Parts I mentioned:
Castle Creations Mamba Micro Pro ESC
1 1/2 Dynamite 7.4V 2000mAh packs (I call the series-wired 1S pack a "booster pack" since I can still run 2S)
Pro-Line Dirt Hawg mini's in the rear and Losi Directional Ribs in the front
EZrun 7800kV "12 turn" brushless motor
Losi 2.4ghz receiver (pulled out of a Mini Monster Baja)
MKS GY-292 Dual-Rate Gyro (ultimately just to get a feel for how gyro's work, it wasn't that unstable before)
Unmentioned Parts:
RPM Bully rims
MIP Drivelines
MIP Ball Differential
Losi Dual-Plate Slipper Clutch
Losi Aluminum Shocks
Losi Bearing Kit
Custom "Davymade" dual-rate front springs
Hitec HS-65B Servo&saver
Tips & Tricks:
I WD-40 all the ball/cups often (every 3-5 days I run) to avoid squeaks/binding.
Gear down! These brushless motors have ridiculous top end, don't be afraid to sacrifice a few revs for out-of-the-hole punch!
I prefer to stay away from aluminum "upgrade" parts (flex is your friend, weight is the enemy)
Lower CG = faster laps
I'll never go back to NiMh/NiCad, or 27mhz
In high-power applications, start with the clutch loose. It is usually cheaper to replace clutch pads than the differential.
I like to back off all my plastic-on-plastic screws 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Adds flex, but bear in mind that some screws can shear off in a serious crash. (like the two where the front top bulkhead meets the chassis)
Losi suggests 20-WT oil in the shocks, but I run 30-WT because I jump the crap outta my truck.
Above all, remember that these aren't rigid rules, your driving style is different from mine so do what feels best for you. I know people who run their shocks as low as possible for better CG, but my track doesn't get groomed as often as it should and I don't want to get stuck every 5 minutes so I stand mine up a little more.
One thing I should have mentioned, in retrospect. A 3s battery providing the 25 amps required for this speed control is huge on this chassis, so take it easy on the jumps and keep it in one piece!
sdwilliams777 1 year ago
what do you think is the best kv motors for these trucks? im beefin mine up a lil bit and i want it really fast like at least 50 but still have a little bit of controllability. DO you think an 8200kv motor and 3s would be overkill? thanks
stanleytherat 1 year ago
@stanleytherat If you want to go really fast and replace trans gears all the time, yes a 3s works. But it is an impractical setup since there are virtually no classes for high voltage mini races and you buy gears on the regular. That being said, there is very little difference in the torque of a higher or lower kv motor at that voltage, so if you think the motor won't grenade under the RPM's then try it and write back! Definitely look for a sintered rotor rather than a bonded one.
sdwilliams777 1 year ago
@stanleytherat The bonded rotor is actually a pair of magnets glued to the shaft, where the sintered rotor is built around the shaft in one piece. Get a thermometer and keep a close eye on the temp, gear it correctly and it'll work. But if you want a fun truck that gets big air and is still reasonably maintainable with good torque and top end, I suggest 2s with 6500-7500 kv.
sdwilliams777 1 year ago