Cleaning Up

This is video footage of my first cleaning of a sport route. I took my time, but I got it done safely and deliberately. Thanks to Jason for teaching me the steps.

Category:

Sports

Tags:

• rock
• climbing
• moab
• utah
• sport
• clean
• anchor

[rannix18]

you should never test anchors.

[intere]

@rannix18 And why is that? According to the material that I've read, and my experience in sport climbing, I call tell you that the opposite is true. You should always test holds and protection; since your life depends on it.

[20ROBERT101]

That was the long way to do it, you could of just tied in to anchor the with the daisy chain. then untie your figure of eight from your harness then thread it through the anchor then retie the figure eight back on to your harness then allow your belayer to lower you. It's much safer than repelling

[intere]

@20ROBERT101 Normally - you're absolutely right. Rapping is more complicated, however due to the fact that I could not hear or see the belayer - rapping was probably the safer route to go here.

[cbuck89]

always good to tie a stopper knot on the section being lowered to the ground... just to be safe

[intere]

@cbuck89 I totally agree with you. Too many accidents have occurred because of not doing that. This was actually the first time I'd ever cleaned up a route.  That would have been a great thing to do here especially because I can't see the ground from the anchors. Luckily for me - you live and learn...

[Joker53150]

I disagree with those who want to simply lower through the chains. That creates extra wear on them compared to rappelling and then pulling the un-weighted rope. This method, although longer and more involved, will help keep the fixed gear from wearing prematurely.

[smgetrost]

@20ROBERT101 dude thats not the correct way to clean a route. by doing it the way your saying puts wear on the rapelling rings and makes wear marks on the rings after so many people doing it like that. if you lower yourself there is no rope acually moving throu the rings which gives the anchors more life and doesnt destroy them... theres nothing wrong with lowering yourself, if u climb u should be confident in lowering yourself and u can always get a firemans catch:]

[OFFICIALVIDEOCRITIC1]

YOU.DIDNT.PUT.A.FIGER.8.IN.THE­.BOTTOM.OF.THE.ROPE.BEFORE.RAP­PLING.

IF.YOUR.ROPE.DIDNT.TOUCH.THE.F­LOOR.YOU.WOULD.NOW.BE.DEAD!!!

[Northernblades]

new climber, and no prussik  tisk tisk

[Northernblades]

@Joker53150 +1 Lowering off chains is a douche move.

[Northernblades]

I do have to laugh a little bit, first of, double sets of locking crabs for top anchor. WOW.

nothing against overkill, but WOW.

I would not have removed BOTH the top draws atthe same time. the risk of fumbling, and dropping one or both, looked realy high the way you did it. looked aquard.

Also in the event, that the climb is not steep enough to actualy drop the rope down, coil and throw, prevents it from getting tangled, or caught.

[Northernblades]

@intere Rapping off anchor rings is a doush thing to do. It causes unnessesary wear and tear, on rings that are not often replaced, (especialy chains)

only a douch uses a belayer to lower him off of chains.

the rings on this climb were more easily replaceable, but ask yourself this, how many have you put up? and how many have you replaced?

It is not your place, rapp off them like you know what your doing, instead of letting everyone else replace the damage you have done.

[res813]

@20ROBERT101 lowering off the chains will wear the rope more, but both methods are fine.