Combining Strobes and Reflectors: A Lighting Tutorial

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Uploaded by on Jan 10, 2012

By Jay P. Morgan
I enjoy using reflectors when shooting on location but I find it's a bit restrictive. There are many things that can be done with a couple of reflectors alone but so many more options open up when you just add one strobe head. In this follow-up to last week's lesson on "Reflectors", The Slanted Lens will take a look at using one strobe head in addition to our reflectors. This is the way I like to shoot on location. With a couple of reflectors and a portable strobe unit I can better control the lighting situations I may face on location. When the sun does not cooperate, the strobe does. It's there as a fail safe for whatever situation I may be in. I love the look. Let's look at using strobes with reflectors. Good luck and keep on click'n! Jay P. Morgan
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Uploader Comments (TheSlantedLens)

  • Which tamron lens is that? Does anybody know.

  • @a3180044 Its the Tamron AF18-270mm f/3.5-6.3 Di II

  • Nice video. Could you please explain the camera settings? Why not use max sync speed of 1/200 and lower the aperture from f/20 to f/16 or something. Is it because of depth of field? And why are you using ISO 160 and not 100?

    I don't mean to be rude, but that's how I'd shoot it in the middle of the day. Thanks in advance.

  • @vcbabis Thanks it was fun to make. The Canon manual states "The camera can synchronize with non-Canon compact flash units at 1/200 of a sec. and slower speeds. with large studio flash units, since the flash duration is longer, set the sync speed to 1/60 sec. to 1/30 sec." I have shoot faster than 1/60 but at times depending on the power of the strobe it will start to darken the image.

  • When I am working fast Its not worth the risk of shooting at faster speeds with a large power pack. I use ISO 160 because its the native speed for the 5D and 7D and gives cleaner blacks than 100 ISO. 160, 320, 640, 1250, are all native speeds and give less digital noise than the speeds in between. Cheers

  • Very awesome tutorial. I have a question,

    In your second setup where the sun is the main-light, and the strobe is the rim light.

    What is the metering reading for the strobe power?

    i.e. the sun will give give you a meter reading of f/22. What about the strobe?

    And as a more general question, how much power do you need? (Is this related to light ratios?)

  • @Dikaiosune02 Thanks I'm glade that you like it. In the shot of Liz on the tanker truck the sun was giving me a reading of about f18 and the strobe was giving a reading of f14. The shutter speed was set at 1/100 sec. The sun was lower by this time and a bit softer. I use a 1200 watt second pack on location. I use a range of power settings depending on what we are doing. Thanks

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  • Hey,

    I just wanted to ask where this location is?

    I absolutely LOVE it and would love to shoot there :)

  • putting dirt on the nikon? :-(

  • @vcbabis As for shutter-speed, my guess is that he was happy with the exposure of the background - going to 1/200th would have brought the background exposure down by a stop - opening the aperture up by a stop to compensate would have also had the effect of overexposing the flash - so, his option was to either go to 1/100th, or drop the flash power and shoot and 1/200th - So, he chose to simply rotate a dial on his camera instead of futzing with the flash head.

  • @SpoASU Sorry about that. It's actually desert dust and it's on the lens. I'm like a gorilla style maniac when I shoot and sometimes things get freaky. You know how Jay P is with his employees, quit trying to get me fired. JK Actually, Jay P. Morgan is amazing to work with, just so everyone knows. He's a really good man, and an amazing artist. Keep watching the videos! And like them on facebook so we can keep these coming. The next video is coming soon and is going to be amazing!

  • Seems to be lot's of crap on the sensor :(

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