It took just 10 seconds from letting go of the tow rope to rocketing into the channel in a gale of compressed air and spray. 10 seconds that sprang from obsessive training and preparation. The apex of one man's life all came together at a very special moment.
10 seconds that shook the surfing world, erasing so many notions of what can and can't be done on a wave... and even of what a wave can look like. Arguably the thickest, heaviest wave ever ridden. Maybe the most dangerous too.
laird for president !!!
alienax2 2 years ago