How to Install Vapor Barrier
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Stay away from plastic vapor barriers, walls need to breath.
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Just sheet right over the old plaster and lath with new drywall. There's no need to add any 1X4's or vapor barrier unless you're deliberately trying to add insulation by creating a "space" between the old plaster and new drywall. In that case, I would just rip all the plaster and lath out and insulate it the correct way (between the existing studs) and use a 6 mil vapor barrier then new drywall.
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Your video is popular on East Timor (Timor
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I need a littyle help from the people on this comment page. I have a home with plaster board and its cracked all over the walls and I want to just put fresh sheet rock over the existing walls to cover it up. Now..do i install 1"x4" boards onto the plaster board and screw them into the lathes behind the plaster...then I'll have a 1" gap for adding some insulation and then install a vapor barrier and just screw the new sheetrock over that? I know it may sound crazy..but im trying save space
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take this video of youtube your not an insulator you dont know enough to be giving information video's
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This video is a favorite on Indonesia
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Gees, everyone knows that the moisture barrier goes on the warm side of the insulation. Stops moisture from settleing on it. If the plastic is cold, fog settles on it just like it settles on a window. If the plastic is warm there won't be any fog on it.
The water outside is kept outside by an external sealer.
This way is just asking for mold in the wall and a musty smell
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by putting plastic that does not breath you took away the air space.. if your going to do this why not just put your studs right against the plastic? . one warm side is hard enough to control why create another.
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why do you think that you put poly down on your inside basement walls because of moisture.... there is no ways to eliminate it all but you have to find a way to let it dry... Now this is why you don't put studs right against the block walls or poured foundation that 2 in air space is needed its the buffer so when it does get moist in when you get alot of rain or snow or you just happen to live in a spot where the ground has high moisture content this will let the moisture be controled.
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you have created 2 warm sides here with this application ... you might get away with this in arizona or the sahara dessert but this will not work in B.C . your not only trapping moisture which yes i agree the moisture will stay on the back side of the plastic for a little bit but once it accumulates mold mold mold... but you are also creating a condensation problem moisture controls temprature in a situation like this. All i can say is i hope you live somewhere where it is warm and dry allways
Wow after 15 years of insulating and many hours getting r200 zero cost certified I now know that engineers and the teachers that taught me were wrong! Putting poly on the back side of the wall doesn't trap the moisture from the cement and cause it to deteriorate.. Hell no! Oh and encapsulating the insulation makes it work better even though the insulation is designed to have a 20% pressure air movement to make it work at its maximum. Seal it up and drop the R Value! Fuck everyone your the king!
anotherfatbastard 10 months ago 3
Folks do not do what this guy has done.
This guy is totally incompetent
please at least research other sources......this guy is ass backwards and all you will get is a wall full of moisture ...the moisture travels from the house ..through the wall into the insulation and condenses on the plastic on the cold wall
MrCleanandWhite 1 year ago 2