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Mountaineers: Crevasse Rescue Using a Z-Pulley System

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Uploaded by on Apr 7, 2011

When a fallen climber is unable to help in the rescue or when few haulers are available, the 3:1 pulley is likely the best method. The pull force is on the accident rope, which may be partially entrenched in the snow, but the high mechanical advantage of the system gives haulers power to overcome some entrenchment.

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All Comments (19)

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  • brilliantly explained, very pedagogic

  • Many thanks! Was very clear & brilliantly illustrated

  • @o4show its true but its funny how they can do this but cant drive in snow at all ;)

  • Excellent video lesson for all mountaineers. I have searching for this topic 2 years.

    Thanks a lot.

  • @inboulder Why do you see metal-on-metal as an issue? The anchors aren't fully equalized so we shouldn't see cross-loading, even if they were the angle is small that the effects of cross-loading wouldn't have an practical impact in this scenario. For prussik backup see annotation at 2:50. For climber communication see annotation at 5:42. On ice, screws/v-threads may be used.

  • By far best instructional iv seen!

    Hope to see more!

  • God bless Seattle's mountaineering scene. Apparently Seattlites are the only people who can make a straight forward yet thorough video on crevasse rescue. Thank you so much for making this video and well done. I get it now.

  • awesome vid!

  • well made, thks

  • really well explained and made simple - perfect

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