How To Remove Lathe and Plaster

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Uploaded by on May 18, 2011

This video shows the removal of wood lathe and plaster from a 1920's home. The lathe and plaster is being removed for complete access to interior and exterior walls so that the house can be upgraded and renovated properly. This allows for the proper installation of insulation (thermal and acoustic), wiring, plumbing and HVAC.

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Science & Technology

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Uploader Comments (JamesGlassProperties)

  • Ha. I've taken the lath camping before as starter wood. It burns fast and hot since it's so dry! I've been recycling the plaster in the garden. With compost and mulch it eventually makes great soil. I usually let it cook as I till it for three years or so adding more compost. If any trace lead was present, it's gone after phytoremediation! I do a soil test for heavy metals and ph before using it for soil.

  • as the cost of just installing the new wall. But, it's the right thing to do if you need a lot of heat or AC, especially the former since you can always choose to sweat it out, but you must have heat.

    Anyway, if you're in a moderate climate, have vermiculite, and the plaster is generally OK, then I'd just repair it with veneer plaster. You can get this at any hardware or big box store by the bag. You mix it yourself. It takes talent to make the repairs, so heads up!

  • resilient channel or some sort of firring system will increase thermal value. I also don't know where you live, but if it is Zone 6 or higher, you will need to understand building science on vapor barriers, etc. You might have vermiculite inside the block, but that has a very low R value.

    If you have high energy costs due to a very cold or very warm climate, then a 2x4 wall set back about an inch from the block insulated with R-13 is a good start. This will require rewiring as well (more)

  • only the finish coat is damaged, you can repair those spots with plaster. You'll either need to learn how to do this with a hawk and trowel or hire someone.

    On the other hand, if the wall is very badly damaged, then you have to decide to replaster extensively or install drywall with resilient channel. If money is an issue, drywall over the proper moisture barrier with insulation and resilient channel is very expensive.

    I don't know how this masonry wall is insulated, but installing (more)

  • It sounds like you live in a masonry house, most likely 8" CMU with scratch coat/finish coat plaster applied directly to the block. Is this the case?

    If so, then inspect the overall condition of the plaster and look for moisture problems. If you find areas that have fail due to moisture damage, you must first solve the moisture problem.

    Assuming you have no moisture problem, then assess the general condition of the plaster. If the vast majority of it is sound and (more in next box)

  • Well, if I was restoring Monticello, then original walls would be critical to historic preservation. On the other hand, if someone wants increased thermal / acoustic value, modern plumbing, and modern wiring, then the highest and best use of materials is to remove the lathe and plaster, access and correct structure and then comprehensive renovate. There's no inherent value in leaving the plaster, although it was sound enough, that isn't the point.

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  • Taking the lath and plaster off separately is very important. FINALLY someone has included that in their video. The lath does make a nice bonfire for the evening after the job.

  • Excellent video!

    my house was built in 1924. I am in the process of doing exactly this, however I have a question...

    On the outside walls there is just plaster then block. How would I go about repairing this? use drywall? Plaster those outside walls again? I need the most cost efficient way possible.

    Thank you for your help!

  • whatever u do, do not remove it, look up plaster and lath repair, plaster and lath is added value to your home!

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