How To Fiberglass - Mold Layup

My next video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzng9HeGNPE

Information and a demonstration of how I layup one of my molds. Headlight eyelids. Big thanks to Randy Roach(GlasserGlass) for some handy tips and some inspiration to make a vid or two.

EDIT(30/May/08):

I noticed this video has got 7000 views in 2 months so it looks like ill do another one for you all. Considering how many people are viewing this video I thought I would clear up any misunderstanding and give allot more text info here relating to the video.

I only put one wax application on this mold because its an older mold and its been well used. For fresh molds you must put several layers of wax on and I would consider PVA as well if the mold is less then a week old. Always use PVA (or equivalent) on your plug surface before molding.

Ive got allot of PMs about the gun. The gun used in this video is just a very cheap method of spraying gelcoat on some of my smaller molds. For the larger parts, tooling gelcoat or for anything I want precision, I use a HLVP gun with a 3.5mm tip. Most of the time for these small parts I just brush gelcoats, you can get just as good results. When brushing leave longer then usual before resin/CSM, I usually leave it overnight. This is so that any high spots from the bristle streaks have time to fully cure. If you layup over any wet gelcoat you will get alligatoring(crocodiling) reactions on the surface. There is no maximuim time between gelcoat and resin/CSM. Gelcoats do not contain wax which means they will stay tacky and ready for resin for weeks and even months. As long as there isn't big temp changes (which causes peeling) or dust/debris in the area.

2% catalyst is for a normal day (temperature and humidity). For a hotter day use 1-1.5% and for a cooler day use 2.5-3%. Standard polyester resins don't require this finesse but for gelcoats it is good to be accurate to avoid any kind of reaction. You should not fiberglass in really cold weather. Catalyst is by weight, and you should buy some cheap kitchen scales and a chemist syringe to measure it correctly.

The mixing cups I use are called heavy duty party cups, made in china. I get them at a local discount variety store (Clarksons Discounts) at a ridiculous 80cents for a pack of 25. They withstand all resins fine and are good for a 300g mix max. Not all plastic cups will hold up to resin, I suggest buying samples of all available cups to you. See which ones work or not then buy more.

225g/sq meter CSM = 0.75oz/sq ft CSM. (Not to be confused with the imperial woven cloth measurement of oz/sq yard)

WAX = Carnauba wax (release agent).
FG = Fiberglass
CSM = Chopped Strand Matte(reinforcement)
PVA = Polyvinyl alcohol (release agent)
Plug = The original item that your creating a mold of.
Mold = A negative replica of the plug, specifically a 'tool' mold.

If you want to ask me more questions on a project of yours etc you can contact me on MSN punk28186@hotmail.com. If you add me please tell me your from youtube asap.

Category:

Howto & Style

Tags:

• fiberglass
• mold
• mould
• making
• layup
• automotive
• gelcoat
• how
• to
• magna
• diamante
• mitsubishi
• vrx
• eyelids
• eyebrows
• millencolin

[TheSaltysack]

hey can i use fiberglass to make a mold for fiberglass so a fiberglass mold for a fiberglass item

[punk28186]

@TheSaltysack Yes, no problem.

[TEAMSCREAM12]

Never mind, i see the other cup you showed in the video, it is just a cleaning gun that you buy and not something that was built, did you modify it at all?

[punk28186]

@TEAMSCREAM12 No modification, just used a mix cup instead of the stock tin reseviour.

[actiondan08]

Hi mate great vid. What i'm after is making a mould of my motorbike fairings. I have the originals so i can use those as a plug, just making sure to use the male side rather than the female? Is that right? Also because of the paint work on the original part how thick (or layers) should the glass be? Many thanks mate

[punk28186]

@actiondan08 Yes, male side with the finished surface. To be clear you make the negative tooling mold first, then the replica part. No need to go overboard with the layers, a few layers for the mold and a few for the part. This has nothing to do with the paint. Remember to flange the parts and use two release agents to make the mold. Goos luck mate.

[badmattitude666]

how did you make the molds? great work btw magna looks mint.

[GamingAndScootering]

cool man 

[0adireita]

@tasmania105 wax the shit out of the plywood!

[tasmania105]

Can I use plywood to make a mold for fiberglass? If so, how do I prevent the fiberglass from sticking to the plywood? Thanks!

[uberw00t123]

@monroezzz Enshures a smooth texture free surface upon which you would paint, or you could get a gell coat in whatever color you wanted and then youd have no need to paint afterwards. I belive one could also just use a layer of resin, let it harded to the point of tacky, then apply a few layers of fiber glass to that. youd achive a smooth texture free surface but id would look ugly as hell till you painted it

[mrchino4u]

@wertyq95 so we installed fiberglass in your fiberglass so you can fiberglass while you fiberglass haha



[HiJackZX1]

OK, Im super newb at this. I want to delete my side mirrors and create a small case for cameras in its place. How would I go about doing that. I mean can I use cardboard to get the shapes I want, kinda like a mold? Because I need to be able to break the mold down from the inside out.

[monroezzz]

What purpose does the gelcoat serve? I'm new to the process and just curious.

[joekinney]

@TheSaltysack

Fiberglass?