Diesel on WVO/SVO

Here is a demo of the Vegetable Oil conversion that I installed on my truck.

Category:

Autos & Vehicles

Tags:

• WVO
• SVO
• VO
• Vegetable
• Oil
• Conversion
• Waste
• Diesel
• Chevy
• GMC
• 6.5L
• Turbo

[steelraptor]

O yeah hey man back again! But where and what kinda valves did you use to switch the fuels? I just got a 100 gallon tank and a used greascar kit for 600$ =p and will probably use a hotfox pickup and a flatplate exchange to get the oil hot. My problem is finding good quality parts to build the rest of the missing system parts that's all.

[JonathanErber]

Hey there! I used two valves, one was a Pallock 6way valve (for fuel supply and a Greasecar 3way for return. I'm pretty sure this is different than the greasecar setup, because I use my Pallock valve so that when I am on Diesel, the WVO system is able to loop up through the engine compartment and get heated, and then dump back in the WVO tank (helping to warm the tank). And when I'm on WVO, the valve also controls a relay that shuts the Diesel lift pump off. Does that make sense?

[steelraptor]

hmm have you had any issues with the pallock valve? Sooo many people on forums scream that that valve will fail/leak/ and cross contaminate fuels. Have you had any issues yet with it? I was thinking of just rocking with 2 3 way valves and ditch the pallock, but the valve is very simple which I really like.

[JonathanErber]

Those tanks are great! And think of the oil in cold temperatures like crystallized honey. It'll flow a little, but not much. So all you need to do is heat the space right around where you're going to put your fuel pickup, and you're set. Once the oil gets sucked up the fuel lines it gets heated much hotter, so no problems then. I just have a copper pipe 'U' going down to the bottom of the tank. No problems with that even at -30 degrees.

[steelraptor]

Man I want to do the same thing to my 2000 6.5. Too bad I blew a rod and waiting on a long block. But besides do you know if any of the 100 gallon toolbox tank combos are any good to work with? Is it hard to install a heater inside of them?

[JonathanErber]

Also, I'd scrap the glow plug heater that I have in this video for a Flat Plate heat exchanger. Seriously, way better and worth the money. Also scrap the fuel pressure regulator unless you can find one that the WVO won't eat.

[JonathanErber]

I've got about 20,000 on my new conversion and it's happy as a clam! No signs of stopping, and I recently took it on a 1800mi cross country trip no problems. I love WVO! :)

[JonathanErber]

The added pressure messes with the inside of the IP and you actually ends up advancing your timing, which is actually quite nice until the IP blows (which according to Stanadyne it most likely will). So anything over 12 psi should be dealt with ASAP. Still not sure what to do here. But other than that, make sure you're able to purge your system well after shutting off and it seems really healthy.

[JonathanErber]

I may have also had some dirty oil, but that closed loop system definitely needed to go. The main problem that I'm having right now is getting consistant fuel pressure. My pump is a ProComp Black pump with a fuel pressure setting at 9 psi. It doesn't stay at 9 psi though, it jumps anywhere from 9 psi to 25 psi. :/ Also NOT GOOD! You do not want to over run your pump with fuel pressure like that.

[JonathanErber]

Well there are a few main things that can blow your IP. Bad oil obviously, but assuming you've got great oil the things to watch out for is a proper fuel pressure (4-9 psi), hot oil, and virtually no back pressure on the return line of the IP. The problem with my first setup is that the return line was set up as a closed loop system in front of the pump, consequently ending up with equal pressure on both sides of the pump. Not good!