VERY VERY Nice video.....Concept is VERY TRUE........ may not applicable for homes........as it requires more cost(may be capacitive) to improve power factor from 0.8 to 0.9....when compared to the cost for 0.7 to 0.8....
Yet another one these devises, its not new they have been around for years and used for different reasons in industry. The is video is crap and technically wrong. It is a SCAM, this will not save you a red cent. This type of garbage sadly can easily fool a laymen!..... SCAM
These devices may improve power factor but residential users are not billed for power factor! These devices may clean up power - reduce spikes etc. but that does nothing for saving energy. Bottom line: these devices do not offer any savings for the 99% of users. A rigorous side-by-side test in 2 identical homes done at the same time in with the same weather conditions and exact same activities (running appliances lights etc.) with logging kWh meters will prove or disprove their dubious claims.
If you want to save money in your residence you would be better off turning lights and a/c off when not needed - get occupancy sensors - buy compact fluorescents - and junk that 15 year old fridge and get a more efficient one.
In UNLOADED motors the watts is going into heat and mechanical work. Reduce amps and you reduce heat loss so in UNLOADED or low load situations you will see a small reduction in watts because you are making less heat. ( Electrical engineers: I refer to the VA, VAR, and Watts triangle - improving power factor reduces VA V is the same so A goes down) In the real world few situations correspond to lightly loaded motors. Notice demo is on an UNLOADED motor it is doing virtually no mechanical work.
If it looks too good to be true it probably is! If you are approached to become a dealer for these my advice is to run away. I met a guy who invested $20K for the right to become a dealer for a similar device - he's been duped. What is going on here? (Check out my comments with any electrical engineer.) An UNLOADED motor has poor power factor. Improving power factor reduces amps but the motor still needs to do the same work in watts - you get billed for watts not amps. See next comment above
SCAM!!!! There is no such thing as "Active" power and "Reactive" power. Power is measured in Watts and is a calculation between Voltage and Current. Voltage is the potential energy from a ground level. Current is for force of the flow. Not unlike the current flow in a river. Think of Voltage as the beginning of a river (a higher area than the end of a river), The Voltage (or potential) is the height above the lowest point. Current is the flow of the river. Power is a calculation of them.
true what he is saying but not useful for residential customers, we are not penalized for having poor power factor. the average house is mainly resistive.
VERY VERY Nice video.....Concept is VERY TRUE........ may not applicable for homes........as it requires more cost(may be capacitive) to improve power factor from 0.8 to 0.9....when compared to the cost for 0.7 to 0.8....
psmkreddy255 1 year ago
@UnderMan1965
Waste fellow.......... First learn concepts..........
psmkreddy255 1 year ago
Yet another one these devises, its not new they have been around for years and used for different reasons in industry. The is video is crap and technically wrong. It is a SCAM, this will not save you a red cent. This type of garbage sadly can easily fool a laymen!..... SCAM
xdtrv6 1 year ago
The video is technically incorrect an many levels - oh perhaps it's a joke!
5occerboy 3 years ago
These devices may improve power factor but residential users are not billed for power factor! These devices may clean up power - reduce spikes etc. but that does nothing for saving energy. Bottom line: these devices do not offer any savings for the 99% of users. A rigorous side-by-side test in 2 identical homes done at the same time in with the same weather conditions and exact same activities (running appliances lights etc.) with logging kWh meters will prove or disprove their dubious claims.
5occerboy 3 years ago
If you want to save money in your residence you would be better off turning lights and a/c off when not needed - get occupancy sensors - buy compact fluorescents - and junk that 15 year old fridge and get a more efficient one.
5occerboy 3 years ago
In UNLOADED motors the watts is going into heat and mechanical work. Reduce amps and you reduce heat loss so in UNLOADED or low load situations you will see a small reduction in watts because you are making less heat. ( Electrical engineers: I refer to the VA, VAR, and Watts triangle - improving power factor reduces VA V is the same so A goes down) In the real world few situations correspond to lightly loaded motors. Notice demo is on an UNLOADED motor it is doing virtually no mechanical work.
5occerboy 3 years ago
If it looks too good to be true it probably is! If you are approached to become a dealer for these my advice is to run away. I met a guy who invested $20K for the right to become a dealer for a similar device - he's been duped. What is going on here? (Check out my comments with any electrical engineer.) An UNLOADED motor has poor power factor. Improving power factor reduces amps but the motor still needs to do the same work in watts - you get billed for watts not amps. See next comment above
5occerboy 3 years ago
SCAM!!!! There is no such thing as "Active" power and "Reactive" power. Power is measured in Watts and is a calculation between Voltage and Current. Voltage is the potential energy from a ground level. Current is for force of the flow. Not unlike the current flow in a river. Think of Voltage as the beginning of a river (a higher area than the end of a river), The Voltage (or potential) is the height above the lowest point. Current is the flow of the river. Power is a calculation of them.
UnderMan1965 3 years ago
true what he is saying but not useful for residential customers, we are not penalized for having poor power factor. the average house is mainly resistive.
gregswig 3 years ago