Pool Test Kit, 5-way. Poolmaster 22260 5-way test kit

RELATED VIDEOS:
1) Aquachek & HTH Test Strips: http://youtu.be/hHhabkd5A0s
2) For chemicals to use in your pool see this video: http://youtu.be/eZeqg2O4hJo
3) To calculate your pool volume (how many gallons): http://youtu.be/ybenKQ1Z5dQ
4) To learn about Conditioner: http://youtu.be/OLDVjtL2NcQ
5) Shocktrine: Burning eyes and cloudy water: http://youtu.be/RY40vgJo6Nc
6) For Black Algae Treatment: http://youtu.be/qga1ZxU6m6U
7) For removing Yellow & Mustard Algae: http://youtu.be/mrZqMCiGtnc
8) For GREEN pool clean-up: http://youtu.be/ydIysBIHhWo
9) For Fiberglass Spa chemicals: http://youtu.be/nYAJBWKxMPs
10) Chemicals for Colored Plaster, Vinyl, Fiberglass pools http://youtu.be/aUGlDfzQAiM
11) For High Alkalinity, how to lower Alkalinity: http://youtu.be/dD7B3QzCNdc
12) Soda Ash, PH UP: http://youtu.be/xbN4h1WTm2U
13) Alkalinity UP, Baking Soda: http://youtu.be/76wQeC4k-hc
14) Muriatic Acid, pH Down: http://youtu.be/HN11nOOCvG4
15) Basic Swimming Pool Care: http://youtu.be/utWnf7EqxT0
16) Cloudy Pool Water, Causes and Cures: http://youtu.be/R2of9Kg8PV4
17) Swimtrine Plus Algaecide (Copper based): http://youtu.be/I2Mgp4VJqyA
18) Taylor Test Kit (K-1006 - K-2150): http://youtu.be/AMe0rJJli8A
19) How To Test & Adjust Calcium Hardness in a Pool : http://youtu.be/qArcEmqMUKo

SANITIZERS:
Liquid Chlorine Pool Sanitizer: http://youtu.be/NqJsuCqH42w
Pool Shock, Cal Hypo: http://youtu.be/Gk_7olejkwM
Trichlor 3" Chlorinating Tablets: http://youtu.be/mq58LXe0v-4
Dichlor Pool Sanitizer: http://youtu.be/E_gzrF1xORg
Kem-Tek Super Shock Quick, Trichlor Shock: http://youtu.be/-yFD2C5htQQ

SALT WATER POOL CARE:
Salt Water Pool Care, Part One- Overview & Chemistry: http://youtu.be/rUh2kVZJYgc
Salt Water Pool Care, Part Two - Adding salt: http://youtu.be/QjrwYWdenhY

NOTES:
I use this kit everyday, it is very accurate and an inexpensive way to test chemicals in a pool. The test strips are much too expensive to use on 20 accounts per day and I think the OTO test kit with the bright colors is much easier to read. It allows you to test the Free and Combined Chlorine, PH, Acid Demand and Alkalinity.

It comes in a nice blue case that is super durable, I take mine out many times a day and I can usually go about 2 years before the hinge breaks off. To get the most accurate reading you need to use the white insert as shown in the video.

Please note that very high chlorine levels, 5.0 or higher (will be very dark orange/red as opposed to yellow) will give you inaccurate Alkalinity readings. Wait until the chlorine level drops down then retest or add 3-4 drops of solution 4 (chlorine neutralizer).

Here is just a video explaining how to test your pool water. It covers, Free chlorine, PH, Acid Demand and alkalinity.


Sanitizer

After the alkalinity & pH are brought into range, the next adjustment is the sanitizer. Chlorine is the most common and least expensive of the available sanitizers. The acceptable range is 1.5 - 3 ppm, though 4 - 5 ppm is absolutely fine. A commercial spa should be maintained at much higher levels - 5 - 6 ppm.

A residential pool should be maintained at 3.0 ppm. The higher levels ( 4 - 5 ppm) should be established, prior to a large party or heat spell. Try not to allow the levels to drop below 3 ppm, as this will prevent the need to shock or take other corrective action after the party.

ALKALINITY

There are a number of factors that contribute to the "balance of the water." The most important are the pH and the alkalinity. The alkalinity is the ability of the water to buffer the pH (or buffer chemicals that may effect the pH). The alkalinity is like an auto-pilot or cruise-control for the pH.

If the alkalinity is out of the acceptable range, then any small factor will cause a wild swing in the pH. This is called "pH bounce." Because of this, the alkalinity is the first thing that should be brought into line when balancing the water.

An ideal range for the alkalinity is 100-120 ppm (though 80 - 140 ppm is acceptable).

pH 7.4-7.6

The pH of the water, determines if it is acidic or basic. Either extreme can have disastrous effects on the pool finish, equipment, or plumbing. When the pH is out of range, bathers may complain of eye discomfort or other ailments.

An acidic pH will cause the water to become aggressive. It will etch the plaster and cement finishes around the pool. Worse yet, it will dissolve the metallic components of the pool. The most expensive metallic component is the copper heat exchanger within the pool heater.

The ideal range for the pH is 7.4 - 7.6 (though 7.2 - 7.8 is acceptable).

• Category

  Education

[zorkminer]

Great videos, thanks for sharing! One quick question about the PH test. In this video PH was about 8.0 and only needed 2 drops of solution 3 to bring PH down to 7.4. I have the same test, but at 7.8 PH I had to add 5 drops of solution 3 to get a 7.4 result! Does this mean my reagents are old?

[MrDgvb1]

Maybe, but I think there are other factors that determine this - the alkalinity level is probably a factor here also.

[Dino Orlando]

I'm watching all your Videos. I'm your #1 Fan!!! You have helped me a lot. No bad smell at all. Water looks & smells good. I'm going strictly Bleach & Liquid Chlorine from now on, if I can afford it, since my CYA is 133. I'm seeing a little Algae by Steps & Ladders though. I need to Shock it! Question: How many gallons of regular strength Bleach will it take to Shock a 28,000 Gallon Pool? 5, 6, 8, 10??? I'm going to invest in Clorox! :-)

[MrDgvb1]

I would use liquid chlorine from your local Mom & Pop pool store. Usually it is the HASA brand and is about 16% active chlorine or so. It is also the freshest chlorine since the small pool stores tend to rotate their stock and use it on their own pool routes. Just buy it by the case and exchange the empties. That is your best bet. With your conditioner level the liquid chlorine should hold up well. I say this thinking you live near civilization - I have some people who live in the Boondocks ;)

[Dino Orlando]

Thanks. Yea that's why I intend on doing. Bleach is only 5.7 % Chlorine from Dollar Store. I think Concentrated Clorox is 8%. So back to my question. How many gallons to Shock a 28000 Gallon Pool that has a 133 CYA? I just want to have an idea. I put 3 Gallons in last night & still have Algae growth by Stairs & Ladders. Thanks again for your expertise!

[MrDgvb1]

What is your chlorine reading? If it is 3.0 or higher you just have aggressive chlorine resistant algae. There are some tricks in that case. You can add Yellowtrine or Yellow Treat directly over the spot - one capful and pour 1 gallon of chlorine directly on top of it. This should kill it. If you have a white plaster pool then you can sprinkle HASA Algi-ban on top - but don't let it pile up in one spot or it will burn the plaster. That should work.

[MrDgvb1]

The only drawback with Cal Hypo is that they could raise your pools calcium hardness if you don't keep an eye on the pH. I have a video on my Channel on Cal-hypo and I posted the amount of acid you will need to add to neutralize the effect of Cal Hypo. It won't be a problem if you keep an eye on your pH. It is the only shock without conditioner.

[MrDgvb1]

It can add calcium hardness to your pool - especially in a salt pool. But if you keep an eye on your pH it is not a deal breaker. I have a video on it. Are you smelling Chloramines around your pool - amonia smell due to high Conditioner levels or is the high level just bugging you?

[Dino Orlando]

Wow you made me feel better. I read that you will get more Algae blooms & have to use almost 4X as more Chlorine just to Shock it.

[Dino Orlando]

Well guess Melamine won't work for me because I do have a Sand Filter. That stinks! :-) That would have been a much easier fix than Draining half my pool water. So they make Cal Hypo in Tabs also. Isn't there a downside even to Cal Hypo? I hear it adds Hardness to water.