Brownells Spray-on Finish Video Guide- Chpt 6 Aluma-Hyde II
Uploader Comments (brownellsinc)
All Comments (28)
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I wholeheartedly followed this technique and the results was amazing. Thanks for posting this video. God bless
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I'm working on an older Ruger 10/22 with a metal receiver that has a few scratches on it. Do I need to take it down to bare metal to apply Aluma-Hyde II, or can I just feather the scratches and coat over the factory finish?
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will it work on stainless steal ?
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One tip is to not go too heavy and to tape off areas where there is metal to metal contact, such as where the slide contacts the frame of a handgun . I didn't realize how thick I applied this the first time I used it. FYI, this stuff works great on a a damaged wood stock filled with bondo. It cures hard and looks great.
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Followed this video exactly, came out great. Do not overspray, it will get glossy! If you do exactly what he does in the video, it comes out perfect.
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I just re did a Rem.870 and it went on great giving a awesome finish. Now I am waiting till the weekend to fully reassemble it.
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Is it okay to get this in the action of a bolt rifle or should it be kept out of the action?
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Thats his wife's "heat gun".
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Is it required to clean the gun and gun parts with mineral spirits before applying Aluma Hyde? Thanks!!!
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@HarlanCoOutlaw Aluma-*Hyde* II, woops.
Is there somewhere I can see the difference between matte black and gloss black?
On Brownells website the matte black looks too grey, with a little brown in it, but the gloss looks like a true black.
Could I use gloss black, let it cure, then cover it with clear matte?
Omnignosis 2 years ago
The matte black is in fact black even though the web shot may look a different color. With Gun Kote you can cure a base coat and then apply an overcoat of any color in Gun Kote and then cure the overcoat in the same manner.
[Monty Crain]
brownellsinc 2 years ago
Do you wet or dry sand the cured Aluma Hyde II? I have no runs but there are some areas that would look nicer smoothed out a bit. I'm painting a wood SKS stock. I was hoping to sand with 1000 grit once cured, then respray, cure, then clear.
pector55 3 years ago
You may sand areas with either wet or dry so long as the coating is fully cured. You will most likely find you will have to "sand" the entire stock if you use fine grit sandpaper, in order to achieve a uniform finish. You may find using "Stock Sheen" or Triple F compound will work better for you.
brownellsinc 3 years ago
I've been super pleased with Aluma-Hyde II. Been searching for a while for a decent FDE paint. I've found that compared to the various brands of paint out there, straight out of the can, Brownells' Coyote Aluma-Hyde II paint most closely matches Magpul's FDE. Awesome stuff and easy to use. The only hard part was reminding myself not to touch the parts until the paint was fully cured. =)
uscmCorps 3 years ago
We're glad you like it!
brownellsinc 3 years ago