Petzl.com - The Fly

Petzl presents:
Tony Lamiche - The Fly (9a)
Rumney, USA
Rock Climbing

Category:

Sports

Tags:

• petzl
• rock
• climbing

[lopside0]

jazzfreek2: I'm not the best climber around either, but I think your priorities are dead wrong if you're so worried about climbing grade that this ascent seems 'ethically unsound.' You shouldn't have to ethically justify what amounts to little more than bragging rights. While you're worried about the number you're climbing, I'm going to keep sending the hardest stuff I can, and I'm going to have a great time doing it.

[nzclimberflipper]

jason kehl has done it with no rope and as you can see in this video tony did toperope this climb but the amount of slack he had there was no way that was aiding his assent of this climb,to rate climbers cant afford to risk breaking their ankles.when you guyscan climb this climb the feel free to leve a comment.and saying that he is insulting the person who did first ascent is insulting tony and others who have done this,its an incredible feet they have done,so dont take it away from them!

[niggerlips11]

just live your life

[thejugglingfool]

way to stickt to it man

[brkarma]

tbh if you're around F6c/7a you should just stfu...

[grizDG]

yo i got on this problem last weekend n pulled up n stuck the first throw n im a 5.12 climber but haha im a freak when it comes down to crimps n yes pullin off the ground is really hard but im still workin on it and the holds fry ur tips

[sanchn0r]

I meant to say Ditto what Jazzfreek2 said.

ps: Grade fiends are also extremely annoying and are not fun to climb with. Climb lines that are aesthetically pleasing whether the grade is hard or not. I personally don't care if I climb a 5.12d or a 5.9... However I will admit it does get a bit boring when you're stuck with someone who only wants to climb so-called "classic" 5.7s and 5.8s.

[sanchn0r]

Ditto what this guy said... you guys are incredibly ignorant if you can't see the point he's making.

IMO: Jason Kehl probably has the purest ascent of this line (with solo repeat by Kevin Jorgeson on April 11th). However, its still not in the original style of the climb. Start from the bottom, clip the first quickdraw, make a couple of moves, clip the second, couple more moves, clip the anchor. DONE. That's the definition of a sport climb send.

[jazzfreek2]

Ethics have nothing to do with grades. If someone starts claiming ascents on top-rope it completely negates the effort put in by ascentionists who stick their neck out and climb ground up. If you want to top-rope hard stuff thats fine, just don't claim a repeat if that wasn't the original style of ascent. Its an insult to the climber who risked their ass opening the line originally. And its the beauty of a line that inspires me to climb...grades are just an easy way to quantify.

[astrodog11]

I want to apologize - I see what you're saying.  However, stickclipping is considered acceptable at Rumney. DG on the FA clipped two bolts (facing groundfall). Some subsequent ascents have simply clipped the second bolt, so in effect, the crux is top roped. Still, shades of grey...it's not properly a lead, not properly a TR, really not a solo, and not even a boulder problem in the sense that "good style" still mandates TR rehearsal.