Salt Water Chlorinator Electrical Hookup

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Uploaded by on Apr 30, 2009

The way your electrician wires your salt water chlorinator is important. In this video Jason Hughes, pool contractor and author of popular ebook "6 Steps to Pool and Patio Success", discusses how salt water chlorinators should be wired and explains why this is significant. For more information about inground pools visit www.PoolSchool.us and www.riverpoolsandspas.com.

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Uploader Comments (hughesjasonc)

  • In Australia with a now 40 year history of manufacture of chlorinators (Watermaid began in 1971) you will find that mechanical flow sensors were gone by the early 80's. If I had been responsible for this installation I would have been made to go back and do it properly. There are two scenarios that come to mind 1, the flow sensor locks on after a time through either wear , electronic failure. and the motor runs without water moving in which case the only place for the gas to go is into thefilter

  • @010Andrew010

    In this case the chlorinator cannot run without the pump running. Both feed by the same circuit. We purposely wire the unit this way in case the flow switch fails.

  • The flow sensor is in the correct position. The cell will attract calcuim salts to it which can flake off and clog or make the flow sensor fail if it is downstream of the cell.

    The current draw @ 240V would be around 8A for the pump and around 1 to 2Amps for the chlorinator

  • @010Andrew010

    Thanks for the feedback Andrew, but there are two safety measures to prevent any gas production or build-up. 1. The flow sensor, and 2. the chlorinator and pump are powered by the same source to insure there's no chlorine production when the pump is not running.

    And yes, this is an approved install from the manufacturer....they've visited dozens of our project sites and are always thrilled with the results.

    Of the 500+ chlorinators we've installed, we've never had an issue.

  • Shouldn't the flow valve be in front of the generator if the water is going too the pool after the valve. The flow valve can be behind the generator if its before the pool valve.

  • Sorry, not sure I understand you. The flow switch is before the chlorinator cell in this case. The chlorinator cell should always be the last thing in the plumbing before the pool.

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  • I have some pictures that were sent to me from the department of fair trading in Australia for my evaluation and comment. This installation HAS a gas trap and the gas was restricted to a volume less than 1 litre.

    The pump must be plugged in to the chlorinator and both must run at the same time, there is an electronic gas sensor incorporated in the cell. This unit is still currently sold.

    Your setup does not prevent gasses from filling the filter in the "worst case scenario"

  • It's actually a Leisure Moroccan 38, but the fiberglass pool manufacturer is irrelevant. You may want to do a google search on pool grounding vs bonding. But in essence you need to bond any metal within 5' of the waters edge of the pool as well as bond the water with a wet niche typle light, ladder, or other component that actually touches the water. The objective is to make everything the same potential to eliminate nuissance voltage issues.

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