Pool Test Kit, 5-way. Poolmaster 22260 5-way test kit
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Published on May 22, 2012
1) Aquachek & HTH Test Strips: http://youtu.be/hHhabkd5A0s
2) For chemicals to use in your pool see this video: http://youtu.be/eZeqg2O4hJo
3) To calculate your pool volume (how many gallons): http://youtu.be/ybenKQ1Z5dQ
4) To learn about Conditioner: http://youtu.be/OLDVjtL2NcQ
5) Shocktrine: Burning eyes and cloudy water: http://youtu.be/RY40vgJo6Nc
6) For Black Algae Treatment: http://youtu.be/qga1ZxU6m6U
7) For removing Yellow & Mustard Algae: http://youtu.be/mrZqMCiGtnc
8) For GREEN pool clean-up: http://youtu.be/ydIysBIHhWo
9) For Fiberglass Spa chemicals: http://youtu.be/nYAJBWKxMPs
10) Chemicals for Colored Plaster, Vinyl, Fiberglass pools http://youtu.be/aUGlDfzQAiM
11) For High Alkalinity, how to lower Alkalinity: http://youtu.be/dD7B3QzCNdc
12) Soda Ash, PH UP: http://youtu.be/xbN4h1WTm2U
13) Alkalinity UP, Baking Soda: http://youtu.be/76wQeC4k-hc
14) Muriatic Acid, pH Down: http://youtu.be/HN11nOOCvG4
15) Basic Swimming Pool Care: http://youtu.be/utWnf7EqxT0
16) Cloudy Pool Water, Causes and Cures: http://youtu.be/R2of9Kg8PV4
17) Swimtrine Plus Algaecide (Copper based): http://youtu.be/I2Mgp4VJqyA
18) Taylor Test Kit (K-1006 - K-2150): http://youtu.be/AMe0rJJli8A
19) How To Test & Adjust Calcium Hardness in a Pool : http://youtu.be/qArcEmqMUKo
Liquid Chlorine Pool Sanitizer: http://youtu.be/NqJsuCqH42w
Pool Shock, Cal Hypo: http://youtu.be/Gk_7olejkwM
Trichlor 3" Chlorinating Tablets: http://youtu.be/mq58LXe0v-4
Dichlor Pool Sanitizer: http://youtu.be/E_gzrF1xORg
Kem-Tek Super Shock Quick, Trichlor Shock: http://youtu.be/-yFD2C5htQQ
SALT WATER POOL CARE:
Salt Water Pool Care, Part One- Overview & Chemistry: http://youtu.be/rUh2kVZJYgc
Salt Water Pool Care, Part Two - Adding salt: http://youtu.be/QjrwYWdenhY
I use this kit everyday, it is very accurate and an inexpensive way to test chemicals in a pool. The test strips are much too expensive to use on 20 accounts per day and I think the OTO test kit with the bright colors is much easier to read. It allows you to test the Free and Combined Chlorine, PH, Acid Demand and Alkalinity.
It comes in a nice blue case that is super durable, I take mine out many times a day and I can usually go about 2 years before the hinge breaks off. To get the most accurate reading you need to use the white insert as shown in the video.
Please note that very high chlorine levels, 5.0 or higher (will be very dark orange/red as opposed to yellow) will give you inaccurate Alkalinity readings. Wait until the chlorine level drops down then retest or add 3-4 drops of solution 4 (chlorine neutralizer).
Here is just a video explaining how to test your pool water. It covers, Free chlorine, PH, Acid Demand and alkalinity.
After the alkalinity & pH are brought into range, the next adjustment is the sanitizer. Chlorine is the most common and least expensive of the available sanitizers. The acceptable range is 1.5 - 3 ppm, though 4 - 5 ppm is absolutely fine. A commercial spa should be maintained at much higher levels - 5 - 6 ppm.
A residential pool should be maintained at 3.0 ppm. The higher levels ( 4 - 5 ppm) should be established, prior to a large party or heat spell. Try not to allow the levels to drop below 3 ppm, as this will prevent the need to shock or take other corrective action after the party.
There are a number of factors that contribute to the "balance of the water." The most important are the pH and the alkalinity. The alkalinity is the ability of the water to buffer the pH (or buffer chemicals that may effect the pH). The alkalinity is like an auto-pilot or cruise-control for the pH.
If the alkalinity is out of the acceptable range, then any small factor will cause a wild swing in the pH. This is called "pH bounce." Because of this, the alkalinity is the first thing that should be brought into line when balancing the water.
An ideal range for the alkalinity is 100-120 ppm (though 80 - 140 ppm is acceptable).
The pH of the water, determines if it is acidic or basic. Either extreme can have disastrous effects on the pool finish, equipment, or plumbing. When the pH is out of range, bathers may complain of eye discomfort or other ailments.
An acidic pH will cause the water to become aggressive. It will etch the plaster and cement finishes around the pool. Worse yet, it will dissolve the metallic components of the pool. The most expensive metallic component is the copper heat exchanger within the pool heater.
The ideal range for the pH is 7.4 - 7.6 (though 7.2 - 7.8 is acceptable).
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