Varnish and Epoxy~ Part2

Loading...

Sign in or sign up now!
Alert icon
Upgrade to the latest Flash Player for improved playback performance. Upgrade now or more info.
6,544
Loading...
Alert icon
Sign in or sign up now!
Alert icon

Uploaded by on Jun 17, 2011

Part 2 of a tutorial showing a modern take on an old maritime tradition; varnishing. This episode covers the materials and process necessary for getting a wood finish that will make anyone say "Damn, now THAT'S nice...."

  • likes, 0 dislikes

Link to this comment:

Share to:

Uploader Comments (boatworkstoday)

  • i have a 79 trojan express. and im going to refinish all the teak/wood in the cabin as well as the swim/dive platform,spray rails, the steps to the flybridge ect. would this method here work for that? i understand a satin finish for inside the cabin is probaby best. but i like the shiny look you have here.

  • @antlrking1 It would work great for rails, steps and platform (providing it doesn't get alot of wear/tear as the finish is relatively soft). My general rule of thumb is exterior solid wood that isn't a wear surface gets this finish; wear areas are better to let grey or use an oil as it hides scratches, etc. Interior as you mentioned is better with a dulled finish (just easier on the eyes), so I probably wouldn't suggest this for bulkheads, trim, etc but would for the sole (floor)..

  • I've built an outdoor table using pressure treated pine. I was advised to use a marine spar varnish to protect it, but this seems to be a very in-depth process for something like that. I've got about 20 hours into the table build, so I don't want another 20 in sealing/varnishing, but I do want the table protected and looking nice. Any tips for what to use? It is a five foot by two foot table with a lower shelf that I will drop a big green egg grill into.

  • @tsheehan7

    I would probably use a good quality oil based exterior paint / deck finish. Generally, varnishes are not really meant for 'working' surfaces as it scratches too easily and many finishes have a difficult time bonding with pressure treated wood. Check with the major paint manufacturers to see what they have for treating exterior stairs/decks as they are generally built with PTL. Hopefully they have something that gives the appearance you're looking for. Hope this helps!

see all

All Comments (12)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • @Caribsailor Good to hear your making progress :-) I don't know of any kind of additive to flatten the finish, generally you go over top with another product that gives this kind of finish; Goldspar Satin or Epifanes Rubbed Effect Varnish are both good choices (1-2 coats). When finishing, if possible it's best to do this off the boat and install the panels when they are done. If not possible, remove all cushions, blankets, etc (things that hold dust) and clean, clean, clean. Wipe everything!

  • @boatworkstoday

    Thanks for the information, I'm am almost to the finishing stage off my cabin sole and need more input. I have rough fitted all the sole panels and it looks fantastic from what it was. I'm going to finish everything as you have shared and I was planning to use Interlux Perfection 2 part varnish. My first questions, is there an additive for a satin finish? and when final fitting the sole panels what would you suggest be removed to allow for finishing?

  • @Caribsailor

    It would work very well, however I would consider 2 things; personally I prefer to use a satin finish (rather than high gloss) for interior work, also for a flooring project a 2 part varnish will give you a much harder surface (less prone to scratches and will wear better under foot traffic). I don't really recommend 1 part finishes for "wear surfaces" as it's just too soft. :-)

  • Thank you for the tutorial .

    Would you recommend this process for a new teak & holly cabin sole?

  • @GradyBB

    It's never a bad idea; there wouldn't be any need to coat with the varnish, just the epoxy would be good. On the pieces I made for the video, they were being mounted with a bedding compound which seals out the moisture, so that's why I didn't epoxy the backside.

  • I enjoyed the video. I don't recall any comments on the "bottom" of the piece of wood. Is it necessary to coat the bottom or can it be left unfinished?

Loading...

Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more