Do your wurst

i really thought about trying to resist the pun, but it was like pushing a beachball under water. phrases like "the best wurst i ever had" and "it wasn't gourmet, but it could've been wurst" kept popping up.

we were up early, hoping to buy our gingerbread and "do nurnberg", abridged frommer's style, before our second and last day in munich. (we lodged in nurnberg because Oktoberfest virtually guaranteed an absence of hostelry in munchen itself. i'm not sorry, though the train ride made planning trickier. it was a beautiful, quiet town, embodying many teutonic virtues.)

the hauptmarkt, close to both the inevitable frauenkirche and the ridiculously glitzy "beautiful fountain", was nothing but a set of covered stalls when we arrived. while we made off at a rather urgent clip for the "sights" of the town, it slowly unfolded into an orderly open air market. i think we were among this sausage seller's first customers--he told us rather gruffly to go away for five minutes. meanwhile, i bought a giant kase- brez'n for the exorbitant sum of 2.5 euros. it was so good that the next day i went back for two more.

btw, as fabulous as weisswurst are, it's difficult to hold a candle to the hot greasy explosion of a bratwurst just off the grill. the nurnberg variety are smaller and spicier, often sold three in a bun.

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Travel & Events

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• wurst
• hauptmarkt
• nuremberg