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In order to troubleshoot to the component level you need to know diagnostics. If you are not a trained electronics tech then how can one achieve this?
Changing SMD's for high reliability is quite easy if your process is correct. BGA reballing and replacement requires training. I do not know your background. When you replace a BGA package you MUST use a BGA machine so you can control your profile for your preheat, ramp, soak and cool down.
I'm intending to replace the ssop format OpAmps on my soundcard. Unfortunately, my iron just broke, and I can't afford a temp controlled station.
Can you reccomend me something which heats to 550-600F (or any other suitable iron really), I can only seem to find irons which heat hotter, and an iron with swappable tips (to accomodate the hoof tip). Thank you.
Great video by the way. I never even knew such uniform soldering could be achieved.
Economical and effective, the Weller WES51 analog. This Weller gives you 40-50 watts and will run you around $100. Tips are about $4.00 each and if you keep them tinned they will give you a good life.
Thank you for the speedy reply. Unfortunately, these are much more expensive in the UK, but not to worry, I hope to lay my hands on an old weller magnastat station, which i hope will do the trick.
Earlier you mentioned you'd had the best results using a small or large tip; would you reccomend one or the other for very small components with few, small pins? (measurements for small are .062" x .62", and large, .125" x .62" i think). Thank you.
Thank you for your video. Could you tell me what kind of fluid you used before soldering? Maybe you told us in the video but I haven't any speaker on this computer.
Thank you. My multi lead techniques for both vertical and flat have evolved substantially since this video.
I now use "one touch" techniques only for high reliability. One pass or transfer of thermal energy (heat) to create the metallurgical bond of the solder fillet.
Excessive heat promotes intermetallic formations which result in embrittled joints. Then you get stress fractures which affect reliability and result in latency (latent or premature failure.) The key is "thermal management."
It sounds like you are using a Weller WES51 analog. They have a WESD 51 which is digital and does not cost much more. I like to see my actual tip temp. Do not rely on accurate tip temps with an analog.
I use 550-600F and no more for 63/37 tin/lead and 650-700F for lead free. If I have a stubborn ground plane then I use a Zephyrtronics air Bath pre-heater at 150F.
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I want to learn to repair laptops to the component level but I would like to know if you could guide me as to where to start.
Im interested in BGA Reballing, and changing smd
But what i would like to know more is
How do you know what is defective in something as big as a Laptop Board??
Hope you could help me and thanks
Changing SMD's for high reliability is quite easy if your process is correct. BGA reballing and replacement requires training. I do not know your background. When you replace a BGA package you MUST use a BGA machine so you can control your profile for your preheat, ramp, soak and cool down.
Can you reccomend me something which heats to 550-600F (or any other suitable iron really), I can only seem to find irons which heat hotter, and an iron with swappable tips (to accomodate the hoof tip). Thank you.
Great video by the way. I never even knew such uniform soldering could be achieved.
Earlier you mentioned you'd had the best results using a small or large tip; would you reccomend one or the other for very small components with few, small pins? (measurements for small are .062" x .62", and large, .125" x .62" i think). Thank you.
I now use "one touch" techniques only for high reliability. One pass or transfer of thermal energy (heat) to create the metallurgical bond of the solder fillet.
Excessive heat promotes intermetallic formations which result in embrittled joints. Then you get stress fractures which affect reliability and result in latency (latent or premature failure.) The key is "thermal management."
I use 550-600F and no more for 63/37 tin/lead and 650-700F for lead free. If I have a stubborn ground plane then I use a Zephyrtronics air Bath pre-heater at 150F.