Great job! Really want to build one similar to yours.
You mentioned using 1.5" x 1.5" square steel tubing for the main structural frame member, the one that runs horizontally between the bottom bracket in the front, and the chain stays in the rear.
Do you happen to recall what wall thickness the tubing was? Was it 0.065"? I want to make sure it's strong enough, but I don't want to go overboard and make it any heavier than necessary.
@homba It looks like it's been a while, but I would also recommend a drag brake if you're going to be doing a lot of downhill.
But if you're hitting those speeds frequently, you might want some Avid BB7s so that if you *do* happen to over heat your disc brakes, you don't have to worry about fluid boiling. The BB7s are mechanical, but i have them on both my road and mountain bikes and they're very solid (it's probably a lot easier to run a long cable than a long fluid hose, too).
Believe it or not, I can easily hit 32-34 mph on the flat as-is. I run out of gearing before anything else. I was pushing 45-50 downhill, but it's pretty frightening and the brakes won't stop you quick (they kind-of melt at those speeds) - needs disc brakes for that.
Lighter wheels would be nice, but the 27" wheels I have aren't too bad and they're a little taller than 700c. Also, I have 100psi low rolling resistance slicks, which make a huge difference.
I would put a flag and some reflectors on and wear a full face, and haul some serious ass on it. Build one out of a classic 80s-90s bike with modern 700c type wheels and tires, and PowerGrips pedals, I bet you can do 30mph on it.
You would be shocked at what a difference lighter wheels and better construction tires will make.
Also ... Make strong seat brackets. That's from personal experience. It's no fun having your seat bend out from under you while cranking around a corner - sparky!
Oh, and make/buy fenders. This bike shoots grit down your back without them.
Pay attention to the little details - cable management, lighting. You have the opportunity to do it right. I have some really cool integrated lighting and storage that you couldn't do on a store bought bike. Don't get discouraged when things slow way down after the frame is together. The devil is in the details.
Dear homba,
Re: the steel tubing wall thickness, never mind.
I just noticed the link to your other webpage, where you note that you used 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8" square steel tubing.
thechinadesk 10 months ago
Dear homba,
Also, I forgot to ask. Was the 1.5" x 1.5" square steel tubing mild steel? A36? You didn't mention it, so I'm guessing it was.
thechinadesk 10 months ago
Dear homba,
Great job! Really want to build one similar to yours.
You mentioned using 1.5" x 1.5" square steel tubing for the main structural frame member, the one that runs horizontally between the bottom bracket in the front, and the chain stays in the rear.
Do you happen to recall what wall thickness the tubing was? Was it 0.065"? I want to make sure it's strong enough, but I don't want to go overboard and make it any heavier than necessary.
Thanks in advance for the help!
thechinadesk 10 months ago
@homba It looks like it's been a while, but I would also recommend a drag brake if you're going to be doing a lot of downhill.
But if you're hitting those speeds frequently, you might want some Avid BB7s so that if you *do* happen to over heat your disc brakes, you don't have to worry about fluid boiling. The BB7s are mechanical, but i have them on both my road and mountain bikes and they're very solid (it's probably a lot easier to run a long cable than a long fluid hose, too).
Dig the bike!
EpicureMammon 1 year ago
wow... those really are LOOOONNNGG wheelbase designs. Does your son love his bike?
dregerclock 2 years ago
Believe it or not, I can easily hit 32-34 mph on the flat as-is. I run out of gearing before anything else. I was pushing 45-50 downhill, but it's pretty frightening and the brakes won't stop you quick (they kind-of melt at those speeds) - needs disc brakes for that.
Lighter wheels would be nice, but the 27" wheels I have aren't too bad and they're a little taller than 700c. Also, I have 100psi low rolling resistance slicks, which make a huge difference.
homba 3 years ago
I would put a flag and some reflectors on and wear a full face, and haul some serious ass on it. Build one out of a classic 80s-90s bike with modern 700c type wheels and tires, and PowerGrips pedals, I bet you can do 30mph on it.
You would be shocked at what a difference lighter wheels and better construction tires will make.
stopglobalswarming 3 years ago
Sounds like a great trip - have fun and good luck!
homba 4 years ago
Also ... Make strong seat brackets. That's from personal experience. It's no fun having your seat bend out from under you while cranking around a corner - sparky!
Oh, and make/buy fenders. This bike shoots grit down your back without them.
homba 4 years ago
Pay attention to the little details - cable management, lighting. You have the opportunity to do it right. I have some really cool integrated lighting and storage that you couldn't do on a store bought bike. Don't get discouraged when things slow way down after the frame is together. The devil is in the details.
homba 4 years ago