Greenspit - Valle Orco - Torino

Didier Berthod sale Greenspit (8b+) in redpoint. Location: Rosone (Locana - TO). Well done Didier!
La fessura era già stata salita negli anni 80 per metà lunghezza dalla guida locale Roberto Perrucca, con 3 spit in posto.
In seguito, nel 2001, Giampiero Dematteis e Gianmario Bellini l'avevano richiodata con 5 spit, testimoniando l'abbandono della linea.
Nell'agosto 2003, lo svizzero Didier Berthod, scendendo in auto con il fratello Cyrille da una giornata trascorsa in valle, ha visto la fila di 5 spit brillare al sole, si è fermato e ha deciso di salire a dare un'occhiata.
Il giorno stesso Didier si è innamorato della fessura, ha tolto tutti gli spit, mettendone uno solo sopra il bordo della cengia e ha provato i movimenti proteggendosi solo con i friend.
Il 14 settembre Didier ne ha realizzato la prima RP, valutandolo 8b+, anche se pochi sono i riferimenti europei, soprattutto in stile trad come questo, per le vie dure in pura fessura.
Oggi Didier non arrampica più e vive in una comunità religiosa in Svizzera (agosto 2006).

Category:

Sports

Tags:

• Trad
• Climbing
• valle
• orco
• rosone
• torino
• locana
• gran
• paradiso
• piantonetto
• crack
• climbing
• fessura
• greenspit
• roberto perucca
• didier berthod
• giampiero dematteis
• gianmario bellini
• rock
• ceresole
• noasca
• cuorgnè
• bolt
• spit
• onsight
• redpoint

[xXjamie05Xx]

any ideas on a grade?

[GMonsters]

5.14 or little more...

[jc6669]

what song is this?

[GMonsters]

the title is "how it ends" by Devotchka. i think this song is perfect for this video! :)

[GaiaMind]

If you do the FA of a route, you determine the style. Even though the crack was bolted, it hadn't seen a first ascent so he had every right to chop the bolts and send it on gear for the FA.

[cjdrover]

Perhaps, but let me play Devil's Advocate and ask if the bolter had the right to install the bolts in the first place?

[markus122piesuckers]

Wait so what's the deal, what are bolts used for? Why does Didier hate them?

[DadyDollaz19]

anyone know the song in this?

[DadyDollaz19]

@xXjamie05Xx like a 5.15

[MohammadX101]

unfortunately these guys don't even qualify to come anywhere near the rock that they realy should be climbing. they eventaully get tired of climbing these sand dunes and return home to watch the real climbers for excitement.

some of them may even keep up with the progress of the real climbers through their cell phones, while climbing, for the real excitement.

good work boys and girls but it takes more

[GaiaMind]

@gerardo231 there is never a reason to bolt a crack that protects with gear. There are so many routes out in the world you can sport climb with only draws and a rope. It is a really beautiful thing to walk up to a wall, and not see a single sign of human impact.

[captainjackward]

@thegibsonfromhell

Actually a good stone mason can restore the rock to nearly looking perfect. Its been done before on routes where bolts have been chopped.

[antoineouistit]

so beautiful video, too bad it isn't in HD :D

[gerardo231]

@HosteDenis some people dont do trad climbing...gear is expensive and it is more dangerous. you should let everybody enjoy climbing a crack not nesecarilly climbing on trad

[levelboy]

@GMonsters exactly my thought

[uncleStone92]

@xXjamie05Xx 8b+