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A quick word from Jeff after pulling this CCH Alien

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Uploaded by on May 17, 2007

A friend and I just finished some impromptu testing of CCH Aliens in actual rock placements. The cams ranged in size and age (both pre and post recall). We yanked on them using a car - and while we don't have a dynamometer (yet) I can tell you that the force was much greater than what you'd get in a typical climbing fall: the car was often yanked backward, the knots in the climbing rope were completely impossible to untie, and the 31-kN carabiner we were using was deformed.

Bottom line: the cams were bomber. There were no cable or brazing failures. In all cases where we pulled to failure, the ROCK failed before the cams did. (These were solid placements in good quality granite.) The cables were all twisted up, the lobes badly deformed (and inverted as the rock blew apart), and the loops pulled into wild shapes - but NO brazing failures, NO cable failure. Just lots of rock dust.

We'll post photos and links to videos as we have time, but you can look at some of the initial photos at at www.geir.com/aliens/

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  • such big force "test" makes the equipment unusable for any future usage, due that the metal now has a bunch of wear, and may be weakened by it.

  • wtf are you talking about.

  • That made sense.

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