Episode 11: Bare Bones Ascending

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Occasionally rock climbers and canyoneers are faced with the prospect of self-rescue. That is, the participant has encountered a situation where they cannot continue - the rope is too short, the rope is damaged, the rope is severed, etc... and they must ascend the rope to rescue themselves from that situation.

Ideally, if self-rescue is happening, you are equipped with a great setup of mechanical ascenders, foot loop of some sort, multiple chains, runners, carabiners, etc... that are all within reach of you. But, assuming you don't have any of those items on your person, self-rescue can appear to be a daunting task.

However, if you possess a chain of some sort, an autoblock, and a rappel device you have all the tools you need to ascend back up your rope. In this technique tip we are just ascending on one rope, but the technique holds true for double rope ascensions as well.

If you practice the described technique please do so in as controlled an environment as possible. If you mis-rig this system you may fall and injure or kill yourself. Furthermore if you are unable to lock off your progress and your friction hitch fails you may also fall and injure or kill yourself. Regardless of the tools, self rescue is serious business and deserves some serious training.

Check out all the self-rescue training options at http://www.alpinets.com/canyoneering.html and http://www.alpinets.com/rockclimbing.html

Category:

Education

Tags:

• canyoneering
• canyoning
• self
• rescue
• rock
• climbing
• ascend
• ascenders

[cuttingman6969]

how do you have your chain secured to your harness?

also am I seeing correctly you have your chain secured to your harness and the beaner that your ATC device is on and then you use the remaining to attach to the prusik?

[ATSadventures]

@cuttingman6969 The chain reactor (made by Sterling Rope) is girthed onto the harness via the strong points of the waist loop and leg loops that the belay loop runs through. You simply girth it parallel to the belay loop.

You are correct. The ATC is clipped into the structural dogbone of the chain reactor in proper use form and the end of the chain is capturing the carabiner of the prusik hitch. You can email us at info@alpinets.com with more questions.

[dbb6]

I love your videos...They have been very instructional...I do have one question though, I had learned that hanging on a single friction hitch is risky bad form...Does the non backed-up atc below then count as a backup for the prussik above?

[ATSadventures]

Yes and no. If you fall into the prusik and it doesn't grab and you aren't prepared to be holding the brake line, you would most likely keep falling. However, since you tied a foot loop with the bottom of the rope, you would stop at the end of the rope. Not something to count on, but better than nothing. The concept of bare bones ascending assumes that you were relatively unprepared for your ascent that day and are assuming certain liabilities, but it's better than the alternative.

[payrentonline1]

That is great information!! Hope that I never have to use a set up like that to get myself out of somewhere but it is great to know!

[bonagin]

Great video! I learned a lot!

[lowjack100]

nice

[JudgHolden30]

Are there any videos demonstrating proper use of the Greasy Granny?