Andersen 100 Window Best Practice Install Method

This is the preferred Risinger Homes install method for windows. My crew is installing a new Andersen 100 Series window. This is their version of a fiberglass window and so far I've been very impressed with this product. You'll see what I consider to be the best and only way to install a window so it'll be leak proof for the life of the window. The DuPont Tyvek family of products is my preferred weather barrier. In a future post I'll show the flashings we'll use on the outside as well as the back-caulking of the window inside and the low-expansion foam. -Matt Risinger

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• Andersen 100 Windows
• Window install
• Flexwrap
• Straightflash
• Best Practice Windows

[myalencephalous]

i don't see J-channels on this window; what is this house finished with? siding/stucco/shake shingle....???

[MattRisinger]

@myalencephalous We don't see many windows with J-channel pre-installed here in Texas. This market has alot of Stucco/Stone/Cement Siding. None of those require J Channel so it's not seen much. When I worked in the North East alot of homes had Vinyl siding that used J Channel. This particular house was a mix of stone & stucco. -Matt Risinger

[myalencephalous]

The gap that is created by th 1/8" shims - won't this allow cold air in the winter and hot air in the summer to get in? What do you use to insulate this 'escape gap' for any potential water? Or is this simply an exterior storm window install, and the interior window is yet to be installed?

[MattRisinger]

@myalencephalous Great question! Best practice is to use low expansion foam on three sides of the inside window jamb to wood framing. This insulates and air seals. At the sill we use backer rod and latex caulk to air seal and create a back dam at the sill. Matt Risinger

[BigBomber44]

Umm. People like you have not had to case the inside of window before. I am a finishing carpenter in high end homes and shiming the window out from the walls makes it way harder to case and we usually have to bash drywall to make it look good. Other than that I agree with everything! lol

[MattRisinger]

@BigBomber44 Good Point. These windows don't come with jamb extensions so if you're not doing a drywall return you have some extra work for the finish carpenters. By the way, I think a good finish carpenter is worth his weight in GOLD. A well built home can look bad with a poor finish carpentry job, or a decently well built home can be amazing with a great finish carpenter at the tail end. -Matt Risinger

[HappyBeeb]

Matt! I found you while learning about replacement windows. Do you have a video / advice on replacement windows. Looked at big stores - thinking of going with a local that does Marvin wood with fiberglass clad. Installers have some longevity - at least installing vinyl. Concerns: cavities for bugs - is there a real good reason to go with a complete tear out?

[HappyBeeb]

Nice! Thank you. Now clone and help me with all my projects!

[gary4498]

Nice work.Everyone has their wn thoughts.Mine is that your tyveck is great.But puting peal and seal stfuff over it does not seam right.I think the tyveck should be cut about 2 inches away from opening then do with peal and seal kinde of like what you did with the tyveck by wraping it in but now it is stuck to the tyveck,and to wood.

[MattRisinger]

@slomotrainwreck Thanks! -Matt Risinger