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Some tips to help your wooden gear clock keep ticking.

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Uploaded by on Apr 14, 2009

Plans available at Clayton Boyers site, http://www.lisaboyer.com/Claytonsite/Claytonsite1.htm I am in no way an expert, This is an ongoing process and I am still finding out things about the clocks all the time. I recently had to try and slow my clock down it was going too fast, so I added more and more weight to the pendulum bob trying to slow it down, {adding double the weight usually is a bad sign that something's not right, } I checked other you tube pages of the same clock and saw where I went wrong, I had to remake the number six escape wheel and pallets, that helped the clock slow down and my pendulum bob is back to it's proper weight, the number 6 is happly ticking properly now. I am still tweaking her after 3 months of making it. Thats the fun of this hobby. you learn a lot more than you think.

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Uploader Comments (jointheclubsmellypan)

  • thanks for the video. I'm putting together the Balance clock at the moment and after going back and super polishing the arbors and buffing the gear teeth as you did, it's running very clean and doesn't randomly stop like it used to. I was also able to drop 1.7lb from the weight.

  • That's great!! it's just the little things that will stop the clock, I find that if that it is usually arounf the escape wheel problems tend to crop up. Tinkering is part of the fun.

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  • haha. 'the workshop light-pull...ooooeeee'

    Thanks for the tips!

  • Early American wooden clock makers found that gears with forward inclined gear teeth tend to move more freely.

  • "Instead of fluffy dice, a clock gear!" I hate those fluffy dices.

    Paint the coasters with brass color, wallah! A steam-punk coasters!

    Loved your Goof Ups idea. Hilarious but genius!

  • Great tips and beautiful clock. I am a gear freak and am just getting starting in CNC routing.

  • great new video. i enjoy your tips and humor. i made the #6 Boyer clock and your 4 part video was immensely helpful. C'mon, i'm waiting for your next build and video.

  • Nope just make sure that your hole is clean and clear of saw dust. Some people do drill out the back of the arbor hole and put bearings in or other material to help reduce friction, I don't do that, So If you have used good quality HSS brad point drill bits that will cut a nice clean hole you should be ok.

  • do you do anything to lubricate the arbors in the frame, besides the crayon?

  • The Arbors are fixed in the gear wheel through friction, but they spin freely in the drilled holes in the wooden frame

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