Portable Snowmobile Loading Ramp

Basically You build a 2x4 frame in the bed of the truck. A 1/2" (or 3/4" whatever you want. I have the 1/2" just to see if it would last) 4x8 sheet goes on top of that frame. The "ramp" needs to be a minimum thickness of a 3/4" 4x8 sheet that MUST BE REINFORCED with either 2x4's or 2x6's on the top side (to keep from bending/snapping in the middle if your sled stalls out and to keep you from driving off the edge when loading it). The "ramp" has a couple of eyelets in the corners. You use those eyelets for tie-downs to the truck to keep the ramp from sliding off the tail gate when you give the sled some gas. Once the sled is run up the ramp and is sitting on the 1/2" 4x8 sheet that is on top of the 2x4 frame in the bed of the truck, you unhook the tiedowns and grab the handle on the end (end on the ground) of the ramp and slide the ramp in under the 2x4 frame. You can have your sled loaded and the ramp put away in about 1 minute. Then you use the tie downs on the rear of your sled to secure it.

I have $47 in receipts building this ramp. I had a couple of parts lying around, but had to buy the 4x8 sheets, the 8 ft. 2x4's and the hardware. It was nearly $7 for a box of 2 1/2 inch deck screws.I had the tie-downs and some 2x4's and the 2x6's for the truck bed frame.

I wanted a ramp that I could store somewhere in the bed of the truck. So I thought, 'Why don't I raise up the sled (with the 2x4 frame) and slide the ramp under the sled?' I tried it and it works great. The eyelets that you put in the ramp need to have a flat back to them so that the ramp slides in easily. I used carriage bolts and 3 links of chain for my eyelets that my tie downs connect to. It works great and I don't need anyone to help me load my sled anywhere I go, I get good gas mileage because I don't have to haul a trailer and my sled doens't get any salt/crap on it from the road. I don't even have to put a cover on it.

The only drawback, if you can call it one, is that you don't have much room for error with the 4 ft wide ramp. You have to have it lined up good and go up the ramp at about a jogging speed. I havn't gone off the side with it, but you do have to make sure you are lined up good before you head up the ramp. If you have a wide front end on your sled, it may not be wide enough for you. I have a 2000 ZRT and it works great.

If you used it for a dirt bike, you could cut slots in the 4x8 sheet in the bed of the truck for the tire to fit into and have eyelets in the 2x4 frame that you could use to tie the front end down with. Customize it for your own application. I just hope I can help a few people out there create a ramp for their application that doesn't cost much and works well.

List of parts needed:
1-4x8 1/2inch sheet
1-4x8 3/4inch sheet
2 ½ inch Deck screws
2-carriage bolts long enough to go through the 1/2inch board and whatever you use for the eyelets
4-washers for the carriage bolts.
2-lock nuts for the carriage bolts
2-eyelets. I used 3 links of chain
4-2x4's (or you could use 2x6's). 2 for the 4x8 sheet in the bed of the truck and 2 for the ramp
Some sort of traction device for the ramp. I cut 2x4's and used them.
Enough 2x4's (or 2x6's) to make the frame for the truck bed
4 joining plates (like the one used on a truss) for the truck bed frame. I was going to use one on both sides, but one per/side seems to be enough
1-garage door style handle for the end of the ramp

Category:

Autos & Vehicles

Tags:

• ramp
• loading
• snowmobile
• motorcycle
• or
• four
• wheeler
• into
• truck
• bed
• Portable
• Home
• Made

[jaysay001]

blaine

thanks so much for posting this video... I've looked at lots of designs and see most use a center stringer in truck base.... which then requires a two piece ramp making it more complicated. without a center stinger I'd assume the truck base would sag, therefore not allow the "ramp" to slide under... any problems like that? how much does it sag? is your truck "base" still 1/2" osb? has it survived all these years unpainted? thanks. -jay

[BlaineDP]

With the frame I put together for the top sheet to lay on, there is no sag. the only place you'll see a little sag will be the 2x4 that goes across the width on the very rear of the truck. You may have to make the rear of the frame just a touch taller so the ramp can slide under it. After about 5 years I swapped out the OSB for a sheet of plywood. The OSB was being torn up from the skis getting on and off. My plan is just a general idea...feel free to modify it to your specific applicaiton.

[MurrayGable]

Thats great Blaine! Appreciate you taking the time to do that. I am building one today.

[BlaineDP]

Cool..have fun with it. I've used my design for about 4 or 5 years now without really changing anything and it works great. It is nice to know you can go anywhere by yourself and not need anyone to help you load it up. It is a nice "putter" job...i.e. it isn't hard to do, no tight spaces to work in, doens't take a long time, it doesn't have to be perfect. Glad to help you out.

[mayhem4u224]

Hey Blaine, here is a question, I am worried that my tailgate might be higher which would cause a incline issue. Do you know how high yours is, just to caluclate if it would work for me prior to building it.

[BlaineDP]

My current tailgate is 32 1/2 inches high. You could be higher and still be ok but if someone had a big lift kit on a truck...well you may be out of luck. I know you can go higher with the angle but if you do you will have to watch out for the sled pushing the ramp like I mention in the video.

[BlaineDP]

19 foot V-nose for one sled???...what a pampered sled you must have! LOL...glad to help out. Build away, customize it to your needs and have fun with it.

[mayhem4u224]

Great video! I have been looking into this idea and you already did it. With fuel prices, pulling a 19 foot v nose with one sled inside was such a waste. Thanks!!

[BlaineDP]

Genius? At least now I have it in writing so I can show it to my wife...lol. Have fun building it and modifying it to your needs. Like I stated several times in other comments: This is just a basic design and guys can change, modify, customize ect...to their own situation. I now have a crew cab with a shorter box so I had to cut the frame shorter along with the 4x8 piece that goes on top and narrow it at the rear. The ramp is still 4x8 and everything works great.

[blak8819]

Moment of clarity and realizing this guy is a genius: 6:35.