Solo Aid Climb of the Prow (A2) Cathedral Ledge, NH

A solo aid climb of the Prow (A2) of Cathedral Ledge, New Hampshire, on November 10, 2007. Typically done in four pitches, though listed as six pitches in some guidebooks. My first time solo-aiding.

Category:

Sports

Tags:

• climbing
• mountaineering
• aid
• solo
• cathedral
• ledge
• prow

[zodiac272]

nice job! was there any mandatory free climbing?

[jablists]

@zodiac272 The first pitch can be done free at 5.7, but I wouldn't say it's "mandatory" free climbing, as you can probably aid as much of it as you care to. My self-belay set up was pretty inadequate for feeding out rope for free climbing, so on the easiest parts of the first pitch I would pull out a ton of slack and free climb (awkwardly, with the double gear sling on) and at the one or two cruxy parts I think I hung on gear.

[gregtregoning4051]

i have to ask at what age did you start seriously climbing and how would someone start getting into solo aid climbing im starting to lead climb with hopes of getting into some big wall climbs in the future...any comments would be great thx greg, Ontario Canada

[jablists]

@gregtregoning4051 I started around 26...however, this video is of the only solo aid climb I ever did. Aid, and solo aid, just require the same skills as traditional free climbing (placing gear that you trust, knowing how to work with anchors, rope systems, etc.) it's just a lot slower, more work, and requires more organization. Practice placing gear until it's automatic, go aid climbing with a partner to get used to the sequence, and then figure out how you're going to self-belay. Good luck.

[549neo]

Very nicely done! Is it a solid A2, or mostly A1 with a few A2 sections? Thank you.

[jablists]

@549neo The aid is pretty mild since as a free route it's pretty well-protected. As I recall there are just a couple places where you have to string together a few small nut placements in a row but I'd say the vast majority of the placements are A1.

[rfs010203]

Niceeee...

[zodiac272]

@jablists ok cool... thanks! 

[traemccombs]

Am I the only one with sweaty palms even though it was a cold day and he was aiding? LOL. I've only freed up to say 5.11b before (big guy, kinda fat - that was eons ago) for Aid I've only done some minor A2+ to A3- I love it and wish I had time to do more. Haven't really climbed much in many years.

Love this video... So full of win!