,How does it feel to be a full blown sissy ass jailhouse punk,It dont matter if your pitching,or catching,your still playing hardball, You Monkey Spank.

[DecaPierce]

@NAMTRIP yes the rear axel bolt for removing dampner is a good tip , ive got one for you, suck my ballsss!!!

[NAMTRIP]

Why not just break the caps loose before you remove the fork from the triple clamp?

[NAMTRIP]

@DecaPierce There are no tips,its work,and your not going to find any short cuts,this is a dam good video,Your just looking for an easy way out,there is none,you must follow the steps,or let someone more mechanically inclined to do it for you. Great informative video.

[Maximonious]

OMG... I'll pay the $200 to get the seals replaced... AH!

[DecaPierce]

@WorldClimb yea the guy who made the vid really hasnt got any important tips, u did !

[rashvinpillay]

well break is all fine. just wanna know why is it hard thats all. is it the oil seal?