From Mughal Serai we hire a boatman for 150 rupees to row us up the Mother Ganga to the old city of Varanasi. Formerly called Banares, it is believed to be over 6000 years old, and it is the most auspicious place to be cremated for Hindus. Everything here is about preparing for, celebrating, or buying or selling goods or services all connected with dying. It's where Death rules.
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