'Old master' still life painting...

Loading...

Sign in or sign up now!
Alert icon
Upgrade to the latest Flash Player for improved playback performance. Upgrade now or more info.
42,580
Loading...
Alert icon
Sign in or sign up now!
Alert icon

Uploaded by on Aug 3, 2011

http://www.postcardfromholland.com (larger image/subscribe to new paintings)


(well, 'old master'...) It's dutch in any case. Painting another larger still life painting for my open studio (coming soon). Using artificial light again with some spot lights on the subject and a fluorescent tube for lighting the easel... The medium was 6 parts linseed oil and 1 part walnut alkyd medium by Graham, giving me 3 days of wet into wet painting (provided the painting is in the freezer at night).

Category:

Education

Tags:

License:

Standard YouTube License

  • likes, 4 dislikes

Link to this comment:

Share to:

Uploader Comments (josvanr)

  • hello, hm 'makinig paint float' that is something I haven't heard before. (or dont remember). I use a medium of equal parts linseed oil and liquin, and oil out the panel before I start to paint. lately I've been using chardboard to paint on (acid free etc)...This has some structure to it but not as much as canvas..

  • I've been a David Leffel fan for many years and now I'm yours. You tighten up were David stops. Im self taught and still manange to sell my work but would like to more about making the paint float. Is the canvas primed with rabbit skin and are you using Maroger? Thank you for the inspiration. MTL

  • @myachinass Hi for medium I use equal parts linseed oil and liquin (or Graham walnut alkyd). Before I start to paint I oil out the entire panel. As painting surface I lately use cardboard (glued to mdf), prepared with acrylic varnish....

  • I was wondering what colors did you use?

  • @mkudaibe I use the following pigments, put out in this order on my palette: titanium white, scheveningen yellow lemon (a greenish yellow), cadmium yellow dark, scheveningen red, alizarine crimson (should use a permanent one in the future, the one from winsor & newton maybe), ultramarine violet, ultramarine blue dark, transparent oxide red, scheveningen green, sap green, wijnranken black (barely ever use this, only for some very dark thin lines).

  • What kind of brush is best to create that smooth and realistic surface? :o

  • @yarmamzer hi, the most important tning in getting smooth gradients is to use enough and opaque paint. To wipe away brush strokes I use large 'elma' house painter's brushes and sometimes langnickle 5520 (the larger sizes). The realism you get by observing well...

see all

All Comments (37)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • Loved watching you paint! Beautiful work!

  • I like it

  • You have a nice photograph there...

  • I like this demo much more than the blah blah talkies mostly on utube. and no distracting heavenly music.

  • Thanks very much. I appreciate your time and your talent....my next big hurtle to overcome is knowing when to STOP!!! LOL

Loading...
Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more