Mini Window Motor Running At 20K RPM's

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Uploaded by on May 5, 2009

This is my little window motor running on 24 volts. It is drawing 125 ma while cranking out about 20K RPM's

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Science & Technology

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  • @dougspair

    You old fart! Ha ha. Ya I'm a little older that's why I had some fun telling you to respect your elders. Yes it's unusual to see eagles in Ohio. We have place on a lake here and there happens to be a pair living at the lake We also have about 100 vultures that show up every summer. I have some video of the eagles to add on to the clip I have posted. I found them walking along our sea wall when the water went down. They'd look over the top and try to sneak up on chipmunks.

    John

  • @DadHav I recall the 7/9 pin tubes, and I even found some mini-tubes in surplus stuff in the late1950's, about 5/16" diameter, wire leads, mostly just triodes, and amplifiers for military walkie-talkies. I see on your youtube site, you're 67, so yes, my elder by 3 years. I was born July 4th, 1947, the same year thefirst transistor was invented. Nice video of the Eagle. We have them here in Calif. too, but no-where around town.

  • @dougspair

    Most people don't know how much three phase stuff is really out there. In the hobby industry you can buy a motor and speed control for probably less than $20 now days.

    John

  • @dougspair

    Tubes have alway been and always will have a special mellow sound. Theres nothing like watching a line of power tubes with their beautiful blue glow pulsing away to the rhythm of your guitar. I hate to mark my age but I flew a plane with tube R/C. The tubes were mini without a base. The controls where very basic. Mine was rudder only if I remember right. I still have the airplane in my basement. I fly it every year but with an updated radio.

    John

  • @dougspair

    If you think about the circuit you need to generate a voltage across the trigger circuit before you will have rotation. You can only do that with a push. I use the sequential bipolar circuit with the window motor. I also use hall effect sensors. With the sensors you get trigger without having to generate it mechanically. You then have a motor that will self start as well as hav forward reverse and accept timing changes,

    John

  • @DadHav I did notice the tach-o 'pegs out' at 19,999. A friend of mine operates a 2-stroke Power Tool store, has a tach with the same 4-1/2 digit read out, not too much trouble for the saws, most max at 11-12K.

  • @DadHav Yes, I know LED's are also 'receivers' or more accurately 'generators', to a smaller degree, compared to emmiters, as are most semi-conductors. Have you worked with Hall-effect sensors on your experiments? A little more complicated curcuits involved though.

    I did see you mentioned your 'cramped' breadboard set-ups? Well, no problem in my mind, as micro-watts and milliwats don't like a bunch of long, big thick cables? The 2 Cents battery, do the copper/zinc pennies work/last ok?

  • @DadHav I have dissected several hard drive and floppy motors, andsee that all are 3 phase BLDC. I'm thinking they are 3 phase to get the direction, and self-starting? After High School, I attended a 9 month school for 1/3 phase AC and DC motor repair and control circuitry, so I understand that stuff pretty well. All mechanical controls then, nothing much of high-power semi-conductors yet, but some DC motor stuff ran vacuum tubes for power.

  • @DadHav R60, I'll have to see what that is, but the floral wire, I'm thinking is just soft iron? maybe you can try the 'baling wire' or more properly, 'Mechanics Wire' sold at Home Depot and such stores. The floral wire may be a bit pricey? In this case, the imported stuff might be better. The limited amount of characters here makes it a little difficult to really have any real discussion of some of the topics that I'd like to talk more about.

  • @DadHav What? Vacuum tubes? I read that a couple of amplifier mfgr's are still making them, Fender, Traynor? The solid state stuff does often have the annoying hiss caused by being semi-conductors, never all the way on, or off. The old speakers I took apart used the tubes high voltage to drive the speaker magnet, usually 150-200+ volts, DC. I even had an early portable radio with 4-5 tubes, a couple 'D' cells for heaters, and a 90 volt for the plates. Weren't the early R/C's like that?

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