Stretchy.org: How to make a catsuit 5: sewing
Uploader Comments (sleekweasel)
All Comments (4)
-
Thank you so much for posting these videos, I'm planning on making an Evangelion Asuka cosplay and I couldn't find any good commercial patterns :)
-
Do you have any experience in working with PVC?
I'm interested in having a Power Rangers costume like the ones they used in the movie, where they were made out of PVC, with rigid plastic parts added for detail (while the TV series just used spandex). The only Power Rangers costumes I can buy online are the spandex ones, so the only way to have a PVC+plastic costume is to make one myself.
I have no experience in making this kind of things, so I could really use some advice on how to proceed.
-
can you suggest a sewing machine (make n model) for me to look out for?, ta
-
THIS KICKS ASS!!! YEAAAHHH!!
You can buy 4-way spandex-backed PVC which has a degree of stretch and would probably be the best thing to use. It's less stretchy than plain spandex, so you have to be careful what sort of scaling factor you use - I'd suggest something subtle like 97%. I think you want to use 'colour blocking' - see the stretchy(dot)org website - for the details. For obtaining the rigid plastic and securing it... I'm afraid I don't know - maybe sew cotton patches to the suite and use hot-glue?
sleekweasel 2 years ago
Please see the video description for this pattern described in text on the website: it may be easier to follow there.
sleekweasel 4 years ago
Firstly, I'm not experienced in buying machines! I just bought what looked OK or was available in the form that I wanted. My more professional friend tells me that Janome and Husquvarna are particularly good brands.
My overlock/serger is a Brother machine, something like the 3034D. My conventional machine is a starter Huskqvarna Huskystar, like an E10 or E20. My coverlock machine is a Janome CoverPro 1000.
sleekweasel 4 years ago
Another thing - this fabric's quite floppy, so I put elastic into both upper and lower overlap casings here, but I've found it's best NOT to elasticate the upper one, or the shoulder dart seams are pulled waaaay too much. (I've not tried leaving the lower one unelasticated - that might be a good experiment too).
sleekweasel 4 years ago
Oh, and the edge of the half sleeve past the big arrow - only about an inch down from the point is sewn into the dart seam (where it follows the fold): the rest of it just sort-of flaps around inside the suit. I suppose you can trim that if you prefer, but I've not found it to be a problem in practice.
sleekweasel 4 years ago
At 3:40, I say you can use a conventional machine by sewing a 3mm x 3mm zig-zag, about 2mm in from the edges. '2mm in from the edge' is, of course, a dreadful simplification - you'll need to experiment with your machine with some scraps of cloth to find out how it behaves, and you may need to add more seam allowance, then sew, then trim the allowance.
sleekweasel 4 years ago