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Head Gasket repair HD - Time Lapse

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Uploaded by on May 10, 2009

Rate and Comment!!!! This is a video of a 6.0lit, coolant loss diagnosis that led to cylinder head gasket failure. Diagnosis found coolant pressure rising causing coolant loss, using pressure vacuum transducer on cooling system pressure. Repair hours to complete took 15.5 hours. Time lapsed to be within 10 min limit. No soundtrack to infringe with youttube audioswap. Thanks for watching and please leave comments and rating!

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Uploader Comments (srmastertech)

  • Really awesome video. Any details on how to do the drivers side bolt where the cab needs to be raised?

  • @mannasteve I have other videos that show the cab removal. I just uploaded part 1 showing head bolts without cab removal.

  • I read that you take the cab off for ARP headstuds and it sounds very reasonable. I have also read that the stud can be inserted in the head (really only the ones at the firewall) while it is out of the truck and held in the head with a ziptie. They then lower in the head in, cut the ziptie off, and screw in the head stud. Have you ever tried this? If not, do you think it is possible? Seems like a good option for those without a lift. Your experienced opinion would be appreciated.

  • @Ironpuha

    You can install the studs like this, but you are still going to have to raise the cab about 6 inches on the drivers side. You will be able to install the stud and nut, the problem happens when you are not able to get any socket, not to mention a torque wrench onto the driver rear, lower stud. It is hard to reach, even on OEM, and the stud uses a larger nut. If you lift the drivers side and use block to support the cab, it can be done.

  • Jesus Christ thoose heads are huge..Big ole 6.0 I guess

  • @Splinterblood

    They are big and heavy, just enough to make it awkward!

Video Responses

This video is a response to 1989 Mazda MX-6 F2 Head Gasket Time Lapse
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All Comments (159)

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  • At this dealer they will not even let me talk to the tech, is this normal? When I told the mgr I pulled the EGR and found it moist he got real nervous after saying it was dry. I think I need to pull the EGR valve for them and ask what I am seeing. I am almost out of warranty for this emissions equipment and feel a little blown off. Thank you so much for all your videos and help. p.s. Any chance of lowering the tranny to tilt the motor to get the socket on the stud at drivers side? Thanks again.

  • The local dealer is pressure testing the coolant system over night. I was told by the service mgr that they do not think I have a leaking EGR cooler and the intake and EGR valve to be dry.I pulled the EGR the day before I took it in and the soot is moist, almost like grease or oily when I stick my finger in the intake. I am only losing about 1-2 qt for 5,000 miles with only 65K on the truck. I figure the only way for the soot under the EGR valve to get moist is coolant. Early failure? Opinion?

  • This isn't really what I would call a do it yourself job (DIY)! Certainly have an appreciation for mechanics when it comes to hard repairs like this.

  • I read that you did headstuds with the cab off, a very reasonable repair method. I have also read that someone could insert the headstuds (closest to firewall) and retain it with a ziptie, then lower the heads in and cut the ziptie and screw the headstud into the block. With your experience, does this seem possible or have you done it? I may do studs after the dealer fixes my EGR cooler, am considering asking for studs while they fix the EGR cooler and are in there. Thanks

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