Climbing-Happy-Hour-Crag-Building-an-Anchor.MP4
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Uploaded by AdventureWithApexEx on Apr 30, 2011
How to build a traditional climbing anchor. A professional climbing guide with Apex Ex based in Boulder Colorado demonstrates how to build a trad anchor with three cams and a stopper placement. For professional instruction visit www.ApexEx.com
- 10 likes, 4 dislikes
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Without explaining more, such as why you were on belay the whole time, and not clipped into any of the many pieces you had just placed, this is a really dangerous video to be showing as instructional. I'm a pretty novice trad climber, and this whole video made me nervous.
MrCalbike 1 month ago
a couple of things, 1, blue cam goes in clip in and go off belay, while you fiddle with the slowest anchor bulid Ive seen, your partner can strip down the belay, tie in and get ready climb. 2. in a questionable block use passive gear and try to find another seperate crack just in case that block slips. 3. With the dog up there I guessing yer at the top, but if there was another pitch than save the cam for the next lead.
aikidophreak 1 month ago
Thanks for posting!
-This was filmed on a goPro "gonzosspl"
Additional suggestion for the budding trad leader:
-Try to construct anchors using exclusively passive protection (nuts/ hexes). This will help you in the long run when you move into the multipitch setting. Rather than swapping the rack over to the next pitch's leader without cams because they've been used for the anchor, save those easier-to-place pieces for your partner and use up your nuts instead. Your partner will thank you!
Stiltz1291 1 month ago
4 pieces of gear? All in the same crack (loose block?)? 6 minutes to build an anchor? Professional guide?
NickIF 1 month ago
@crazyphilio
it is really good quality vid.
what helmet cam is that?
gonzosspl 3 months ago
Wondering if the rock you placed all your pro under is a detached boulder...can't really tell from the video what the macro rock quality is. Doesn't appear that you locked the carabiner which provides you braking action on your guide atc. agree with CesarVadas...you could have anchored yourself with that first cam or two....yes, I know it appears you are on a big ledge but you are a professional & held to a higher standard.
mtnfun37 3 months ago
You did all this without holding yourself first?
CesarVadas 4 months ago
awesome quality video for a helmet cam
crazyphilio 6 months ago