18th Century Layers (1780-1790)

18th century clothing layers appropriate for the upper-middle class lady or noblewoman, 1780-1790.

1. Before the gown (robe), you begin with the basics:

a). Linen chemise (e.g. shift)

b). Stockings and silk ribbon garters (shoes not included in this video)

c). Stays (corset)

d). A "modesty" slip (not included in this video)

e). Optional cap

If the cap is not going to be worn, it's usually best to have the hair done beforehand, but this is largely optional. My hair is styled in the messy "hedge-hog" pouf typical of the period.

2. The first layer is one of five hip supports seen in the 18th century. The period 1780-1790 commonly used bum rolls, bum pads or hip pads. Here, I used a bum pad.

3. Next are the petticoats, usually three or four that may be made out of cheap fabric. I use two here to expedite the process. Authentic petticoats should have drawstrings that tie in front and back. This made them waist-adjustable, crucial for 18th century frugality.

4. If your ensemble includes a decorative silk taffeta or satin petticoat, put that on. Otherwise, the last layer below the waist should be a plain white muslin. Muslin was a popular petticoat choice from 1780-1790 besides silk.

5. You fasten a jacket, gown, redingote (riding coat), etc over the stays with pins or hooks and eyes (buttons were rarely used but not unseen). The typical gowns for this period were the robe à l'anglaise (English robe) and polonaise, besides an endless variety of jackets and redingotes. These (excepting the redingote) were initially informal garments that became extremely popular day wear, otherwise very formal social events called for the older, larger robe à la française. Here, I am putting on a kind of jacket and large hat based off of a fashion plate. This kind of ensemble was common in the last half of the 18th century and would usually include sashes, reticules (a handbag that had replaced the pocket), decorative aprons and fashionable sticks.

Category:

Howto & Style

Tags:

• costume
• 18th
• century
• fashion
• 18th century layers
• woman
• noblewoman
• 1700
• marie antoinette
• baroque dance
• neoclassicism
• mozart
• piano sonata
• 17th century
• gainsborough
• duchess cavendish
• paniers
• cc
• con
• corsetry
• clothing
• historical
• hats
• turn
• of
• the
• stays

[FeminaSeneca]

I love the romanticism of our modern perception of the 18th century, but I know I would hate the reality. The paintings make everything look so beautiful, but we have to remember that these people almost never took a proper bath, and they wore clothing dozens of times before they were cleaned. They powdered their hair for looks, but also to cover up the grease and stench. I would not wish to go back to it.

[cazonetta]

@FeminaSeneca True, our modern (mostly cinematic) perception is of an idealized, romanticized 18th century life. As we have not lived in any past century, we do stretch, invent or compress the reality of it, and when has that not been the case within any point in history up until the present? There will always be a pro vs. con - sometimes things are not as bad or as good as we make them out to be, or the bad and good coexist side by side.

[cazonetta]

@FeminaSeneca For example, if you had read from first-hand accounts of 18th century laundering and not relied on urban myth and/or films/modern literary interpretations, you would've known that the essentials, underclothes, *were* washed constantly, if not obsessively. Clothes meant to be seen did not require any because they were *never* in touching proximity to their wearer as ours are today. This is where the myth of "dirty clothing" comes from. And people did, in fact, take baths.

[cazonetta]

@FeminaSeneca Remember, men wore wigs that were cleaned by boiling water. They maintained closely cropped hair to help in lice control. Women wore their natural hair and used hair or wool padding to lengthen and build volume in their hair - not unlike our use of hair extensions today. Powder was used to conceal the varying shades of hair from this (blonde hair used by a light brunette, for example) and on oily hair. The rate of hair washing was by preference and so depended on the individual.

[averyniceponytail]

what did you use to fill your bum pad? i'm really out of ideas (except for sponge, but i don't know if that's practical).

great costumes by the way!

[cazonetta]

@averyniceponytail Historically, it is said they were filled with cork, but as I couldn't figure out how to find enough to fill a bum pad without buying 100 bottles of wine, I used the stuffing you find in pillows. A somewhat amateur-ish approach, but it served it's purpose. :)

[AstridMargoTheWriter]

i wish i could go back in time to that period, i feel as if, right now humans are just like robots. I long for 16th century, i believe i was born in the wrong century

[stargirlistrania]

how i love the 18th century!! Want to born in it !! In my century everybody are stupid:/

[ManilaSyndicate]

@FeminaSeneca Very true. Regular bathing only became common in the West after World War II. Hard to believe, but true.

[ManilaSyndicate]

Interesting, it's like a painting from the era come to life. Thanks for sharing.

[lolitaloveshetalia]

@MsLiew1901 thats because a woman could not become a single mom with out being completely rejected and looked down on from society or disowned by thier whole family and their is no way a woman could become a multi-millionaire because you dont work your only hope is to marry one and hope he doesnt cheat on you for some one younger when you get old i love the clothes yes but not the way they treat people

[MsLiew1901]

@lolitaloveshetalia Actually, I kinda like that your life was a bit more predictable. There was no wondering if you would grow up and become a single mom, or if you would be a multi-millionaire.

[MouthOfTheUnknown]

but where can you wear this clothing?

[lolitaloveshetalia]

@MsLiew1901 why is that a good thing back then girls were not allowed to choose who their friends were your whole life would be about marrying, cleaning, bareing sons, cooking, and you would have no right to form opinons or vote i would not want to be apart of that age sure they had great clothes and art but thats not worth my freedom