How to Use Climbing Anchors as a Leading Climber

Sport Climbing trainer Chris Lindner shows you several climbing anchors and explains how to use them and tie into them as a leading climber in sport climbing.

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Video was found on www.5min.com. Thanks to the original uploader there.

Category:

Sports

Tags:

• sport
• climbing
• anchor
• belay
• tie-in
• tie-into
• knot
• figure
• eight
• hitch
• muenter
• safety
• howto
• rope

[thomaselgarsmith]

@bikeclochard  couldnt agree more, this is a daft way to climb

[bikeclochard]

I don't get it: do people nowadays not have enough money for a screwgate carabiner for toproping? it's lighter, saver, simpler and at least cheaper than using 2 quickdraws (even if you yuse 2 carabiners)......

[bikeclochard]

@mtnhiker94

yes but he says around 0:45 that two quickdraws are a good setup for toproping, and I disagree.

[mtnhiker94]

@bikeclochard hess not topropping hes lead climbing

[Lachsfilet]

Quickdraw here, quickdraw there.. oh, did I mention the quickdraw already?

This is a unsafe and totally unprofessional way of doing it.

Awful..

[rshamman]

wrong! nobody clean an anchor the way this guy does. this is wrong. make sure you know the correct way before trying. it can be life or death. death sooner rather than later for this guy though.

[erikkloeker]

@ZeroContentSF Yeah it's a pretty big problem down here, even the stainless steel is no match for repeated lowerings, the sand gets in the rope and it becomes sandpaper.

[t64169]

so none of this is really..."wrong" but it's surely not right...or smart.

[Berzerkdj]

sneeze unclip ... shit AHHHHHHHHH

[grubwestatron]

this is stupid.. i never have the rope untied from me. usless i have not other choice.. i always feed a bite through the anchors tie a figure8 on a bite clip the to me then untie my original 8... and i never ever clip to snappy biners together! just asking for trouble

[ZeroContentSF]

@erikkloeker Second the not lowering off the fixed gear. I was in RRG 4 weeks ago and just this last week and saw pretty experienced climbers lowering off the anchors instead of rappelling. Pissed me off since you can already see grooves developing on the gear because of this practice.

[zodiac272]

two non locking carabiners chained together can easily unclip from each other if twisted in the proper directions. try it... will that ever happen in this situation? probably not... but why tempt fate. why not girth hitch a "lifeline" to the harness with a locker? to save a few ounces?. jmho and also why not top rope off quick draws attached to the first ring on the bolt hanger? eliminate all the unnecessary links in the chain