Dustin's fall

Lead climbing fall at Joshua Tree, Split Rocks area, Future games rock, "Bendix Claws" 5.11a.
Good clean fall and he finished the climb without any more falls. He later top-roped the climb two times and he said he fell both times. Other people in the area said it was a very difficult climb even on top rope.
This points out the need to extend nuts on a sling so they don't get pulled out in a fall or rope drag.

Dustin (my 20 year old son, climbing for 7 years) said that this was his first ever lead fall.
As an interesting note, my first lead fall was in Yosemite (on my first lead climb) and Dustin was belaying me and I fell about 15 feet onto a #5 nut hurting my heel, but I finished the climb.
Now, I'm belaying Dustin, and he has his first lead fall on the very same #5 nut!!!! is it fate?

Category:

Sports

Tags:

• rock
• climbing

[batumshockalocka]

Nice job protecting and falling cleanly without injury. Armchair analysts go lead that route and then criticize!

[evanvideo]

yeah can't be really considered a "clean" fall if you zipper a piece leaving you with only one piece to keep you from grounding. Extend it or make it directional next time.

you want to always keep that rope in as straight a line as possible because when you fall thats exactly what its going to do!

oh and careful on the rope behind the heel!! you caught yourself doing that twice lol

[atthecrux]

Nice example of the zipper effect. Glad to see no one was hurt. Maybe should of used a small TCU for a directional. Although it's hard to tell exactly what to use from a computer screen...so I'll just shut up! Climb ON and have fun...

[RazFettMon]

thats why you dont place a nut for your first peice