HELP! B&O 3300 TURNTABLE REPAIR

NEED HELP REPAIRING THIS BAND AND OLUFSEN 3300 LINEAR TRACKING TURNTABLE

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[RetroPCDOS]

Replace the Rubber Drive Belts and you will have a fully restore 3300 is hard to get the cartridges for that table, so may not be worth it to you in the end, if you are going to eBay it let me know before you do, as I do buy them if it within reason and all parts are still their with all the screws in the in the proper place.

Will do a video of mines later this week when I have some off time. But that is your problem

[lineartechbd1600]

@RetroPCDOS

I actually have a mmc4 cartridge and needle. I have an rx table also but just one cartridge and needle.

[heyjohnboy]

Were you able to get this turntable repaired? I have the same turntable and after replacing the belts have not been able to get the pickup arm mechanism to travel properly. I was wondering if you were able to get yours working, and if so, could you share any insight that might help me get it working again? Thanks!

[RetroPCDOS]

2. Lubrication

Lubricate the drive shaft (top-right, under the tone-arm) with lithium grease, after removing all old solidified grease.

[RetroPCDOS]

By the solonoid there are 2 electrolytic capacitors which need replacement - the large gold

axial 470uF 16V in the centre, and the smaller orange 2.2uF 50V above and to the left.

I used an axial low-ESR blue Vishay (Philips) 138AML 470uF 50V and a black Panasonic EB 2.2uF 50V

[RetroPCDOS]

As the PSU Rebuilt

The 4 diodes making up the Full-wave Bridge Rectifier need to be replace These are regular 1N4002 diodes, and may be replaced with Vishay 11DQ10 Schottky units for improved stability

Large Snap-in 1000uF 40V was replaced by an identical Vishay (Philips) AML138 1000uF 40V.

[RetroPCDOS]

@RetroPCDOS

Dispose of the thin, central plastic cradle, which is the deformed part – do not try to salvage it,

and BTW, plastic drinking straws are not an acceptable substitute.

6. You need slow-set (24-hour) 2-part epoxy to rebuild this.

With a fine metal file, file rough the 2 edges of the plastic parts which will contact the 2 edges of the

magnet.

7. Apply epoxy to the 2 edges of the magnet and attach the 2 plastic parts.

[RetroPCDOS]

@RetroPCDOS

4. Once you have the 3 parts of the piston out of the tunnel, spray the inside of the tunnel with Silicon

spray. Wait about 20 minutes and then wipe through with a tissue, to remove any oily residue.

5. The deformed piston, if not already broken, soon will be!

We want it in 3 parts – the forward plastic part, the middle magnet (oriented correctly), and the rear

plastic part.

[RetroPCDOS]

@RetroPCDOS 1. Remove the spring which holds the piston support arms together.

2. Loosen the main PCB's screws which secure the PCB to the chassis.

Then gently twist and pull the piston out of the solenoid tunnel.

3. Keep a bottle of colored nail varnish handy; to immediately mark the longitudinal orientation of the

tubular magnet as it falls out of the tunnel, to ensure reassembly in the same correct magnetic

[RetroPCDOS]

It may be a power supply issue, which will also cause the problem, but more likely the plastic Piston inside the Solenoid tunnel is deformed, it's a known problem, creating more friction than the solenoid field-strength is able to overcome, fixed a couple that had that problem.