Green Stuff Molds - Part 3

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Uploaded by on Aug 8, 2007

Visit http://www.chaos-dwarfs.com for more info!

Part 3 of a guide to show you how to make green stuff molds and green stuff casts using kneadite.

Step 3 shows the removal of the Green Stuff cast, and trimming the excess. Also features a recap of the process.

FYI, mold is the correct spelling in the US, and mould is the correct spelling in the UK. Either is acceptable in Canada.

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Uploader Comments (XanderXereus)

  • wow! dude you should make a tutorial on how to accurately mold two sided models like an actual warhammer firgure or something!

  • 2 sided molds are very difficult simply with green stuff. You need more regular molding processes for which there are other videos you can find online on hobby sites.

  • "FYI, mold is the correct spelling in the US, and mould is the correct spelling in the UK. Either is acceptable in Canada." As stated in the notes.

    Yes, the wheel is replicated. The videos are for Miniature users, so it caters to that audience.

  • Check out my Hobgoblin video series for info about Green Stuff aka Kneadite. It's a two part epoxy putty that cures after a couple hours once mixed. I buy mine from Gale Force Nine. Thanks for your comment.

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All Comments (31)

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  • Great video mate, exactly what I was looking for.

  • This is perfect for making books on shoulder pats, you only need 1 side to have the shape and the other one should stick to the should pat.

    Thanks for the nice tutorial!

  • this ican be a huge money saver for dublicating miniature peices . i can imaging you can even mass produce with what ever mold you created. that said, there are a bunch of tiny warhammer 40k individual pieces, like a forge wotld shoulder pad or power fist or head, can this method work if i use two molds on either side and enclose a ball off greenstuff inside?

  • i like your ring its pretty sick!

  • cant you use a harder curing putty and a second stage of greenstuff (along with the proper lubricant) to make models of 3D items with this method that hold more details? Personally I plan to try making a variant power axe using this method with a few modifications to stick on my Rune Priest.

  • nice tutorial thanks buddy :)

  • The mould won't last forever. But you can get quite a few uses out of it. Its good for hard to get bits. I even made a two piece mold of a skeleton left arm, old skeleton face and some cadian symbols. The lose in detail verys but the more simple the mould the less is loss. Its great for space marine shoulder symbols.

    Take a blank shoulder and one with the symbol you want. Make a mould of the sybol then cast it on the blank pad.

  • should mould two sides of a model and put them together and mould a base and paint or make the model a statue

  • what has the world come too?!

  • Perhaps you could do like the detail side and then carve it out if you get me...

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